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Laurel Mountain Forge rust browning with humidity box?

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I use a humidity box , 10" wide , by 6 " high , by 60" long , hinged on one long side like a clam shell. . Put a couple damp pcs. of cloth inside , barrel supported on the bottom side on a couple wood blocks. This is the kicker...... Wearing clean cotton gloves to keep skin oiI off the steel , I ascoriate the exterior with a super fine bristle wire wheel mounted on a regular 8" bench grinder , always lightly brushing longways with the flats. This totally eliminates the need to degrease the steel. Steel wool has oil in it , so I quit using it in any browning process. 20+ years ago , I bought a carton (case) of R. E. Davis browning solution , and only use it 'cause I don't want to waste it. I think most browning solutions would work using this option. Also , one application is usually all it takes , over night for a smooth look . For a lightly pitted look , two apps. , and and an extra over nighter does it. Light carding sometimes might be desired for an old , but less scally appearance. Rinse the barrel under a water fawcet once removed from the box to stop the browning process , and dry with a heat gun Once pleased with the look , apply black wax , oil , or whatever rust preventative you wish.
 
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I use a humidity box with a light bulb, wet rags, wires to hold the barrel, and trays to hold small parts in the winter or colder weather. I've never done one in the summer. I used the solution from TOW last 2 times and way back when, Wahkon Bay. In my last job I didn't let it go long so my parts look worn after carding.
 
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