Casting for 1st time. Do I have it all?

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I'm going to start casting my own Maxi balls next week. I think I have all the basics but sometimes there are additional items that make things easier/better. Though I'd ask.
What I have:

20# - 99+% lead from Midway
Lee production pot (flows from spout on bottom)
Ladle
T/C molds w/ handles
Rubber mallet
Leather gloves
Eye protection.
Candle
Old soft towel to catch bullets
Digital scale to weigh bullets

Generally how often do i have to "smoke" the mold? Just once or periodically?

I'll leave lubes etc. for another post if needed. Thanks.
 
I'm going to start casting my own Maxi balls next week. I think I have all the basics but sometimes there are additional items that make things easier/better. Though I'd ask.
What I have:

20# - 99+% lead from Midway
Lee production pot (flows from spout on bottom)
Ladle
T/C molds w/ handles
Rubber mallet
Leather gloves
Eye protection.
Candle
Old soft towel to catch bullets
Digital scale to weigh bullets

Generally how often do i have to "smoke" the mold? Just once or periodically?

I'll leave lubes etc. for another post if needed. Thanks.
You only need to smoke the mould once. A flux is needed to help separate the impurities out of the lead. It doesn't take much. As Dwight noted, a thermometer is very useful. I like to keep my lead at about 700~750 deg. I place my mould on top of the pot while the lead is warming up. Be sure your set up is in a well ventilated area. Every once in a while, you can find lead on ebay for around $2/lb. I also wash my hands with D-lead soap after casting.

Amazon link: d-lead soap
 
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Smoke as often as needed to allow the bullets to drop free.
You’ll need to “flux” the lead. This can be done with saw dust, beeswax, the butt end of your candle or Midways lead flux. The first three may produce smoke. Midways flux won’t.
Your lead should be 650 to 750 degrees to insure filling out the mold. The upper end of the temperature may cause frosting of the bullets.
 
A flea market silverware spoon to stir hot lead and scoop the impurities off the top will be helpful. Stirring helps the impurities rise to the surface in the pot. Instead of a rubber mallet , a piece of hammer handle or any hardwood 1 1/4 " dowel about 10" long , seems to cut through the sprue best.
 
Much appreciated gents. This should get me going just fine. I already have the other items except the thermometer.
I never used a thermometer
once the lead is melted and hot enough, good pure lead gets this light bluish sheen over the top of it (you have good pure lead)
also once it is hot enough when you dip the corner of the mold in the lead and let it come to temp, the lead just falls away from the mold
 
I never used a thermometer
once the lead is melted and hot enough, good pure lead gets this light bluish sheen over the top of it (you have good pure lead)
also once it is hot enough when you dip the corner of the mold in the lead and let it come to temp, the lead just falls away from the mold
Cynthialee, did i sell you 3 muzzleloaders some years ago? met at Cabela's?
 
Once you get the temps dialed in and a groove to your movements, you'll start pouring and dropping quality bullets in no time. The first drops won't be perfect but no problem...drop'm back in the pot and carry on! It's a lot of fun.
 
I never used a thermometer
once the lead is melted and hot enough, good pure lead gets this light bluish sheen over the top of it (you have good pure lead)
also once it is hot enough when you dip the corner of the mold in the lead and let it come to temp, the lead just falls away from the mold
Lead can become too hot without temperature regulation. At 900 deg., lead fumes is dangerous, and inhaled. I don't GUESS how hot my lead is. I keep a close check. Get a thermometer!
 
Lead can become too hot without temperature regulation. At 900 deg., lead fumes is dangerous, and inhaled. I don't GUESS how hot my lead is. I keep a close check. Get a thermometer!

Uhmm... no. 900F is not a problem. Lead does not start to boil, that is phase change from liquid to vapor, till 1740C. Lots of misinformation on this. Do some basic research on materials properties.

https://material-properties.org/lea...melting-point-thermal-conductivity-expansion/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead
The real issues surrounding casting are basic safety. Don't drink, eat or smoke while doing it. Don't go touching your mouth, picking yer schnoz, or licking fingers. Cast in a well ventilated area to remove fumes from FLUXXING. Don't cast with your head over the pot. Keep all liquids away to ban the tinsel fairy. Wear appropriate clothing- jeans (no shorts, cutoffs or with holes!), long sleeve shirt helps (I wear a long sleeve T in warmer months and long sleeve flannel in winter), leather shoes (synthetics can melt if you spill a bit) and always wear at least crew length socks to cover the ankles. I know someone who was not wearing socks and a bit splashed on his ankle, but he was a ladle guy too. Bottom pour avoids that issue. After you finish, change your clothes and wash your hands thoroughly and before eating, etc.

As for lead contamination, I have been casting for years with no elevation in lead levels in my blood. I cast Civil War minies at 875-900F because a large bullet requires temps that high and a fast pour for a decent production rate and low reject number. I do know a couple folks who did test high for lead. Both are avid shooters with modern handguns that frequent an INDOOR range. A main ingredient of modern centerfire primers is lead styphnate. Couple burning that compound indoors with splattering bullets on a backstop just 25yds away and presto, lead issues.

With all that scary stuff out of the way, casting isn't hard. Just practice reasonable safety and make bullets. You'll probably find that 750F is a bit low to cast a heavy bullet and get a good product. Raise the temp a bit before adding any tin or other metal to your melt. Frosted bullets shoot just fine. Cold cast, misshapen, Quasimodo looking ones do not.
 
I never used a thermometer
once the lead is melted and hot enough, good pure lead gets this light bluish sheen over the top of it (you have good pure lead)
also once it is hot enough when you dip the corner of the mold in the lead and let it come to temp, the lead just falls away from the mold
Same here. I use it occasionally to cross check the pots accuracy with the dial setting, other than that the projectile being cast will tell you if the lead is too hot or not hot enough and unless your using a high BTU propane burner to melt the average electric isn’t going to heat much over 900 degrees anyway.
 
Grab your rubber mallet, use a saw and cut the rubber end off, tap mold with wooden handle. Or use a old hawk handle, piece of dowel or a stick. Really the mallet thing will be awkward and burn the rubber anyway.
 
NOE Moulds sell a PVC-covered wooden mallet.
1650115460158.png
 
I never used a thermometer
once the lead is melted and hot enough, good pure lead gets this light bluish sheen over the top of it (you have good pure lead)
also once it is hot enough when you dip the corner of the mold in the lead and let it come to temp, the lead just falls away from the mold
I cast my first in ‘74, just cast two weeks ago, never yet used a thermometer.
Wrinkled ball, too cool, frosty too hot.
I think they were casting ball along time before thermometers for lead was invented
Not to say don’t use it, if you got it, but this ain’t brain surgery( it’s sorta rocket science 😂)
 

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