I've used similar moulds for pickett bullets. They are a pain to work with; the presence of what Andy Q describes as "wings" just makes it worse.
The best advice I could give would be to clean the mould, then clean it again with acetone. The goal is to remove all contaminants from the surface of the mould. Release agents (including smoke) tend to not work well in brass moulds, especially moulds for conical bullets.
Once clean, do NOT smoke the mould. Instead, pre-heat the mould (on a hotplate) to appx. 100-125 degrees C. Heat your lead to appx 450 degrees C. Cast several bullets quickly, until it takes about 15 seconds for the sprue to solidify. What you are actually doing is using the heat of the lead to ensure all contaminants are burned out of the mould; the bullets should all be recycled.
When actually casting bullets to shoot, use only pure lead. Because of the design of the mould, any alloying component will make the bullets more-difficult to remove (the diameter will be larger than pure lead). Again pre-heat the mould on a hot plate. Cast with your lead about 425-450 degrees C. Cast several bullets quickly, to get the mould up to working temp. The mould temp should be about right when it takes about 25-30 seconds for the sprue to solidify.
Cut the sprue and drop the bullet from the mould. If you need to tap on the mould to shake the bullet loose, tap only on the bottom of the (inverted) mould, and only do so with a light wooden mallet (I use a piece of broomhandle about 30-35 cm long).
