I might call this cheating, however I put the pin in an electric hand drill and get it acquainted with the hole from both sides before final installation.
Chipped Out a Pin Hole
- Thread starter Valkyrie
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Look fine to me.
If you are building it to sell maybe it matters but if you are building for yourself, it does not matter at all.
If you are building it to sell maybe it matters but if you are building for yourself, it does not matter at all.
Escutcheons aren't appropriate on many styles. This is especially true with pins.
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Hi,
First, use good spring stock for pins and round the ends so they don't catch wood. Second, if it is a barrel pin that may be removed periodically, make it slightly shorter then the width of the stock. That way when tapped in flush with the stock on one side, it does not reach the other side leaving a shallow hole. That hole can the guide your pin punch the next time you remove the pin. That eliminates accidentally denting the stock when the punch slides off the pin head. When you chip a small piece out from a stock I urge you to repair it as I describe. Take a 1/8" or smaller gouge and cut a football shaped depression across the chip in the direction of the grain. Then, using the same gouge on matching scrap wood, cut out a football shaped chip the same size with the grain running the long dimension. Use super glue to glue the chip into the depression you made on the stock with the grain in the chip aligning with the grain in the stock. Hold it tight on the stock with a rubber band. When dry, sand flush and stain as you would the stock. The chip will virtually disappear.
dave
First, use good spring stock for pins and round the ends so they don't catch wood. Second, if it is a barrel pin that may be removed periodically, make it slightly shorter then the width of the stock. That way when tapped in flush with the stock on one side, it does not reach the other side leaving a shallow hole. That hole can the guide your pin punch the next time you remove the pin. That eliminates accidentally denting the stock when the punch slides off the pin head. When you chip a small piece out from a stock I urge you to repair it as I describe. Take a 1/8" or smaller gouge and cut a football shaped depression across the chip in the direction of the grain. Then, using the same gouge on matching scrap wood, cut out a football shaped chip the same size with the grain running the long dimension. Use super glue to glue the chip into the depression you made on the stock with the grain in the chip aligning with the grain in the stock. Hold it tight on the stock with a rubber band. When dry, sand flush and stain as you would the stock. The chip will virtually disappear.
dave
CuNosecap
45 Cal.
I wish Dave had told me this 25 years ago! I had to learn this trick the hard way. It really is best practice and I do this on all my builds.
I also agree that escutchens may be a nice way to prevent tearout, they typically only appear in later styles and would be inappropriate for most "golden age" flintlocks.
CuNosecap
45 Cal.
BTW, the short end or hole left on the side where pin is below surface catches was and dirt etc and is then invisible
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Does anyone really care if the pin hole is invisible or not? How many original guns are the pin holes invisible?
Is this the thing that you worry about.....really?
Is this the thing that you worry about.....really?
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Hi,
I don't think CuNosecap considers that the most important but simply a side effect. Moreover, I have examined original guns in which pins are a little short and the holes filled with stuff accumulated over the years such that they virtually disappear. I've had original guns to disassemble that I had to find pins I knew had to be there but have disappeared over time. This is especially true when soft iron wire was used for the pins. They corrode and the rust blends into the color of the stock.
dave
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Having debris fill the holes over time is fine and totally acceptable, worrying about whether your Kibler or Pedersoli pins are visible is a little to anal retentive IMHO.
Worry about why your flinter is not getting proper ignition or why you cannot shrink your groups is a better use of your time, again IMHO.
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If the pins are well rounded on each end helps too.
CuNosecap
45 Cal.
I guess I live in a perfect world. My flinter always fires, my groups are always the size of a nickel and my poop doesn't stink. That leaves me to only worry about the wax in my pinholes.
Just havin' fun folks. Lighten up Francis.
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No please... save the dust from sanding your stock down and mix some of it with your chosen finish and make the pins invisible...
Then after you shoot it, drive the pins out and remove the barrel for cleaning, after cleaning mix some more of the dust with your chosen finish............Repeat, really I want you to do this....
Then after you shoot it, drive the pins out and remove the barrel for cleaning, after cleaning mix some more of the dust with your chosen finish............Repeat, really I want you to do this....
