cap n ballrevolvers

[butcher102]

I just got my first cap n ball revolver is it ok to keep it loaded
I am using real black powder will it damage the pistol ?

 

[capt_turk]

My wifes 58 Remy stays loaded all the time. Sometimes for months at a time. I shoot more often than she does so mine only stay loaded at most for weeks. They are both loaded all the time.

Just make sure your cylinders are spotlessly clean before loading. Don't put any lube on the ball or any wad with lube under the ball. Any lube on the ball or wad could migrate to the powder and hurt it.

I buy those Wonder lube pills and shove one on top of each ball after loading making sure it gets smooshed in good so there is a good tight seal all around. I would not use Crisco or any lube pill that melts at higher temps. Tried that to start with and it makes one hell of a mess. It ends up melting all over the holster in hot weather.

Number #10 caps fit tight on her Remy so I don't do anything to the caps to seal them. When I couldn't get #10's and had to use #11's I would put a dab of finger nail polish around each cap to make sure there is a good air tight seal.

I've never had any sign of a problem doing it that way. I've even fallen into the water with mine sealed up that way, and never had a problem with it not firing every time. I just pulled the cylinder, squirted W-40 into the works and barrel. Put it back together and went on.

 

[F.G. Ford]

Hi,
It won't damage the gun if it has not been fired.
What I mean is, don't shoot it, then load it and put it away.
To do so would let the corrosive actions of sulfurous acid eat the steel.
Loading a clean gun, in no way harms a gun.
Fred

 

[Brian6396]

You can keep it loaded. Black powder wont cause rust until after its fired. Im sure others will chime in.
welcome to the black powder addiction

what model revolver did you get?

and we love photos.

 

[Patocazador]

I live between you and capt turk and I haven't had the same experience with black powder in my Hawken clone. I loaded it after a thorough cleaning and drying and let it sit uncapped with the hammer flush on the nipple for 2-3 weeks. My percussion caps would either give a fizz shot (delayed) or only a cap pop. It can't be any more humid here than where you are. This scenario happened at least 3 times (slow learner).
Now I load the gun just before I am ready to hunt or shoot.

It didn't cause rust though just dud loads.

 

with todays metallurgy generally no.
Even though BP is somewhat corrosive even unfired.
But not likely you will see enough corrosion in a lifetime to matter.
I however,do make paper cartridges for mine.
Paper insulates the powder from the metal. This is also good protection against condensation from hot / cold temperature changes.
Plus it speeds up reloading.
I also use conicals with a lube groove. I carry round balls and cartridges with me if I feel I need to reload quickly.
Conicals are a little slower to reload.

 

[butcher102]

It is a 1858 new army buffalo revolver 44cal brass frame
With a 12 inch barrel

 

[Many Klatch]

With the brass frame, don't load it with the full 25 grains of powder. Heavy loads will eventually mess up a brass frame. 18 grain loads would be better.

Many Klatch

 

[butcher102]

I am loading 30 grains of powder it seems to be doing fine
The book that came with it said max load 35 grains

 

[rodwha]

From what I've read many times anything over about 25 grns will damage the recoil shield and stretch the frame. Take your cylinder out and inspect it. Look for an imprint of the back side of your cylinder on the frame.

I've heard 25 grns is about max for a .44 cal brass framed pistol. And I suppose that also depends on which powders you use. As most seem to use Goex or similar black powders, or Pyrodex, which all seem to give similar velocities, I'd think a further reduction might be necessary if using Swiss, Olde Eynsford, or Triple 7 powders.

 

[crockett]

It is okay to keep it loaded as far as the gun is concerned. The black powder is okay.
During the Civil War they used premade cartridges (a combustible paper "case", the powder, and the ball). Some of those loads used 17 grains of powder so 30-35 grains is more than plenty- if you are thinking about home defense. 20-22 grains ought to be fine. I'd only use the 30-35 grains for occasional hunting.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

I've owned 3 brass framed '58 'buffalo' and found that 25 gr was the max charge before groups opened up loading lee mold slugs.
more can be loaded however if desired. I shot many 100's of 25gr charges thru mine w/no problem.
to me there's just something appealing about the 'buffalo' revolver however I have no idea if they were ever used in real life.

 

[capt_turk]

I have a Hawkin flinter. I keep it loaded for months also. Never had a problem with duds. I stick a waxed toothpick in the touch hole to seal that end. That is probably where your problem is. It needs to be sealed on both ends. If your rifle is percussion, I would make sure a cap was on it all the time, or at least figure out a way to seal the nipple. The hammer resting on the bare nipple does not seal it completely.

I've lived in S. Louisiana, and now in central Florida and have never had a problem.

 

[cynthialee]

If you plan on keeping a BP revolver loaded for a lengthy time you should take extra care and time in your loading regimen.
Make sure all surfaces inside the chambers are spotless. Make sure the nipples are spotless and just a micro dab of lubricant on the threads when replaced. After replaceing the nipples taker the time to run a q-tip down to the face of the nipple to remove any surface oils on the face of the nipple inside the chamber. Be sure the nipples are clear of obstruction.
Make sure each load has properly shaved lead. Actually inspect the lead ring and be sure.
Use the best fitting cap you can. Be sure the caps are secured snug and will not come off when you test them with a single fingernail against an edge pulling up with a small amount of force. If the cap is snug it should not come off the cap. If it is not snug it will come off. A light touch of clear nail polish on the sides of the caps where they meet the nipples is sometimes used to seal against moisture and to help secure the caps. (I do not. I have known some who do.)
Seal the chambers with some form of grease. Bore butter or wonderlube works well enough. One of the few actual uses for the stuff.

As with any other firearm that is left loaded you do this and it is your responsibility. It may be an old fashioned weapon, but it is still a gun. It is highly deadly and very dangerous. If there are likely to be children around it shouldn't be left loaded. ....
*gets off soap box*

 

I kept my 1863 Remington loaded for three years. Worked like a charm. Its important to make sure your cylinders are dry to begin with. You should not have any other problem otherwise. Here is a video of me firing the 3 year old loads in the beginning of the video as well as overall shooting. I had kept it loaded with a weak wadcutter load.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MNC-Z0YSQEc

I keep my new 1851 navy loaded up fully in case I needed to use it. I do not doubt its reliability at all.

 

[robinsroost]

I have left my 1858 New Army loaded for over a year, and it still fires, every time. I load those little felt pills over the powder, pushed down tight, then a lead RB, pushed down tight on the powder. *10 caps on the nipples, also pushed down tight. I have left my .50 cal Hawken loaded for two years, and it fired, first time. I cut a 1/2" square out of a truck inner tube, punched a hole thru one corner, and tied it to the trigger guard with a piece of waxed linen cord. The square of rcbber gets placed between the hammer and nipple, to seal out moisture. Robin