Cap and ball paper cartridges

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kmolett

40 Cal.
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
106
Reaction score
1
I have a couple of cap and ball revolvers. I decided I wanted to make some paper cartridges. The instructions I have seen for these are to use cigarette papers. I went to the grocery store and got some zig zag papers. They were not wide enough however to go around the .454 ball I am using. Wondering if someone can tell me what type of papers they use? Can you use another type of paper besides cigarette paper? Also the cigarette papers I got are gummed? Does that make any difference? My friends love to shoot my cap and ball revolvers with me, but reloading takes forever and I would like to be able to cut down on that time with some paper cartridges.
 
kmolett said:
I have a couple of cap and ball revolvers. I decided I wanted to make some paper cartridges. The instructions I have seen for these are to use cigarette papers. I went to the grocery store and got some zig zag papers. They were not wide enough however to go around the .454 ball I am using. Wondering if someone can tell me what type of papers they use? Can you use another type of paper besides cigarette paper? Also the cigarette papers I got are gummed? Does that make any difference? My friends love to shoot my cap and ball revolvers with me, but reloading takes forever and I would like to be able to cut down on that time with some paper cartridges.

I used cigarette papers myself to make my cartridges. There are two methods. 1 charge and ball in the paper or 2 just the charge in the paper and load the ball over that. I chose the 2nd and actually made real nice paper charges that fit in the cylinder perfect. I used the the back end of a sharpe for a mold and the papers were just the right size.

My experience at the range was not that good. The charges loaded great! I was able to slide the cartridge down into the cylinder, put the ball on top and ramed it down without issue. Was a lot easier than loading loose powder. First six shots were fine other than a noticeable hesitation between the hammer falling and the charge going off. The second full load had 2 cylinders that didnt fire. No problem, used a paper clip to clear the nipple and shot fine. It got worse every load after that. Even with using a pick to make sure the cartridge was open. What I found was that the cartridge was not fully burning away and left a residue that was being compacted in the bottom of the cylinder with every new load. :shake:

I used a folding method that gave me the thinnest possible overlap at the bottom of the cartridge in order to try and avaiod an ignition problem. All in all I was very unhappy at the range with the added frustration of loads failing to fire and having to vigorously ream out a path through the nipple to get each load to ignite. And cleaning out each cylinder before loading is a huge pain too.

Soooooo for now it is a nice concept, but bare powder for me for now till I figure a better way.
 
I found it easier to use cigarette paper that comes on a 2.5" x 15 foot roll. I bought it at a normal tobacconist shop but you may need to look where hippies buy papers for their more 'herbal' smokes.

My experiences were varied. I made up ball and charge cartridges and experienced the same problems with compacted deposits in the nipples that were almost impossible to poke clean. One way around this was to pierce the base of the cartridge before loading but sometimes the cartridge fell apart while doing it. An alternative is to prick them through the nipple but that is a bit fiddly.

Also, my early cartridges were rather 'sausage-shaped' and difficult to load so I shaped a wooden former with a more pronounced taper and these worked fine but with a smaller powder charge.

I also found that not all of the paper was being consumed. Quite often large pieces of unburnt paper remained in the chambers and had to be removed before reloading. Perhaps cigarette paper isn't sufficiently nitrated for this purpose?

Next I came across an article about Colt's patented tinfoil cartridges.

The following extract from ”˜United States’ magazine Vol. IV No 3 of March 1857 explains how these cartridges were made:

“Another of the numerous inventions of Colonel Colt is the Metallic Foil Cartridge, a contrivance that always insures "dry powder' to the possessor. Tin foil, cut in the required shape, is formed in an inverted cone, which is charged with gunpowder; the ball is oval, with a flat end; a circle is pierced near the edge, on this flat end, to receive the edge of the foil; on the cone and ball being brought together, the joint is closed by pressure; they are then inclosed (sic) in paper wrappers, so arranged that this covering can be instantly removed when the cartridge is about to be used. The whole operation is completed so perfectly that the cartridge is entirely impervious to water, as by experiment they have repeatedly been fired after having been immersed for hours. Owing to the peculiar shape of the bore of the nipple in Colt's firearms, the fire from the percussion caps readily penetrated the foil, without pricking.”

I got hold of a copy of "Self-consuming Paper Cartridges for the Percussion Revolver" by W.J. Kirst (1985), Pioneer Press, Union City, Tennessee (which gives clear instructions how to cut and form the cartridges) and instead of paper used ordinary kitchen aluminium foil.

These 'tinfoil' cartridges worked best of all, provided they were pricked before loading, leaving no residues in the chambers. At the time I had a Ruger Old Army so wasn't able to test the 'peculiar' nipples on the Colt.

One other thing, gluing the balls into the cartridges is messy and would be much easier if you were using conical bullets (which the article above refers to as 'balls'). I used a glue stick marketed in the UK as 'Pritt'. This was ideal for the job.

Best of luck! Let us know how you get on.
 
Brian,

Were you using average kitchen tin foil? And if so, was it totally consumed by the charge or did you have to clear the cylinder to keep it from clogging the cylinder?

I really like the loading ease of the cartridge, it was the disaster afterword that soured me LOL!
 
I met a guy at the range once who was shooting an old breechloading Sharps that used paper cartridges; he told me that he used magician's flash paper to make his paper cartridges.....wonder if it would work in this situation.
I've also heard of coating the cigarette rolling paper with potassium nitrate, letting it dry, and then making the cartridges.
Any thoughts?

Here is a link to flash paper, if anyone is interested.
[url] http://www.penguinmagic.com/product.php?ID=197[/url]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Not sure how many cartridges you could get out of each sheet, but seems a bit spendy to me :hmm:
 
I've only heard of using flash paper, anything else seems like it would need pricking or leave bits of the cartridge material behind.... never tried flash paper myself though
 
Tea bags work really well. Caps will blow through them and they burn completely.
 
I am going to try a few different methods. Question on the tinfoil however. A little worried about static electricity with a tinfoil wrapping around black powder.

Also on teabags I am only familiar with a meshy sort of fabric and not really a paper type bag. Is it more paper or more a bag type thing and does it roll like paper?

Thanks guys this is great. I can't wait to work on this. I was so bummed when my over the counter zig zag papers were not wide enough to go around the round ball. Thought I would have to go to a smoke shop!
 
I used to make them from onion skin paper that had been nitrated. They worked really well if you would take a drop of mucilage and put it on the end of the cartridge and stick it in 4F and let it dry. I never had a missed fire and cigarette tins work great for carrying them. I have made up both round ball and conicals this way. The best conical bullet is the old fashioned picket ball since it has a rebated base.
 
I used ordinary kitchen-grade aluminium foil that just happened to be in the cupboard. I can't say what happened to the tinfoil but I didn't get the residues in the chambers that I did with cigarette paper. I presumed that it was being blown out of the barrel but I suppose it could have been consumed?

As to explosion risk from static, I figured that if it was good enough for Samuel Colt (who after all sold millions of them), it was worth a try. The problem is, we don't know what weight of foil he used only that he had problems obtaining a suitable supply which for UK manufactured cartridges eventually came from Belgium.

Also, in those days 'tinfoil' probably was made from tin and not the aluminium substitute that I played about with. Again, I used 'Pritt' glue but that was simply because I had it lying around. Some other glue such as rubber cement might work?

A mate of mine shoots a Sharps capping breechloader and makes his own nitrated cartridges. He never has any residues left in the chamber. Another pal gave up on his though as he couldn't master the technique. Cigarette paper was useless and much too fragile. Sharps' combustible rifle cartridges were also made from nitrated linen.

I also use nitrated paper liners in my reformed CBC (24 gauge shotgun) .577/450 Martini-Henry rifle cartridges to reduce the powder volume to a manageable 90 grains. I've experimented with lots of papers but settled finally on blotting paper as it absorbs lots of saltpetre. Ordinary 'cartridge paper' doesn't work as well being much less absorbent.

I think paper revolver cartridges need to made out of a type of paper that is expensive and hard to come by nowadays. Mr Kirst recommends using 100% cotton, 16 pound, bond typing paper - he says "Don't settle for anything less...(because it) works much better than others."

You may be able to pick up 100% cotton paper on eBay but it will possibly be hand made and expensive. Does anyone know of any stocks of suitable typing paper?
 
For those wishing to experiment with nitrating paper. You can pick up stump remover such as Grants at Home Depot. It is naught but potassium nitrate, (saltpeter) I crush mine for easier dissolving in water.
 
conical slugs (bullets) from Lee molds for BP revolvers have the rebated 'heel'. (reduced diameter at the base for easier/straighter loading.) I haven't used or tryed to make any paper or foil cartriges however. I carry my spare powder charges (6) if hunting in 7.62X39 cases (AK or SKS caseful= 32 grs 3F) with a vacum line cap on the neck of the brass. this is a pre-measured powder charge ready to drop in. not PC I suppose but neither is the felt wad I place atop the powder. for that matter my ROA ain't PC, and I ain't for sure about my '58 Remmy 'Buffalo' model either.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top