carrying powder(hunting)
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fyrfyter43
45 Cal.
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You make the plug yourself to fit the horn. You can either make a stopper, or use a tapered violin peg.
Do yourself a favor and pick up this book: http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(n...tId=1&subId=12&styleId=39&partNum=BOOK-R18CPH
It will walk you through making your horn.
Do yourself a favor and pick up this book: http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(n...tId=1&subId=12&styleId=39&partNum=BOOK-R18CPH
It will walk you through making your horn.
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I have so seldom needed a fast reload that I don't do anything special.
Though recently I have been experimenting with paper cartridges in a 16 bore and then shoot to the same point of aim at 50 yards+.
Tear the tail off the tapered cartridge set it in the muzzle, the powder drains as the ball is pushed down. The paper then forms the patch. Its good for 2-3 shots in my .67 caliber. One wrap of paper lets the ball fit the bore OK.
Have not tried it in the 50-54 calibers yet.
Dan
Though recently I have been experimenting with paper cartridges in a 16 bore and then shoot to the same point of aim at 50 yards+.
Tear the tail off the tapered cartridge set it in the muzzle, the powder drains as the ball is pushed down. The paper then forms the patch. Its good for 2-3 shots in my .67 caliber. One wrap of paper lets the ball fit the bore OK.
Have not tried it in the 50-54 calibers yet.
Dan
bull3540 said:
The problem with metal containers is thickness. A "fast fire" in a powder horn might split it and will likely blow out the base plug.
Heavy metal produces grenade like results. This is why the metal powder flasks (the good ones) are made of VERY thin metal.
When poorly contained BP produces a flash and a very low order explosion if at all. The more it is contained the more pressure it builds and the more violent the result becomes. Making a powder flask from copper or brass tubing is basically the formula for a pipe bomb. Horn is far safer than metal. A thin metal flask is next best. Heavy (over .010 thick) metal is, IMO, needlessly dangerous.
I have heard accounts or people stepping on a powder can after a tipi fire, having the powder ignite and suffering no injury apparently since the can failed at the seam and the seam was not "aimed" at the man.
Plastic bottles are very weak as well. It is possible to fuse the middle bottle in a case and it will only set off a few of the others the rest are simply scorched.
But stronger containment will produce pressures high enough to severely maim or kill a human.
There are commercial made primers and flasks made from tubing that fall into the bomb category as well.
Dan
newtewsmoke
45 Cal.
Is that block of wood w/ the holes made to fit rnd balls w/patch wedged into the presized hole, then pushed on through with what looks like a starter attatched to it? Im new. Looks like a pretty slick deal if it is. ScottStumpkiller said:13" horn that holds about 75 or 80 shots.
I carry an original Hawksley flask when shotgunning that holds about 60 shots.
When I'm just out with a few shots in my pocket or a belt-pack I use Nalgene pill bottles (mine came from the Eureka Tent outlet store for backpackers).
newtewsmoke
45 Cal.
Im still brand new to all this BP stuff and am having a blast, anyway, non-trad. as it is, I took the guts out of a couple magic markers, pulled the end cap to fill, which will snap back into place nice and tight,(the other end is the lid) and carry a couple pre-measured powder charges in them. The fat sharpies will come apart if youre careful not to wreck the tip that the lid snaps onto, then they have a nice little clip for your shirt pocket. Just till I get time to make something CORRECT!
You can get the loading blocks for round balls here:
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(q.../tableList.aspx?catID=1&subID=193&styleID=978
They're made according to caliber and meant to be loaded with a patch.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(q.../tableList.aspx?catID=1&subID=193&styleID=978
They're made according to caliber and meant to be loaded with a patch.
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newtewsmoke said:
That's exactly what it is. I normally shoot using a pre-loaded ball block. My favorite holds three patched balls and slips in a loop on my horn strap . . . so I always have three quick shots as long as I have remembered my horn. :wink:
Here are some examples I have bought, made or been given. The long five-holer slips in a knife sheath that is on the back of my shooting pouch. The tombstone shaped one came from Track of the Wolf and I added a seventh hole. A pen knife and a block of wood just maybe 1/8" thicker than the ball's diameter is all you need.
Here's another that HuntinDawg gave me.
On days like today when it's 13ºF and windy out a loading block is a God-send.
Well, I don't dance over fires nor do I pour from the powder flask directly into the barrel. I guess Treso, CVA, etc., need to be shut down by the ATF for making brass pipe bombs then too. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/...MainCatcat20712-cat20720-cat603821&id=0006439 http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(h...?catId=1&subId=11&styleId=32&partNum=FLASK-PSDan Phariss said:
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longfowler
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I use 35mm film canisters, and quite often for my shotgun I also have room for the shot & wads in there also - I just separate the powder in a coin roll or other type of pre-made paper container.
hornbuilder
40 Cal.
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you haven't found a horn that you like so you bought a piece of copper tube ? and you found that more to your liking ????? :surrender:
For carrying powder while hunting, yes. Holding 450 grains, the completed flask gives me 6 shots and at 8" x 3/8" I can slip one into my hunting bag and have enough room left for everything else I may need for the day.
newtewsmoke
45 Cal.
do you make your starters also? if so do you do anything special to the end of them?
Yes. I make them. Nope. Nothing fancy with the ends. I whittle them from either flat maple pieces or old broken tool handles (ash, hickory, beech). Those woods are hard enough to take the pressure. All the ones shown in my images were made from one piece and the stub/dowel end just whittled in place. I like a 1-1/2" stub just to get the ball out of the block and started. I made the staple to fasten the one out of a piece of clothes hanger wire heated and pounded flat, then formed into a staple. Looks antique.
One of my favorites (I dropped it one hunt and now it belongs to the ages) was a piece of 1-1/2" diameter witchhazel with the bark still on the "palm" section and a smaller piece of dowel from a thinner branch was fitted into the larger piece. Like a crab hammer but rounded into a curve opposite the dowel base. It was the cat's a$$ for pushing shotgun wads and cards down to start them. Reminds me I need to make a replacement right away.
One of my favorites (I dropped it one hunt and now it belongs to the ages) was a piece of 1-1/2" diameter witchhazel with the bark still on the "palm" section and a smaller piece of dowel from a thinner branch was fitted into the larger piece. Like a crab hammer but rounded into a curve opposite the dowel base. It was the cat's a$$ for pushing shotgun wads and cards down to start them. Reminds me I need to make a replacement right away.
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