Cheapest northwest trade gun kit?

[tenngun]

I'm not going to lie it all still seems a little intimidating. I'm confident I can solder but I can't accurately cut metal. I consider my wood working less than mediocre. I'm willing to learn and I really want to try my hand at it some day but money is tight (not hurting or anything just limited fun money), I don't have alot of the tools I think I'll need, but I love the idea of making my own gun. So I'll try to psych myself out.

Would it be better financially to have them do all the barrel work or do it myself? (I have access to a torch but no soldering materials)

Like I said my wood working may be abysmal. Unfortunately I'm not a good judge because I've done so little and what little I have done isn't very great, obviously I guess for a beginner. But how hard is it really to shape the stock if I got a half stalk as they call it? Would that be more worth it to get the full stock? (Got files and sandpaper but no chisels or planer or anything more advance than hand saws etc.)

Staining and finishing wouldn't be an issue. I'm sure I can drill and tap but I only have access to hand drills and a tiny jewelers vice. Might be able to find an old vice in my dads scrap pile.

Anyway sorry about the long post but for anyone who feels like giving advice feel free to be brutally honest and opinionated. Thanks!

Outside of soldering there isn’t much in the way of metal work unless you buy raw castings from the rifle shop.
Even if you get cast brass it’s just a matter of smoothing. Ramrod pipes, but plates on trade guns and side plate are ready as is.
Barrel needs buffing a bit of draw file and sanding
The side plate needs to be smoked then wiped to make detail pop.
Screw holes need be drilled and taped but that’s amazingly easy, just buy the tap set with drill.

 

[Rob M.]

Which kit is this one bud ? Good job !

Won’t fit on an Indian trade gun. The Indian imports sell muskets and muskatoons and carbines
The Indian imports can be shot as is, but to get a better gun need the stock shaved down and the ramrod replaced with hickory. The barrels are too bright and need some dulling.
The kits need the a lot of fitting. The tang side plate,butt plate,trigger need inletting. The lock needs final fit. The gun needs breech plug fit, underlugs fitted and soldered, and drilled, and ramrod pipes inlayed. Sight needs soldered on.
Lots of wood needs removed from the fore stock. Sanded and finished.
View attachment 169147View attachment 169148View attachment 169149View attachment 169150View attachment 169151View attachment 169152View attachment 169153About one hundred hours.

 

[tenngun]

Which kit is this one bud ? Good job !

Track of the wolf

 

[FlinterNick]

Track of the wolf

Discontinued

 

[Jason holgate]

D9nt be afraid to look used flea markets yard sales estate sales auctions even wanted ads in blue sheet orboutdoor trader papershop sporting News

 

[Jason holgate]

Just a thought go to a club shoot some swe if anyone's sellu g or knows of anyone

 

[FlinterNick]

I would just part one out, the lock you want and follow a pattern.

Not a difficult build,

The only thing I don’t do is the 45 degree tang screw. I put a brass nut next to the trigger.

 

[Rob M.]

I used Laurel Mountian Forge walnut and cherry, It turned out lighter then I wanted.
The original guns were on European walnut unless made in America then it was on American walnut. Better color shotView attachment 169407
Around the campfire I have heard some American and Belgium made were on beech, but I’ve not seen that documented anywhere.
The buyers expected a look to the guns, Brit, American and Belgium guns were almost identical.
Most today are made on maple or the Indian on teak. Walnut adds a bit to the price. If you get maple stay away from figured and stain as dark as you can, or it looks wrong.
Another note is barrel finish. I like brown, and originals you see are likely to be brown. This is on account of age. Originals were blued.

Originals trade guns were blued or browned . Bluing became more common at the end of the 18 th century and into the 19th , cheaper faster method than browning ... One order from the HBCo has half the guns with brown barrels and half with blued barrels .... Here is an order for browned barrels

 

[Rob M.]

I used Laurel Mountian Forge walnut and cherry, It turned out lighter then I wanted.
The original guns were on European walnut unless made in America then it was on American walnut. Better color shotView attachment 169407
Around the campfire I have heard some American and Belgium made were on beech, but I’ve not seen that documented anywhere.
The buyers expected a look to the guns, Brit, American and Belgium guns were almost identical.
Most today are made on maple or the Indian on teak. Walnut adds a bit to the price. If you get maple stay away from figured and stain as dark as you can, or it looks wrong.
Another note is barrel finish. I like brown, and originals you see are likely to be brown. This is on account of age. Originals were blued.

So ....the NW gun your holding there ....Where / who did you buy that kit gun from ? Thanks .....

 

[wganz]

Not that hard. Measure 3 or 4 times. Eyeball it again to make sure. There are YouTube videos out there showing people actually doing it.

True confession time. For my Military Heritage Brown Bess carbine replica, I had it dropped shipped to @ColonialRifleSmith and had him do the honors. Highly recommended.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Thanks! Ya I've been considering one from them or Loyalist Arms. Everyone else seems over priced but I don't know their warranties or policies, maybe their better but I've seen military heritage reviews and most seem positive. I think Loyalist has them ready to go out of the box though. Not that I can't drill a touch hole. I just think their policies my cover more because you don't have to modify it.

It's not just drilling a touch hole. More times than not, you drill into the breech lug. Then you have to remove the barrel, pull and notch the breech plug, and reinstall the breech plug. (this has to be done correctly so the musket is safe to fire) Reinstall the barrel. Not for a novice to attempt. Semper Fi

 

[FlinterNick]

Just a thought go to a club shoot some swe if anyone's sellu g or knows of anyone

There is a very strong following on northwest trade guns. Information is readily available.

Clay Smith has a good selection of very early trade guns that fit into the F&I and Rev War periods.

Caywood has a very good selection of kit builds, as do other suppliers.

All parts to build one are very much avaialble, hardware is very simple and concise, the serpentine side plate can be purchased at track of the wolf or muzzle loader builder supply or rifle shoppe.

I have two different trade gun lock patterns, as does Log Cabin Shop and a few others.

The challenging part of a northwest trade gun build is when you want to proof stamp and make it indicative to a specific era in the fur trade.

 

[WalnutRed]

I used Laurel Mountian Forge walnut and cherry, It turned out lighter then I wanted.
The original guns were on European walnut unless made in America then it was on American walnut. Better color shotView attachment 169407
Around the campfire I have heard some American and Belgium made were on beech, but I’ve not seen that documented anywhere.
The buyers expected a look to the guns, Brit, American and Belgium guns were almost identical.
Most today are made on maple or the Indian on teak. Walnut adds a bit to the price. If you get maple stay away from figured and stain as dark as you can, or it looks wrong.
Another note is barrel finish. I like brown, and originals you see are likely to be brown. This is on account of age. Originals were blued.

My first muzzle loader was a Belgian trade gun that I purchased at a yard sale in the early 1970s. It may have been intended for the African market as the lock plate was dated 1861, however it was a flintlock. The stock was beach with a light walnut stain.