casting round balls

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shmrck1

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too all,
would like to try casting my own round balls. would start with .50 cal(.490cast) what would i need to get started without spending a lot of $$$$$.I'm not talking about casting 1000s a month maybe 50 to 100. i want what i need to do it right without spending a ton of $$. all i know is i need somekind of melting pot---lead & mold. what else,
where is the list exspensive place to get it
thanks for any help you can give me
snake-eyes :: :master: :peace: :)
 
too all,
would like to try casting my own round balls. would start with .50 cal(.490cast) what would i need to get started without spending a lot of $$$$$.I'm not talking about casting 1000s a month maybe 50 to 100. i want what i need to do it right without spending a ton of $$. all i know is i need somekind of melting pot---lead & mold. what else,
where is the list exspensive place to get it
thanks for any help you can give me
snake-eyes :: :master: :peace: :)
well the cheapest mold is a Lee. to melt it use a Coleman stove and a flat bottom castiron pot from Lyman. I would buy a Lynan or an RCBS ladle ...the Lee is just not as good
Lee mold ...$15.00
Coleman stove $20.00
pot ......$15.00
ladle...$10.00
total around $60.00
you can do better at the flea market or second hand store for the stove and castiron pot
 
Lee molds are a good starter point.

The "pot" can be an old cast iron skillet from the flea mkt or wall mart.

the ladle can be an old spoon with a "pouring nick" punched on one side. drill a hole in a piece of broom handle and poke the spoon into the wood to protect your hand.

You will need a small wooden mallet or a hammer handle to smack the sprue cutter.

Wear long pants, wear heavy leather gloves, safty glases.

We should have several long threads on casting in the archives. We do this one about once a month.
 
Snake-eyes, be fore-warned...you are about to enter a very addictive side line. It is very, very, interesting, adds a whole "nother" dimension to your loading / shooting, and keeps you constantly on the prowl for more alloy.

I started casting years ago, many years ago. And, study and try as hard as I might, I have only scratched the surface of the in's and outs of this game.

here is a picture of my "alloy stash" from back in the summer, bot near as healthy today as it was then..... that stack on the left is my "Pure Lead" and was about 550lb.... The little cards are the BHN or Hardness of the other ingots. The "Tin" is for mixing to get a better form to "as cast" bullets from some of the more complicated designs.

Alloys.jpg


Here are a few of the moulds I have. I now cast for about a dozen different calibers, sometimes with three or four different designs / weights in some calibers.

afewbulletmoulds.jpg


The majority of my moulds are by Lee. However. I do have Rapine, Lyman, NEI, RCBS, SAECO, 2 of Jeff Tanners mould's, and a couple from Dixie Gun Works.
This is the most expensive part of casting, the never ending "need" to update, renew, or replace the moulds.
But, at the same time, there is a certain excitement in making the bullet that made meat for the table.

So get in, get your feet wet, and get hooked like the rest of us.

Russ
 
I have used a Lee production pot, $40 from Track of the Wolf. And I also use Lee dies cuz they're CHEAP $13-16 and I'm Cheap. They make usable bullets, but as Russ said this is a whole nuther addiction. Watch yerself lest ya git into trouble and have to start shooting more jus so ya can cast more. Been doin it for 30 year and ya get caught up in it.
 
I have a "hood" with a vent fan in the basement where I do my casting, Helps keep the heavy metals out of your blood. If you like I can send a photo, or post one here as soon as I figure out how to do it.
 
(Quote) Watch yer back trail, (Quote)

Hey now, that there be my signature. Been usin' that one fer a spell now. Ya can borrow it fer a spell, but ya needs ta come up wit one a yer own. ::
 
I have a "hood" with a vent fan in the basement where I do my casting, Helps keep the heavy metals out of your blood..................

Yes! Ventilation, Good Ventilation! is a must in this game. Especially when you "scrounge" your alloys, like I often do.

I shoot a lot of Round Ball cast from Wheel Weights. It's that initial melting / fluxing that puts the fear of God in me with the fumes that comes off that stuff.... and for that reason, I do that initial melt outside. Once I've got them in ingot form, that "fear" is no longer there ,and I treat them as normal alloy. Although I'm sure none are no less dangerous than the other to your health if you don't ventilate well.

If Wheel Weights are a "God-Send" to the caster, then the Devil is certainly hiding amoungst them when you first melt them down.

Russ
 
The previous posts are pretty complete, just one thought, if you don't have a heat source ie coleman stove or the like, you can get a LEE electric bottom pour pot for close to the same money as a stove and pot. also check eBay casting stuff comes up there a lot. Just some thoughts for you to consider.
 
I have been considering this myself but was put off by the cost of a Lyman production pot I saw in their catalog. Now, after reading the responses here, I have new hope. After all, how did they do this back in the day? They had a lot simpler stuff than what we have now, and they made it work. Thats it -- I'am in! Now what? ::
 
I got a propane turkey fryer for Christmas. Would this do for melting the lead outdoors?
Jim

I don't see why not, I have used the side burner of my old propane BBQ grill, I believe this is why it was put there...
 
Way back in the '60s dad and I melted and made our lead weights for scuba diving. He just used one of mom's old pots. I don't remember where he got the lead.
I haven't taken the fryer out of the box yet, so I didn't know how big the burner surface is, or how far apart the spaces are.
Will a cast iron pan work for melting lead? Is there a material that is not good to use?
Jim
 
i would like to thank you all for your input!!!! thanks to
you all i think i have a plan at least to get started.
thanks again :master: :master: :master:
snake-eyes :peace: :) :thumbsup: :)
 
I have been considering this myself but was put off by the cost of a Lyman production pot I saw in their catalog. Now, after reading the responses here, I have new hope. After all, how did they do this back in the day? They had a lot simpler stuff than what we have now, and they made it work. Thats it -- I'am in! Now what? ::
A couple of years ago I picked up a new RCBS 20# bottom pour pot at a pawn shop fo $75...look around keep your eyes open
you never know what will show up that you can use in your Muzzleloading hobby! :) :winking:
 
check e-bay. there's usually some good deals on molds and melting pots
 
Howdy Folks -
Regarding what you can use and what you can't -

Lead melts at a pretty low temp, typically around 600 deg F
(roughly, of course, depending upon the alloy).

As a result, for a heat source, one can use a portable electric hotplate, a camping stove (LP or white gas), a campfire, a charcoal fire, a turkey burner (set on "low"),
gasoline or LP torch, etc etc.

Regarding a pot, I recommend that you stear clear of any aluminum vessels, as there is both the possiblity of contamination (minor) and the pot itself melting.
Stamped steel is inexpensive and popular lately, but Cast Iron is the vessel of choice, as it is both durable, and holds the heat very, very well. One could use a pan as long as one is careful, and of course the vessel must be dedicated to Lead Only use henceforward.

Shallow pans can be dangerous, both due to lead spillage or splashing, and the surface area exposed. Fumes are to be avoided, as well as lead dust.

Safety precautions include (at a minimum) Eye protection,
gauntlets, a good apron (leather or very heavy canvas) and good foot protection; work in an Outdoor or very well ventilated ; realize that splashes are hot and can go far; do not allow Children or other small animals in the area; DO NOT wear synthetic clothing! avoid distractions; try not to grab the hot end!

Some casters prefer not to use gloves, and one can in fact get away with minor "Lead splashes" on the hands beause of a peculair trait of molten lead: the temperature is at the right point to cause moisture in the skin to form a layer of otherwise imperceptible steam, thus giving an odd singe or blister but not "sticking" to the flesh. Blacksmiths experience a similar phenomenon with hot iron - howver, some metals DO stick...don't ask me how I know.... :-{

Safety is important. Try to think things through - such as, is this glove a good idea, or will the short wide cuff act as a funnel to direct molten metal right into my hand? Are cuffs on these overalls a good idea? etc etc.

Spilling a quantity 800 deg Lead into ones synthetic tennies and watching the molten mess stick to ones footsies leads to Trying to explain the severely charred flesh to Emergency Room Techs.

My one experience in the Emergency Room after deftly slicing some of my pinkies with razor-sharp Broadheads on my arrow shewd me that the Techs have an amazing sense of humor at one's expense - I sat soaking said pinkies in a stinging solution of antiseptic for many more minutes than necessary, whilst recieving visits from everyone on duty requiring me to "explain how you did that one more time" - followed by jovial laughter ringing in the hallway..:-(

perhaps one of our learned counterparts can find a useful webpage link for those requesting enlightenment!

Remember - there is no such thing as a Dumb Question. Only embarrasing and painful moments in the ER !

best regards, and
Melt Safely -
shunka
 

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