Cap Priming Compound

[BlackRock52]

Are there other sources for cap priming compound besides Prime All from Sharpshooter 22LR Reloader and roll caps from wherever?
Thx

 

[n.h.schmidt]

Yes there is. Most who want to do this will go the fireworks supply places. I have two places for you to look at. Fireworks Cookbook and Skylighter. The formula most often used is the FA-42. I use it and am happy with it.

 

[Nobade]

Amazon is your friend here also. I also use FA-42, for the price of one primeall kit you can buy enough supplies for a lifetime of shooting.

 

[Larry Akers]

I just bought some off ebay. Comes in pre-measured packets of chemicals you just mix together to make 1 ounce of compound which will make thousands of primers.

 

[jeff b]

What is fa-42. Could you explain .

 

[R Ellis]

I just bought some off ebay. Comes in pre-measured packets of chemicals you just mix together to make 1 ounce of compound which will make thousands of primers.

could you provide a link to the chemicals I am unable to find it

 

[Larry Akers]

H-48 Primer compound formula by weight:

Potassium chlorate 51%
Antimony sulfide 27.3%
Sulfur 9.1%
Glass powder 12.1%
Sodium bicarbonate trace (optional)
Aluminum powder trace (optional)


Or go to ebay, search "priming compound". It'll be at the top of the page.

 

[n.h.schmidt]

I have just weighed the powders needed to make 30 percussion caps. I use the FA-42 formula(same as the reloader powders without the useless binder baggie). The powders when in the cups are half filling and less than that when pushed down. 16.1 grains will make 30 percussion caps as I make them. According to my Texas Instruments T-1220 calculator That works out to 814 percussion caps per ounce . I wish it came out to more.

 

[jeff b]

H-48 Primer compound formula by weight:

Potassium chlorate 51%
Antimony sulfide 27.3%
Sulfur 9.1%
Glass powder 12.1%
Sodium bicarbonate trace (optional)
Aluminum powder trace (optional)


Or go to ebay, search "priming compound". It'll be at the top of the page.

Thanks

 

[Nobade]

FA42 is the same chemicals as FA48 but without the ground glass. It's not needed.
This site has everything you need to start making primers or caps:
https://aardvarkreloading.com/

 

[longcruise]

I have the 22 sharpshooter set up but given the poor performance of the binder I'd just as soon leave it out but I can't be sure of which bag it is. Anyone know how to identify it?

 

[Nobade]

How many bags are there?
KCL is white, S is yellow, and Antimony Trisulfide is black.

 

[n.h.schmidt]

The small bag with the off white powder is the supposed binder. Just measure out with the scoop like normal but leave out the binder. It will work fine and likely with more power without that filler. Just use some other binder like has been talked about.
I'm surprised that nobody has commented about how much less priming charges we are likely to get out of a kit. Less than half than talked about.

 

[longcruise]

I'm surprised that nobody has commented about how much less priming charges we are likely to get out of a kit. Less than half than talked about

Thanks for the tip on the binder ID.

One reason for fewer than what they talk about is the recommendation of using the small scoop half full. I know that I found that to be near impossible to maintain a consistent amount. I quickly change to using a small rifle primer with the anvil removed. It makes a very energetic cap. I could reduce the amount of compound somewhat and still have a good primer. Just haven't come up with a replacement so far.

 

[n.h.schmidt]

I use a cut in half red plastic toy cap gun cap Usually found in ring s for toy revolvers. Glued to a matchstick. Half size for sidelock rifles and 1/3 size for the revolvers. I have found that too much power in the revolvers fragment the cup leading to a lot of problems. .005 36ga brass is about perfect for the revolvers as that will not fragment and stays on the nipples. I use double pop can cups for the rifles.

 

[Nobade]

I use a cut in half red plastic toy cap gun cap Usually found in ring s for toy revolvers. Glued to a matchstick. Half size for sidelock rifles and 1/3 size for the revolvers. I have found that too much power in the revolvers fragment the cup leading to a lot of problems. .005 36ga brass is about perfect for the revolvers as that will not fragment and stays on the nipples. I use double pop can cups for the rifles.

Where do you find .005" brass sheet? I want to try that and see if I can get better revolver caps.

 

[dave61965]

Where do you find .005" brass sheet? I want to try that and see if I can get better revolver caps.

You can find it on amazon or ace hardware, I know hobby lobby carries it in my area but I don’t know what sizes but I have seen it in the store.

 

[n.h.schmidt]

Nobade and anyone that is interested. I used K&S Soft Brass Stock No 6010 36 gauge 12" X 30". That's 360 square inches and could make as many as 1440 cups. I had to use a little paste wax on the side that becomes the inside of the cup.The formed cups didn't want to come off of the post in the die without it. When I used soft copper the problem was worse. I ordered mine off of Amazon

 

[Nobade]

Nobade and anyone that is interested. I used K&S Soft Brass Stock No 6010 36 gauge 12" X 30". That's 360 square inches and could make as many as 1440 cups. I had to use a little paste wax on the side that becomes the inside of the cup.The formed cups didn't want to come off of the post in the die without it. When I used soft copper the problem was worse. I ordered mine off of Amazon

Thanks! I'm going to try some.

 

[russellshaffer]

Thanks for the tip on the binder ID.

One reason for fewer than what they talk about is the recommendation of using the small scoop half full. I know that I found that to be near impossible to maintain a consistent amount. I quickly change to using a small rifle primer with the anvil removed. It makes a very energetic cap. I could reduce the amount of compound somewhat and still have a good primer. Just haven't come up with a replacement so far.

Rub your primer cup measure on a sharpening stone or fine sandpaper. It shortens it right up.