Causes of delayed ignition

[hung load]

It was my first time this weekend shooting my .54 sidelock Traditions Deerhunter and I was delighted. Finally got that ball removed thanks to the help of someone who lent me their rod. Also thanks to you board members who gave me encouraging comments.

Here's my question:

In my first half dozen shots there was almost no perceptable difference in time between the ignition of the percussion cap and the powder. They seemed to go off nearly simultaneously.

During later shots, (some with larger powder charges) there was a significant time delay between detonation of the percussion cap and the powder. What causes this?

 

:thumbsup: Clean thoroughly, dry breech with alcohol, not rubbing, clean the touch hole and blow through the bore from top down then from the TH, watch what comes out. Hang fires are usuall cused by manure in the bore.Good Luck.

 

[2172]

Lonesome Bob probably solved your problem, but sometimes I get a delayed ignition in my GPR because I have over-filled the pan. I find about one third full, and closer to the outside edge than the bbl works for me...I started doing this after advice here on the Fourm..Hank

 

[2172]

OOPS...I just realized I gave a flint answer to a percussion question...sorry...Hank

 

[Mad Professor]

Prick your nipple with a small safety pin after each shot to make sure its not clogged. After several shots snap a cap before loading the next, this will usually blow out any manure between the nipple and the breech. When doing this point the muzzle at a clean surface if possible and notice: 1) was there perceptible gas discharged indicating a clear channel, 2) was any crud blown out of the barrel.

Snow is great for this as the cap will blow up a puff of snow and any residue that comes out is readily seen. Probably don't have snow in Cal unless you're up in the mountains but sand works good too.

 

[Mad Professor]

Whoops looked at your handle and its 32 Cal not California. Snap your cap into the snow if you're up North.

 

[Landngroove]

Here's my question:

In my first half dozen shots there was almost no perceptable difference in time between the ignition of the percussion cap and the powder. They seemed to go off nearly simultaneously.

During later shots, (some with larger powder charges) there was a significant time delay between detonation of the percussion cap and the powder. What causes this?

Ignition in a percussion that is functioning properly, should be instant, not almost, or delayed. Were you using Pyrodex? Before initially shooting, did you wipe the bore free of all oils? Did you snap off a few percussion caps to dry the flash channel? Any of the above could cause hangfire. Also it is not a bad idea to swab the barrel with a solvent, such as Hoppe's # 9 Plus, or T/C # 13 Bore Cleaner, and follow up with a dry patch, after a number (to be determined by you) of shots. Follow this up with snapping a few caps to make sure flash channel is dry and clear.

 

[Swampman]

Many OEM nipples are not very good. There are some aftermarket nipples that are a lot better.

 

[robinghewitt]

Were you using Pyrodex?

That was my thought too :grin:

 

[WI Smoke]

My GPR was doing the same thing.
Bought a new Red Hot nipple from Knight, switched to 3f and was more careful of cleaning it after 5-10 shots
WI Smoke :grin:

 

[Doc Will]

Congrats Hung Load on yer new gun. Keep expermenting with powder and patches. One thing that has not been mentioned here about the delayed ignition problem is build up on the face of the breech plug. I have found that rifles that have a drum in the side of the barrel will build up a cake of residue on the face of the breech plug, unlike the rifles with the patent breech. Use a scraper and clean the face of the brrech plug. Somtimes this build up will get high enough to partally block the hole from the drum to the barrel. Thus causing you to lose a part of the ignition soure. Give a scraper a try.
Keep Yer Powder Dry :thumbsup:

 

[hung load]

I am indeed using FF Pyrodex.

When I had a load not fire at the range after two caps, I removed the breech cleaning screw and nipple and noticed both were pretty gummy, as you mentioned Doc.

I cleaned them thoroughly and ran a pipe cleaner through the nipple hole and breech and then reassembled and it fired fine.

Dirty stuff though, that Pyrodex.

 

[hung load]

landngroove -

I did all the things you mentioned at the outset of shooting, but was probably a half dozen shots or more deep when the problems began occuring, so it looks like it fouled over those shots. I just didn't know how long it would take I guess.

 

[Doc Will]

If your rifle does not have a patented breech. Put a scraper on the end of your ramrod and twist it around a few times on the face of the breech plug, then turn your muzzle down to the ground and you will be amazed at what can fall out. The face of the brrech plug can get a lot of build up. Cleaning the nipple and drum are a good idea occasionally too. The face of a brrech plug on a regular brrech plug is flat most of the time the patented breech ussally has a concave opening in it.

 

[marwat06]

Many good suggestions so far ... the only thing different I do is: after firing I slide my ramrod down the barrel and push the smoke into the nipple. By looking at the smoke leaving the nipple I can tell if it is time to swab the barrel or not. Works for me.

 

[Landngroove]

Pyrodex needs a good hot fire to ignite. It has a high flashpoint, so if the fire from the percussion cap is impeded in any way, hangfire, or no fire is the result. Continue your good cleaning practices, in preparing your gun to fire. If you have access to real black powder, Goex, I would try that. Real black powder has a lower flash point, than Pyrodex, and will ignite more readily. At one time I used to use Pyrodex, and even with a clean unfired ml, occasionaly I would get delayed ignition. What kind of muzzleloader are you shooting?

 

[hung load]

I'm shooting a .54 Traditions Deerhunter.

Because of the over-regulated gun laws in my state (NJ) it's virtually impossible to get real black powder. Pyrodex is about all that's available to me at a reasonable cost without paying ridiculous HazMat postal charges.

 

Good reply Doc Will, it's amazing how many people overlook the use of a fouling scraper. To add to that, I've found the use of a breech brush to be very useful.

 

[Landngroove]

If you continue to experience delayed ignition, even after cleaning, scraping the breach etc., and Pyrodex is all that is available, try Pyrodex P. Just reduce loads by 15%. Pyrodex P, is the equivolent of FFFG black powder. The finer grain should ignite easier, and burn cleaner.

 

[hung load]

Sorry, I'm ignorant about what a scrapper is. What does it look like?