Chipped Out a Pin Hole

[Valkyrie]

Ugh. Finishing g the assembly of my Kibler WR and was installing the entry thimble. Was using a piece of pin stock that was too long and the thimble wasn’t seated in the inlet correctly. It chipped out a small piece on the stock. I made up some maple dust with sandpaper and a scrap piece I had, mixed it with some iron nitrate into a paste and packed it into the tiny little chip. Heated it and it turned the right color. Then I hit it with water thin cyano glue. Sanded the area level, touched up the bare wood with iron nitrate, heated it up and refinished with sealer. Basically invisible as the chip was not even a 16th of an inch.

Then after the finish set up, I came in from the other side and did the exact same thing. Doh!!

Rookie mistake. Wasn’t thinking. The inlet for the thimble had a bit of gunk in it keeping the thimble from seating correctly and it misguided the pin as it passed through. The second wasn’t as bad and it was not fully chipped out. I glued the piece down flush, colored the outline sanded flush, iron nitrate, heated and sealer.

But the repair is not noticeable and a trained eye would have to look for it. But it still bugs me. Oh well. It will get worse hunting with it over the coming seasons.

 

[andy52]

I wish more kit makers would offer escutcheons to prevent that sort of thing from happening, they make a big difference when taking down the rifle in the future.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I wish more kit makers would offer escutcheons to prevent that sort of thing from happening, they make a big difference when taking down the rifle in the future.

Pretty easy to make your own. Just a thought.

 

[2 shots]

you can also buy them pre cut.

 

[andy52]

Pretty easy to make your own. Just a thought.

True, but you have to be able and have the tools do the inlays.
This would an after the fact sort of project I'm suggesting they be pre-cut but the kit maker.

 

[Valkyrie]

you can also buy them pre cut.

This is the repair. It’s tiny.

 

[wiscoaster]

I'm thinking that's one of those things that nobody else other than yourself ever notices.

 

[FlinterNick]

Ugh. Finishing g the assembly of my Kibler WR and was installing the entry thimble. Was using a piece of pin stock that was too long and the thimble wasn’t seated in the inlet correctly. It chipped out a small piece on the stock. I made up some maple dust with sandpaper and a scrap piece I had, mixed it with some iron nitrate into a paste and packed it into the tiny little chip. Heated it and it turned the right color. Then I hit it with water thin cyano glue. Sanded the area level, touched up the bare wood with iron nitrate, heated it up and refinished with sealer. Basically invisible as the chip was not even a 16th of an inch.

Then after the finish set up, I came in from the other side and did the exact same thing. Doh!!

Rookie mistake. Wasn’t thinking. The inlet for the thimble had a bit of gunk in it keeping the thimble from seating correctly and it misguided the pin as it passed through. The second wasn’t as bad and it was not fully chipped out. I glued the piece down flush, colored the outline sanded flush, iron nitrate, heated and sealer.

But the repair is not noticeable and a trained eye would have to look for it. But it still bugs me. Oh well. It will get worse hunting with it over the coming seasons.

I’ve never worked on a Kibler kit, but from what i understand the holes are pre-drilled. Now that doesn’t mean you can just throw the pin in there without doing any work. You may still have to debur the pins. I also lubricate the pin holes with mineral oil or chapstick.

As far as fixing the chipped area

I would use a thin super glue and glue back, use a wooden down to burnish the area after it’s dried. Steaming the spot with a rag and iron will also raise up the grain so any seams blend into the stock. After it’s stained and oiled, it should be very much unnoticbiel.

 

[Valkyrie]

I’ve never worked on a Kibler kit, but from what i understand the holes are pre-drilled. Now that doesn’t mean you can just throw the pin in there without doing any work. You may still have to debur the pins. I also lubricate the pin holes with mineral oil or chapstick.

As far as fixing the chipped area

I would use a thin super glue and glue back, use a wooden down to burnish the area after it’s dried. Steaming the spot with a rag and iron will also raise up the grain so any seams blend into the stock. After it’s stained and oiled, it should be very much unnoticbiel.

Pretty much exactly what I did for the most part but the tiny little piece I had to fill because it was lost.

 

[Valkyrie]

I'm thinking that's one of those things that nobody else other than yourself ever notices.

Yep. Lol. The rifle is gorgeous though. I left the lock bare steel just polished it up to 800g paper and burnished with 000 steel wool. Same with all tye screws. I used cold blue on the barrel burnished back to a light gray with steel wool after draw filing. The brass mountings are all finished to the same 800g finish and antiqued with cold blue and burnished back.

I did a Colonial a couple years back in a similar manner but the stock I made much darker amd the metal also. Took my first flintlock deer with it last winter. Hope to get one with this woodsrunner next week. It’s a ,54. Going to the range Thursday to get it dialed in.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Been there done that!

I learned that once the stock oil has dried the pin holes get plugged up which can cause the pin to go off course when installing it. I always "carefully" run a finger drill through my pin holes to clear them out and insure the metal piece is aligned before re-installing the pin. I never force the pins as I'm tapping them in.

Good job repairing it.

 

[Valkyrie]

Been there done that!

I learned that once the stock oil has dried the pin holes get plugged up which can cause the pin to go off course when installing it. I always "carefully" run a finger drill through my pin holes to clear them out and insure the metal piece is aligned before re-installing the pin. I never force the pins as I'm tapping them in.

Good job repairing it.

Thanks. It’s almost invisible. I’m pretty happy with the rifle. Can’t wait to hunt with it.

 

[Boomerang]

This is the repair. It’s tiny.

Oh, it's a hideous repair! You probably can't stand to look at it, so you better send it to me!

 

[EC121]

I have a Jessie Brennan(son of Jud Brennan) rifle that has the pin holes slightly coned. Looks like he was planning ahead and twirled a small drill bit in the opening of the holes. It is almost unnoticable.

 

[Valkyrie]

Oh, it's a hideous repair! You probably can't stand to look at it, so you better send it to me!

Lol! It’s growing on me. I’ll see how I feel next week!

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Been there done that!

I learned that once the stock oil has dried the pin holes get plugged up which can cause the pin to go off course when installing it. I always "carefully" run a finger drill through my pin holes to clear them out and insure the metal piece is aligned before re-installing the pin. I never force the pins as I'm tapping them in.

Good job repairing it.

Good advice! I take a diamond stone on the pin ends to round off the 90 deg edge so it doesn't hook wood as easily.
Larry