Casting for a Staghorn 209

[MOSPARKY]

Hi, I'm new to this forum and hope to be new to muzzleloading.A good friend gave me a new in the box CVA Staghorn 209 1:28 twist inline a couple of years ago.Money immediately got real tight and it has just sat sense.Money is still kinda tight and I admit "I'm a Cheapskate" It's killing me not to play with my new toy.I figured out there ain't nothing cheap about shooting CVA's recommended components.I also figured that if I cast my own and use FFg my cost per shot will be about a third of the cost for just one shot's worth of powder or a single powerbelt bullet.And that's not buying scrap lead,but buying it over the counter from a commercial supply house at $8 for a 5lb ingot.
What off the shelf molds do you recommend?The only ones I can find are the Lyman Minnies (don't like ) and the Lee REAL molds(much more to my liking)Are these my only two choices without going custom?
Also do I need to install gas checks.I've never cast before but have another friend that does,just not for ML.Do you quench them by dropping them in weter or let them cool naturally?
Thanks in advance
MOSPARKY

 

[Stumpkiller]

Welcome.

The only conicals I've ever cast are Lee R.E.A.L.s, which work well enough. I drop mine (and all my cast balls) in a upturned Frisbee containing two Neoprene mouse pads covered with a couple layers of aluminum foil. Heat resistant and soft. They cool enough to drop from the mould in seconds, but they need to sit a minute before you'll want to touch them with your bare hands. A heavy leather glove(s) is nice. And a hammer-handle to knock the sprue cutter is a help, but I know some casters who just push it open by hand (easier on the mould but harder on the hand). You'll need two gloves for that one.

You don't want water anywhere near where you're casting. A accidental spill into the molten lead can cause a steam explosion and throw molten lead all over. I'm not just talking a little splatter. I mean a hit-the-ceiling & blind-you-forever explosion.

I got my last 65 lbs of scrap lead for a six-pack. :thumbsup: Definately the way to go. Conicals are tougher to cast as the mold has to remain hotter so all the grooves fill out properly. I toss back 25% for wrinkles and underweight/underformed. I've switched to all round balls in my shooting, but you're kind of stuck with that twist.

No gas checks. I don't know of any m/l conical that is designed for them. It would be impossible to load from the muzzle.

 

[MOSPARKY]

Forgot to ask will I need to run them thru a lubri-sizer.If so It's starting to turn into a lot of equipment.My friend will cast them for me, but the mold becomes his.He may even throw some lead my way until my needs exceed his generosity/supply.(he owes me a few favors),But that makes me dependent on him and I can always use another new toy/hobby/skill.AT least that'll get me started shooting and limit my experimental investment until I know what I like and my gun wants.
If they have to be sized and I imagine they do,how do I decide what size?Iknow he does it for his centerfire ammo but neither one of us knows anything about ML.

Anyone else with mold info?

 

[Stumpkiller]

No. Lube/sizing would probably improve the accuracy, but it is not necessary. I lube mine with my fingers.

Think of it this way. Pushing it down 28" of barrel will size it pretty well to bore size. :: The blast and bullet's inertia upset it enough to fill the grooves the rest of the way.

You do want the purest lead you can find. No wheel weights or linotype. Muzzleloaders work best with soft lead.