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Casting a nose cap from pewter

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maypo59

40 Cal.
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Feb 4, 2007
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Ok, so I am building a traditions St. Louis hawken as a learning project. Not bad, more work than I thought, lots of fun problem solving and the like..
The thing most vexing about the kit was/is the nose cap. The one that came in the kit was very poorly cast, and when they had done their finishing, they had caused it to be quite uneven in thickness side to side. I called them and they sent me another, it was better but still about 25% thinner on the left side then the right. I was going to place an order to Log Cabin Shop, so I added a new Hawken cap from them, from a T/C.. it was much better in the deminsions for the sides of the stock, but was shorter top to bottom, and I felt it would make the wood under my ramrod hole very thin, to thin.

Sooo.. after rooting around in here, I decided that casting a nose cap was a desirable skill, to be used later, so why not learn it now?

Here goes.. Bought 1.1 pounds of jewlery grade pewter from the epay.. bought cast iron melting pot at Sportsmans Warehouse, then "unseasoned" it.

Got some time alone with the wife's oven and did some experimenting.. pewter was good and melted and flowed well at 550F. Cast a "new" ingot in a piece of pine I bored a couple holes in for the purpose. Lined a hole with manila folder and cast a "tall" ingot. No problems, no flames, no burns or marks on the wood. So, come saturday, had a couple shooting buds over for some venison chilli and some bourbon.. before we started on those chores, I popped the question about casting a cap, and they were like "heck yeah! your wife's gone to get a massage, lets play in the kitchen!!" so, here is the evidence..

1st a shot of the formage.. It's just a couple shims to get things where I wanted, poplar wood, painters tape, some aluminum foil in a couple strategic spots to avoid sticking and 1 thickness of manila folder.
form1.jpg


The stand apparatus to hold it upright..
standing.jpg


Poured and cooling..Allowed oven to preheat for 30 minutes, with pot inside, added billet, allowed 15 minutes for it to come up to temperature.
cooling.jpg


Allowed it to cool for 1 easy tumbler of Woodford Reserve, sipped.. Then unmolded..
outofmold.jpg


Ate chilli, drank another celebratory glass of bourbon, Ridgmont 1792.. hey! it was a celebration!

Been working on clean up and shapeing.. here is where it's at today.. Note the "inlet" of the under rib, doubt it's PC in any way, but I like it.
nearlydone1.jpg


another view..
nearlydone2.jpg


anyways.. thats my story on the cast nose cap..
 
That is a very good job of casting, and these pictures are terrific. The only thing missing is a picture of you actually pouring the cap!

I like the inlet for the underrib, too.

:bow: :hatsoff:
 
:shocked2: Holy crap! That's one of the coolest things I've seen here! Great job!

The wife's kitchen looks very tidy too by the way.
 
Nice work, that turned out very smooth. But....you sure live dangerously, I mean, pouring pewter in the kitchen over a vinyl floor with nothing under the rifle!!??
 
My wife would like me to point out that SHE took the first picture before going for the massage.. and, if you look in the 3rd pic, you will see we had 2 layers of protection under that baby, but had we had an "accident" she would not have been to upset, we want to replace that floor anyways. Everyone had on long sleeves, leather shoes and eye protection at pour time too.. remember, as Norm Abrahms says, safety first in the shop and always wear protection...
 
maypo59: Lookin GOOD!!!
Don't worry about this now, but the next time you cast a nosecap, drill a couple of holes thru the thin wood that the cast material is going to be cast over.
These holes run from the outside surface, thru the wood and end up in the barrel channel.

The barrel will act as a dam and heat sink to chill the metal and the resulting cast material will "lock" the casting to the wood so that it will never pull off.

The casting you made will also probably never pull off but having it lock into the wood guarantees it won't happen. :)
 
Nice job, Maypo! I had my 1st experience with pewter a week ago. Poured a bolster on a patch knife. Had the melt too cold and it didn't quite fill out. Your pour looks perfect. :thumbsup: GW
 
Zonie,
I dremeled a couple 1/4" deep, 1/2" long "T" shape "keys" into the sides of the wood "sprue" that was/is in the center of the cap. Pretty sure it isn't going anywhere with out the rest of the rifle.. I had intended to cut the inlet for the underlug with chisels, then as I was mounting the stock up in a vice to do it, I looked over at my router table and it's incra jig and fence and lift system, and figured, what the heck, it's not a PC thing, so why not use a modern tool with .0001 accuracy? so the keys I made didn't even have to stand up to the test of my chisel work. and there is exactly .005 clearance all the way around the inlet. :grin:
 
Hey that turned out really great. :thumbsup:
Is that a finish look after casting or did you buff out to that smooth look?
Did I understand correctly that you poured at about 550* degrees? That looks like tht would be hot enough to cause some damage but if I read correctly that's what you said!
Ive been wanting to cast some bolsters and guard from Pewter for some knifes, so I am trying to follow this closely!
 
The 4th picture shows it just as cast, right out of the form. The last 2 pics show it shaped, sanded to 1000 grit. Yes poured it at 550 degrees, it melts about 450, but I wanted it as hot as I could get it, so it didn't cool to fast when it hit the barrel and such, no problems. Actually, if the oven had a higher setting then 550, I would have tried it.
 
OK, so got the rifle finished, actually some time ago, been shot about 200 balls worth.. but wasn't nothing stirring in the woods yesterday, so had my period correct camera/phone/PDA/web enabled/GPS/alien locator beacon device with me and snapped a quick pic of the finished rifle..

f20008b0.jpg


Do think this winter I am going to "re-shape" the nose cap some.. and blacken the brass. I like an iron mounted rifle best. Looked at several of Mike Miller's rifles this weekend (He was at a 1700's trade fair near here.) Beautifull to say the least, but darn, I just like a more plain janeish rig.
 
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