I like the Ted Cash “The Rifleman” capster.
Does good and is based on a period one.
Does good and is based on a period one.
Capping and De-capping a Muzzle Loader
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SamTex1949
32 Cal.
Id recommend still find a GROUP or club of ML shooters in your area. Go observe with your son , ask questions and let them know what your interested in ! All the suggestions here are very good but nothing like observing and then getting to do with experienced folks to help.
I wish we actually had a group around here. I have become the local group of one, I would be thrilled for new people to show up, I will teach anyone that wants to learn and will supply a rifle, powder, patch and ball for the range trip.
Wasn't worried about it myself but being newer as well I love seeing all the advise. Gotta make sure I don't do nuttin stupid 
This is a convenient multi-tool for removing wedge pins, uncapping using the slot cut out in the flat end, and also I use the nipple pick all the time for removing caps stuck in the hammer cup.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...ple+pick+tool&selectedindex=1&ajaxhist=0&vt=0
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...ple+pick+tool&selectedindex=1&ajaxhist=0&vt=0
Eric makes a good point. Get you a nipple pick and hang it to your pouch strap or powder horn where it's out of the way but easy to reach. Getting frostbite in your hands will set you up so's you cannot feel something as tiny and light weight as a No. 11 cap. My take on cappers is, most of them will help. I've got a couple of the straight line variety and some home-made leather ones too for when I go "modern" and dig the cap guns out. That said, they're better than fumbling with big rough fingers, especially in cold weather
and Ted Cash makes some outstanding gear. Of course, if you switch to rocklocks, you don't have to worry about cappers. Knapping tools, yes. Cappers not so much. Like always it comes down to personal preference.
and Ted Cash makes some outstanding gear. Of course, if you switch to rocklocks, you don't have to worry about cappers. Knapping tools, yes. Cappers not so much. Like always it comes down to personal preference.
On the subject of cappers, and the people who are unfamiliar with muzzleloading, I was once amused when browsing Ebay to see a straight-line capper offered as something antique and probably rare. The seller stated that he wasn't sure what it was used for. I wrote to the seller and revealed the secret that they are for sale in sporting goods departments for way less than the price he was expecting. I probably made his day.
ugly old guy
40 Cal
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"Back In The Day" most folks used their fingers. No logical reason folks today can't do the same.
Cappers were (are) expensive, and not necessarily reliable (drop caps) nor fool/recruit proof, and can be lost ... so can a tin of caps, come to that.
Cappers were (are) expensive, and not necessarily reliable (drop caps) nor fool/recruit proof, and can be lost ... so can a tin of caps, come to that.
N.Y. Yankee
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I highly recommend just using the 100 count tin of percussion caps and only having one tin at a time. That way, you can fumble and struggle trying to open the small tin every time you want a cap, especially if you have large and/or cold fingers. Then, you can have the added benefit of looking like a total rookie and completely embarrassing yourself as the open tin pops out of your fingers and disappears in the tall grass below you as you struggle to get ONE cap out of the tin. This is incredibly fun if you are in a group of shooters and it is your turn to shoot and everyone is watching you load your gun. Or if you are at the range trying to concentrate on loading with others shooting there next to you. This usually results in dry-balling the gun as well, adding much to the pleasure of BP shooting. Yes, the convenient little tin fits in your pocket easily and can provide an entire weekend of stress, humiliation, and disappointment. Of course, this never happened to me. It was a guy I heard about. A couple of times. BUY A CAPPER AND USE IT!!! Better yet, buy 3!
Lots of advice here but I AM a certified muzzleloading instructor who is also an active muzzeloading competitor. So my take-
Capping devices ok especially with those iddy biddy #10&11s. Not so much with larger musket caps. But not necessary. Focus on fundamentals before buying stuff then you'll know if you really do need that gadget.
Decapping- if the gun has been fired, they almost always fall off, that is until you're in a speed shoot and they'll always hang and lacerate your fingers. I keep a small knife on my belt that doubles as a tool to remove stubborn caps and also is my patch knife when shooting PRB.
Decapping unfired- get the hammer to half cock slowly and carefully with the gun pointed in a safe direction. Often the cap will come off using your fingers. If it's a tight fit, gently pry it off, again keeping the gun pointed in a SAFE direction. If the hammer is too close to the nipple at half cock, you'll just have to do it at full cock with your finger off the trigger and the gun pointed in a safe direction.
As for clearing the nipple before reloading, two schools of thought. Both have valid points. One says remove the cap to allow the charge to get into the flash channel. Problem with that is if there is the slightest ember in the breech which might not set off the charge, will most certainly do so during ramming because ramming in this case will force fresh air into the channel and ignite the charge. The other school says leave the cap on as there is no oxygen left in the breech from the previous shot and it will be impossible to set off the charge. Personally, I subscribe to the latter. Supporting evidence, review the loading procedure for muzzeloading artillery and focus on the role of the thumbstall. It was kept on the vent through the entire loading process until ready to "prick and prime" and insert the friction primer. That effectively sealed the channel against fresh oxygen until the cannon was loaded. And yes, as part of my competition shooting, I'm on a cannon crew serving positions 1 or 2 on a rifled howitzer in cannon matches.
Capping devices ok especially with those iddy biddy #10&11s. Not so much with larger musket caps. But not necessary. Focus on fundamentals before buying stuff then you'll know if you really do need that gadget.
Decapping- if the gun has been fired, they almost always fall off, that is until you're in a speed shoot and they'll always hang and lacerate your fingers. I keep a small knife on my belt that doubles as a tool to remove stubborn caps and also is my patch knife when shooting PRB.
Decapping unfired- get the hammer to half cock slowly and carefully with the gun pointed in a safe direction. Often the cap will come off using your fingers. If it's a tight fit, gently pry it off, again keeping the gun pointed in a SAFE direction. If the hammer is too close to the nipple at half cock, you'll just have to do it at full cock with your finger off the trigger and the gun pointed in a safe direction.
As for clearing the nipple before reloading, two schools of thought. Both have valid points. One says remove the cap to allow the charge to get into the flash channel. Problem with that is if there is the slightest ember in the breech which might not set off the charge, will most certainly do so during ramming because ramming in this case will force fresh air into the channel and ignite the charge. The other school says leave the cap on as there is no oxygen left in the breech from the previous shot and it will be impossible to set off the charge. Personally, I subscribe to the latter. Supporting evidence, review the loading procedure for muzzeloading artillery and focus on the role of the thumbstall. It was kept on the vent through the entire loading process until ready to "prick and prime" and insert the friction primer. That effectively sealed the channel against fresh oxygen until the cannon was loaded. And yes, as part of my competition shooting, I'm on a cannon crew serving positions 1 or 2 on a rifled howitzer in cannon matches.
