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Cheap BP cleaning solution

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Mad Professor

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I was just reading last months Fur Fish Game and it was recommended to use a 50:50 mix of antifreeze:water as a cleaning solvent for black powder. A bonus is that antifreeze contains rust and corrosion inhibitors. Anyone tried this?
 
Haven't tried that one, but I have tried a lot of ideas and have one word of caution-be careful that what you use will not harm the stock's finish if you happen to get some on it. Found out the hard way about Windex!!!! Didn't treat my stock well at all. I just use rubbing alcohol anymore, or plain old water, topped off with bb when clean.

:results:
 
I use windshield washer solvent from the auto parts place. .99 a gallon, and works great! Never had a problem.
 
I use windshield washer solvent from the auto parts place. .99 a gallon, and works great! Never had a problem.

All I've ever used is water out of the tap with a drop of dishwashing detergent
 
Tried vinegar once, inside of barrel looked good, but it takes the blueing off very nicely. Had a yugo m48 with white streaks running down the barrel.
 
I used windex for years. Thought it was great, then recently switched to 409 cleaner. Use it on a patch. 3or 4, then a dry patch. More 409 patches if needed. When the dry comes up clean, don't flush the bore, just use a liberal amount of WD-40 to displace any left behind. Let it sit for maybe 20 minutes upside down, wipe out the WD and oil it. I was having after rust problems using the windex, but have so far, had none with this 409 method. I live in FL and humidity is a real problem. DO NOT let the 409 get on the stock finish. Thats why I said use it on a patch.
 
I would not use an anitfreeze mixture. What do you do with the mixture after you finished cleaning? You don't want to pour it down the drain or out in the yard. Antifreeze and pets don't mix. Pets like the sweet taste of antifreeze and it is poisonious to them.

Joel Lehman, Austin, TX
 
I had just been told that Fantastic works real well in cleaning. Has anyone tried it? :m2c:
 
I use plain water. No soap, just water and it cleans up BP reidue just fine and does Not take any more effort than any other cleaner.It is fairly cheap and available.
 
Anyone tried this? one third alchol,one third murphys oil soap.and one third hydrogen peroxide. Follow that after cleanup with a good swab of Mobil One synthetic oil.???? :hmm:
 
Anyone tried this? one third alchol,one third murphys oil soap.and one third hydrogen peroxide. Follow that after cleanup with a good swab of Mobil One synthetic oil.???? :hmm:
Peroxide is pretty corrosive, at least the higher concentration we used at the drag races in the old days was. Sure made a good fuel additive for power though. :peace:
 
Haven't tried it, but a 50:50 mix of Prestone & water ought to be a good winter cleaning mix. ::

I use hot water with a little soap (either shaved Ivory from a cake or Murphy's Oil Soap).

Aim't nuttin cheaper than water.
 
I would also avoid antifreeze (even weak dilutions). The stuff is super-poisonous, especially if you have kids, pets, or other animals that might get into a spill. Bad news!

I've used Windex, and the generic window cleaner sprays as well, but they don't clean as well as the SG.

The Orange Blast and similar cleaners smell really good, but I'm not too sure yet as they are alkaline in nature and may also affect the wood. I'd stay away from them for now.

The Purple Power and those cleaners are alkaline as well--some are pretty potent though. They will bleach wood and I just think that they are too harsh.

Of course, just plain water will work. I like to add a little dishwashing liquid. Those are mostly mild enough to not need rubber gloves for protection too.

BUT I like to use something that is dual-purpose, that I can use for both patch lube AND for clean up.

I've found that Simple Green (available in concentrated form or in diluted spray bottle), can be used for patch lube AND for the cleanup afterwards. It is non-toxic and biodegradable, and those are both good things. The SG stuff ain't the cheapest thing out there, but it doesn't smell bad and it does work well. Got this idea from a VERY good shooter who owns a gun shop too. It's got the most going for it as far as a store bought solution.

(Like how I put that in green to get your attention?)

I'm sure there are other combinations of things that will also work, but will they work as dual-purpose?. It makes good sense (to me anyway) to make sure you know exactly what the chemicals in those bottles can do to the metal & wood, AND if they are toxic, or biodegradable, et cetera.

I'm still open for suggestions though, as I found that "muscle rub" cremes will work for patch lube--but I doubt they would clean the bore that well? I might have to give them a try for that. Just never struck me to use it for clean up as it is sheds water pretty well.

Let's keep ALL those kinds of potentially hazardous chemicals away from the kids & pets.

Shoot Safely & Clean Safely too!
WV_Hillbilly
 
I would also avoid antifreeze (even weak dilutions). The stuff is super-poisonous, especially if you have kids, pets, or other animals that might get into a spill. Bad news!

WV Hillbillies know what they are talking about (my own mammy grew up in Frazier's Bottom, WV) :: I don't think you would get any appreciable benefit from antifreeze to justify the potential risks... check out any MSDS sheet for antifreeze, it is extremely toxic if ingested.

Hot water, a bit o'soap works just fine. :m2c:
 
rickC- Yes, I have used this mix for about five years. The hydrogen peroxide costs about a buck a pint, the 70% rubbing alcohol 48 cents, and Murphy Oil Soap maybe $3.50 a quart. Mix in thirds and keep in a dark bottle. Very little needed and those volumes will be enough for years of shooting. Also, the Murphy Oil Soap is made for cleaning wood, so I use the mix to clean the blackened parts of the stock. You can even use it for a patch lube. A friend, Lynn, uses it in her little left handed custom .40 flintlock built by her husband, Neill Fields, with a .375 pistol ball and Ox-Yoke patching. She won the last high-dollar blanket shoot here (entry prize worth at least $100, about 15 shooters). I have never had any after-rust, and sometimes wait till next morning to oil the bore, just to see if it will rust. Very low humidity here, or I would oil it right away. And I also stand the muzzle down to drain any exess away from the flash hole or powder drum. For patch lube, I use half Murphy Oil Soap and half 91 % isopropyl alcohol (less water against the powder). Either pre-wet and keep in a cap can, or use a squeeze bottle at the bench. Can shoot as much as I want with no wiping or cleaning. See my post in Flintlock 8/01/05, "Swiss and Goex 2F and 3F compared". You can also use straight Murphy Oil Soap as a patch lube, it is almost a grease. I have not yet shot a long string with that, so don't know how well it works.
 
Antifreeze and pets don't mix. Pets like the sweet taste of antifreeze and it is poisonious to them.
Joel,
You are absolutely right on that point...
i found out by accident, :cry: snake-eyes
 
All this to do about nothing. :) Water is all I need and use. I used to use the advertised stuff but it didn't make it any easier.
 
I was just reading last months Fur Fish Game and it was recommended to use a 50:50 mix of antifreeze:water as a cleaning solvent for black powder. A bonus is that antifreeze contains rust and corrosion inhibitors. Anyone tried this?

Powder fouling is easy to take off with just soap & water. Remnants from the bullet is what requires more cleaning power. Good gun oils are not expensive. One bottle is cheaper than a box of bullets or sometimes the purchased lead. A few drops or the touch of a spray nozzle oil can will cost you a nickel-tops.

It costs you more money to turn on your computer monitor & hard drive daily. What's a nickel when discussing or partaking in a sport you love? :peace: :peace:
 
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