Casting lesson learned

[necchi]

Awhile back I asked what I was doing wrong casting ball and got some great answers. I just thought I'd share my mistakes so others won't do the same.
To start, I'm useing lyman mold's and cooking pure lead on a coleman stove in a cast iron pot.

Some good advise I got was "Get a lead thermometer" That really let's ya know where yer at instead of guessing. Maybe it's because I'm "dipping" but I need to be really hot 750-800 or I get wrinkles.

My big mistake was not casting twenty or so scrap ball to get the mold hot.
I set the mold block near the fire next to the pot with the idea that I'd be pre-heating,,well the high uneven heat warped the sprue plate!
It warped enough so the sprue cut was being made at an angle,,that was enough of a shape or weight difference to open my group 2" at 50 yards. A rebuild kit from lyman for $11.50 included the plate and screws, and now I'm back to one hole :grin:

Another issue was lube,,I found using just a touch of Permatex anti sieze works great! It's rated at 1600 degrees and works for lee blocks too.

So thanks to advise here and practice,,I'm now saving a bunch by casting my own and even happier to be more self reliant.

 

[Billnpatti]

You didn't mention how you are pre-heating your mold now. The best way is to sit it so that one corner is in the hot melting lead. When the lead reaches casting temperature, your mold will be ready and you won't damage your mold that way.

I have not used the Permatex as a mold release agent so I cannot comment on it. My preferred way is to use the spray on stuff or just use soot from a candle. The candle soot works quite well and is likely the way it was done in the old days. I have also found that my wife's butane candle lighter will soot up my mold nicely, too. I may have to buy one before she catches me using hers. :haha:

 

[fyrfyter43]

The best way is to sit it so that one corner is in the hot melting lead. When the lead reaches casting temperature, your mold will be ready and you won't damage your mold that way.

I would be careful doing that. I know Lyman's directions specifically warn against putting a cold mould into the molten lead, as the blocks may warp.

I made a shelf that's attached to the edge of my pot that I use to rest my mould and dipper on to heat them up. They heat up slowly with the pot.

 

[necchi]

The best way is to sit it so that one corner is in the hot melting lead. When the lead reaches casting temperature, your mold will be ready and you won't damage your mold that way.

I would be careful doing that. I know Lyman's directions specifically warn against putting a cold mould into the molten lead, as the blocks may warp.

Yes, I read that too.

"You didn't mention how you are pre-heating your mold now." (from BnP)

I just begin casting. It takes about 20 ball, it takes time but helps me get into the rythm.
I'm really wary of further damage to them blocks, new they cost $60 nowadays.

I'm only useing the Permatex on/near the spur plate hinge and the block pins. I don't have trouble with the ball dropping if I open the plate far enough.

In the interm waiting for the Lyman parts I bought Lee blocks. And you gotta use something on those aluminum blocks or they won't close right. A tip here for anyone;;Lee is only making double molds nowadays, any singles available are old stock and will soon be a hard to find item;;

 

[4deer]

Does anyone ever us the Permatex for the mold cavity itself?

 

[fyrfyter43]

Does anyone ever us the Permatex for the mold cavity itself?

You never want to use something like anti-seize in the mould cavity.

 

[paulvallandigham]

NO! When I first begin to work with a mold- new or used-- I wipe the mold faces out with alcohol, several times, to remove all oils, greases, or whatever else someone put on them to keep them from rusting.

If you are using Aluminum blocks, my experience indicates its best to " smoke " the blocks with a candle, to get the cast bullet or ball to come out right. If you are using iron or steel blocks, smoking helps, but I have had good success with some molds without smoking the molds, too.

I wasn't expect this to happen, BTW. I just was in a hurry to cast up some bullets, and couldn't find where I put that candle stub I use for smoking the molds! :shocked2: :rotf:- Old Timer's Disease, you know!- :haha: :rotf: :surrender:

Oh, mold blocks are oiled, put in their original box, wrapped in oil paper, and then put in a plastic container( Tupperware, I believe), with a desiccant pack or three in the container to remove moisture.The oil paper helps keep the oil on the mold from evaporating, and the desiccant keeps any moisture that was in the plastic container away from the molds. My molds still look as good as the day they were purchased. Several have cast thousands of balls or bullets.