Can't stop the rust

[GregC]

Okay - why can't I stop the rust?

I just browned my barrel, trigger guard, and screws with LMF. I got a great brown in about 3 coats over 4 days. Carded between 1st and 2nd applications.

When done I scrubbed with baking soda and warm water. I made a thick paste and scrubbed every inch of the parts with a toothbrush. After reading some of the comments on here I then added a scrubbing with amonia to further make sure I killed all the rust. Heated the parts and coated with motor oil. Let sit for a day. Found the parts had continued to rust despite my best efforts. So, I re-scrubbed everthing with baking soda then rinsed then amonia again. Dried everthing with a hair dryer then coated liberally with Hoppes Gun Oil. This was 4 days ago.. No every evening and every mornign the parts are rusted again as evidenced by flakes. I keep oiling and oiling and every time I wipe the parts they are rough and brown gritty stuff comes off onto the oily rag.

How do I stop the LMF from working?

 

[bioprof]

I've never had this problem, so I am thinking that you may not have applied enough coats. Once you get a thick coat of oxidation, it shouldn't be able to rust because there won't be any exposed metal. That's just my two cents anyway.

 

[nchawkeye]

I've done it...The good news is the barrel looks great, deep brown with little pits on it...Years ago at a shoot in SC some guy says "I see you like to deep brown your barrels as well"...

Put it back in the tub and pour boiling hot water over, then pour baking soda over and let set for 10-15 minutes...Take it out and then treat with oil while it's still hot...

I noticed you mentioned warm water, I use hot...

 

[gmww]

That is odd. I've had it come back a couple of times but a light scrub with a plastic pad, baking soda or ammonia normally does it for me. WD40 for rust protection and moisture removal.

 

[ehoff]

First how old was your baking soda? Go buy a new box, then card off the heavy stuff make a paste with warm water and soda and scrub the barrel, rise with hot water then repeat. After your done stick the barrel in a bucket and using gloves scald it with boiling water from the tea kettle. When she cools off yet is still warm give it a coat of motor oil, wipe off the excess and you should be good to go. I've also read of using amonia to stop LMF browning solution but have never tried it.

 

[jtmattison]

I've never had a problem stopping the rusting with LMF. I use a bucket of warm water with about 1/2 of a box of Arm & Hammer dissolved in. I use an old toothbrush and a washcloth. I give it a good scrub/wipe down with this and rinse with the garden hose. Then I blow it dry with my air compressor, oil the bore, and then heat and coat with motor oil. After sitting overnight I wipe off the motor oil and apply Rem-Oil. Done.

HD

 

[agill]

Did you heat the metal parts with a torch after washing them in baking soda?

 

[Vaino]

I use ammonia to kill the reaction...submerge the small parts in a plastic pan for 5 min. and the bbl is washed w/ ammonia using a paint brush for 2-3 min. What's the finish like? 4 days x 24 hrs. = 96 hrs divided by 3 = 32 hrs per coat. Seems like a long time between coats. I apply 4 coats in 36-40 hrs but use a sweat box. Perhaps the finish is too thick?....Fred

 

[reddog]

I notice that you didn't say anything about carding after the third coat,,,

 

[RJR]

Don't know if they're the same formula as I use Danglers and have done it with BC Plumb Brown. I use a PVC pipe capped and cut lengthwise to make a trough. After carding I put it in the trough and cover with cider vinegar for a day, then wash and dry with hot water. I then coat and rub out Johnsons paste wax. Never have a problem with the browning process continuing after that.

 

[Little Wattsy]

Did you heat the metal parts with a torch after washing them in baking soda?

THIS is the awnser.....Ir drys or evaporates the water out from underneath the finish. THEN apply oil.