-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Capotes!
- Thread starter KLWeaver
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
- Joined
- May 6, 2014
- Messages
- 17,431
- Reaction score
- 16,433
The only tip I can give is not on how to make it, but rather in what material you choose to make it from.
Back in the 70's, we found some expensive and modern Whitney Four Point Blankets that were MUCH reduced in price. It seemed they would make great capotes, being high quality and from the same company who had made them for so long. However, the weave was too loose and the wind cut through it like there was almost nothing there. I was extremely disappointed after the time it took to make it.
So my suggestion is to find a blanket or "blanket material" wool that is thick, but with a tight weave where the wind won't cut through it. Then you will have a Capote worth making and do you good in the cold.
Gus
Back in the 70's, we found some expensive and modern Whitney Four Point Blankets that were MUCH reduced in price. It seemed they would make great capotes, being high quality and from the same company who had made them for so long. However, the weave was too loose and the wind cut through it like there was almost nothing there. I was extremely disappointed after the time it took to make it.
So my suggestion is to find a blanket or "blanket material" wool that is thick, but with a tight weave where the wind won't cut through it. Then you will have a Capote worth making and do you good in the cold.
Gus
Good thinking, thank you for that info.. I have two generic blankets that might work well, but I was thinking about buying a wool blanket from the local army surplus store here and using that as this my first time making a capote and would rather not use a nice hudson bay or something expensive like that until I've got the basic pattern down.
I am not familure with the pattern. Is it s fringed boxy capote?
Such a coat is late in time near the 1880/90s but it's the look many want when they think capote. The name was used for coats back to before the 17th century.
Period blanket coats tended to be more fitted, had little or no fringe, most stopped at or a little above the knee. Matching leggings was seen, some were lined. Striped or check cloth or even a tartan style was seen for the lining. Northwest traders offers capote patterns that recreate the taylored and duffle style.
Your spending the best part of a hunndred dollars for the material don't make something you may be less satisfied with in a year.
Such a coat is late in time near the 1880/90s but it's the look many want when they think capote. The name was used for coats back to before the 17th century.
Period blanket coats tended to be more fitted, had little or no fringe, most stopped at or a little above the knee. Matching leggings was seen, some were lined. Striped or check cloth or even a tartan style was seen for the lining. Northwest traders offers capote patterns that recreate the taylored and duffle style.
Your spending the best part of a hunndred dollars for the material don't make something you may be less satisfied with in a year.
Black Hand
Cannon
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2005
- Messages
- 9,348
- Reaction score
- 896
Wash the blanket in hot water and dry on high heat. It will shrink the blanket & tighten the weave.
- Joined
- May 6, 2014
- Messages
- 17,431
- Reaction score
- 16,433
OhioRamm said:
I'm sure Black Hand means to do it before you cut the material for your pattern and sew it up. I was told to do the same thing for the Diced Wool material from which I made my Scottish Bag Hose, before I cut them out. Have to admit I was concerned doing it on material that cost $ 45.00 a yard and I had to have 2 yards of it for my huge feet and large legs, but I am glad I did it.
You might try making a first one out of an old bed sheet as a cheap pattern.
Gus
Yes I learned via bad results to shrink material before sewing, even 'pre shrunk'. Wool is not rain proof but a good duffle coat can turn a lot of rain and snow but needs to be tight.
This is the Polish wool blanket from Turkey Foot. It's pretty thick, weighs about 5 or 6 pounds.
It's a little less thick than a US Army blanket, but not by much. Tightness of weave? Not really sure what to compare that to. It's warm though. I'm sick as a dog right now and got hot underneath it.
Don't think this edge is HC/PC, but can be easily remedied.
It's a little less thick than a US Army blanket, but not by much. Tightness of weave? Not really sure what to compare that to. It's warm though. I'm sick as a dog right now and got hot underneath it.
Don't think this edge is HC/PC, but can be easily remedied.
I didn't make this one, and never wear it, not of my chosen period. It's hand sewn, but not with those large XXX stitches many capotes have. Most seams are welted with the same material as the edge trim. The hood and tassel is said to be a late feature, but it sure feels good when its snugged up around your head and neck on a frigid day.
http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Spence_2010/slideshow/Capote
Spence
http://s881.photobucket.com/user/Spence_2010/slideshow/Capote
Spence
Last edited by a moderator:
:haha: The first one I made was from a Mexican wool blanket that was a very large plaid. I made it in the Indian late style with black yarn sewing. I taped a cloth tape measure along my edge so I could get those big xes right. When I put it on I knew I could pass for Bill Tyler
Yes. My Whitney capote looks just fine. But on really cold days it does let wind through and is less than comfy. I now have weskit (vest) and sorta jacket of a lighter weight wool. I can layer all three for warmth if needed. Bulky but warm.
My tip would be to NOT have a hood. My preferred head gear is either a Rifleman's round hat or a bear skin hat with feather decoration. The hood cannot be worn over these and is useless extra weight. I would have prefered a shawl collar.
Want me to make it?
- Joined
- May 6, 2014
- Messages
- 17,431
- Reaction score
- 16,433
As to a good type of material for a capote or great coat, I found more information that you may find interesting:
“As for fabrics, only sheep's wool is appropriate. The fabric weight can only be a rough guideline: A densely woven, well-felted, light woolen may keep out the cold and the wet better a heavier, less densely woven and/or less felted one. Worsted is not suitable because it lacks the insulating effect of felting. I strongly advise against any twill weave because they are often elastic on the bias”¦”¦. If the fabric is well-felted, the edges can be left raw.” http://marquise.de/en/1700/howto/mantel.shtml
The following is information on material, but also on using the collar to protect much of the face in bitter cold by folding it up ”“ as opposed to having a hood. Good pictures in the link that demonstrate it:
“Fortunately, Tailor Mark Hutter of Colonial Williamsburg obliged us by showing us his handsome great coat, typical of styles from 1740-1770. Working from extant 18th c. examples as well as portraits, Mark made this double-breasted coat, right, from grey wool beaver cloth, a dense, fulled (think felted) fabric that is napped and pressed to resemble beaver fur. The cloth was thick to be wind-proof, and rain and snow would find it a challenge as well. Because this is an overcoat, the body is unlined. The buttons are covered with the same cloth, and the buttonholes are welted.”
http://twonerdyhistorygirls.blogspot.com/2010/11/keeping-warm-in-18th-c-gentlemans-great.html
Since some Navy Pea Coats go back to the early 18th century, I thought it might be good to see what kind of material they were/are made from.
The standard for historical pea coats was 30 ounces (approx. 850 g) wool, most often made of heavy Melton cloth through the 1970s in the U.S. Navy. Presently coats are made from 22”“32 oz (620”“910 g) wool. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pea_coat
“Melton cloth[edit]
Melton Mowbray is home to Melton cloth (first mentioned in 1823), which is the familiar tight-woven woollen cloth which is heavily milled, and a nap raised so as to form a short, dense, non-lustrous pile. Sailors' pea coats are traditionally made of Melton cloth, the universal workmans' donkey jackets of Britain and Ireland and in North America, loggers' "cruising jackets" and Mackinaws.” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melton_Mowbray#Melton_cloth
Another choice to protect much of the head when one does not want a hood as part of the coat is the separate cloth hood shown in this Kannik’s Korner pattern: http://www.kannikskorner.com/images/k4001drw.gif
Gus
“As for fabrics, only sheep's wool is appropriate. The fabric weight can only be a rough guideline: A densely woven, well-felted, light woolen may keep out the cold and the wet better a heavier, less densely woven and/or less felted one. Worsted is not suitable because it lacks the insulating effect of felting. I strongly advise against any twill weave because they are often elastic on the bias”¦”¦. If the fabric is well-felted, the edges can be left raw.” http://marquise.de/en/1700/howto/mantel.shtml
The following is information on material, but also on using the collar to protect much of the face in bitter cold by folding it up ”“ as opposed to having a hood. Good pictures in the link that demonstrate it:
“Fortunately, Tailor Mark Hutter of Colonial Williamsburg obliged us by showing us his handsome great coat, typical of styles from 1740-1770. Working from extant 18th c. examples as well as portraits, Mark made this double-breasted coat, right, from grey wool beaver cloth, a dense, fulled (think felted) fabric that is napped and pressed to resemble beaver fur. The cloth was thick to be wind-proof, and rain and snow would find it a challenge as well. Because this is an overcoat, the body is unlined. The buttons are covered with the same cloth, and the buttonholes are welted.”
http://twonerdyhistorygirls.blogspot.com/2010/11/keeping-warm-in-18th-c-gentlemans-great.html
Since some Navy Pea Coats go back to the early 18th century, I thought it might be good to see what kind of material they were/are made from.
The standard for historical pea coats was 30 ounces (approx. 850 g) wool, most often made of heavy Melton cloth through the 1970s in the U.S. Navy. Presently coats are made from 22”“32 oz (620”“910 g) wool. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pea_coat
“Melton cloth[edit]
Melton Mowbray is home to Melton cloth (first mentioned in 1823), which is the familiar tight-woven woollen cloth which is heavily milled, and a nap raised so as to form a short, dense, non-lustrous pile. Sailors' pea coats are traditionally made of Melton cloth, the universal workmans' donkey jackets of Britain and Ireland and in North America, loggers' "cruising jackets" and Mackinaws.” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melton_Mowbray#Melton_cloth
Another choice to protect much of the head when one does not want a hood as part of the coat is the separate cloth hood shown in this Kannik’s Korner pattern: http://www.kannikskorner.com/images/k4001drw.gif
Gus
Last edited by a moderator:
