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chisels....lesson learned.

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How are chisels correctly sharpened?
I use a fine diamond stone for any serious work, like if I got a small ding in the blade. If they start getting off-angle from stropping, I put them in my engraver sharpening guide, and bring them back to true. For stropping, I have some top grain leather glued to a piece of wood, about 3" X 12". I use Simichrome from the Harley shop for a stropping compound. When ever I have to stop and ponder my next step in a process, I have the strop and a chisel in hand, touching up the edge, whether it needs it or not.
 
It is always nice to have a bunch of high quality tools, but it is far more important to know how to use the few that you have and in skilled hands even the crudest of tools can turn out expert work. Take a look at the work done by this Moroccan craftsman if you have any doubt about that.

Moroccan Bow Lathe - YouTube

As I said earlier many years ago I purchased a set of cheap Asian palm chisels. The steel was fine, but soft and that was quickly remedied by a quick heat treatment. I treated them the same as any other simple high carbon steel and they have performed fine for me over the years. I now have much higher quality chisels, but these ones have earned their place in my kit and I will never get rid of them.

The three penny knives pictured below were ones I made, most of my turning was done with hand made tools ground out of old files. The tools perhaps would look crude to an accomplished turner, but I have made them do what I need them to.
 

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This thread reminds me of a story I once read about Hershel House. He was visiting a friend who had just finished building a rifle. The man was a good craftsman but could not engrave so he asked Hershel if he would engrave his name on the barrel for him. Hershel agreed and after looking around the mans shop found an old rusty piece of broken file. He quickly ground a proper cutting edge on it and masterfully, signed the mans name on the barrel.
Expensive, high quality tools are nice to have but the hand that holds the chisel is the most important part of the equation.

I have a butt load of chisels but I have found that 90 percent of the inletting required to stock a rifle is done with the same three or four chisels, best to buy the ones you need instead of a set. Another thing, expensive high end chisels are useless if you do not know how to maintain and sharpen them. Clean, precision inletting requires razor sharp tools.

I was going to stay out of this thread but I can't help myself, This subject has come up before and my thoughts on buying expensive chisel sets was not very well received. If you are a part time builder and you are going to build one or two rifles buy you some affordable chisels. Do your homework, learn how to sharpen them and regrind and temper them if necessary. Learn how to use them. I have nine rifles and pistols under my belt. i have found that experience has served me better than the the price I payed for my chisels. Just my thoughts, YMMV
Would you please describe the “3 or 4” chisels you use the most?
 
Would you please describe the “3 or 4” chisels you use the most?
It seems this day and time, no one wants to make any suggestions. They fall into the trap that they harp about all the lawyering making products useless; afraid someone will take issue with it.

If I were a seasoned carver, I'd tell you. However, I would state; "This is what I use with the understanding that it might not work for you.
I wish you good luck in finding out what others suggest.
 
If you need some straight, carpenter type chisels, the DeWalts from Home Depot are super sharp and seem to hold up well. They're made in Sheffield, if that means anything today.
I also bought a Narex 1/8" pairing chisel and it came very sharp and seems to hold up well.

I bought a 1/4" DeWalt chisel from Ace this weekend based on this information. I couldn't find Sheffield anywhere on it, or any other country of manufacture for that matter, but other sources on the internet back up the Sheffield manufacture, and only a minor amount of work was needed to get it sharp enough to shave my arm hair. They might not be the prettiest chisels but for the price and quality I'm sold.
 
I needed a 1/4" palm chisel at work one day and made this one in about an hour from a scrap of wood and a convenient masonry nail. Holds a a very good edge, could use the same technique to make other straight chisels, or with a bit of forging some small gouges and V tools.
 

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This thread reminds me of a story I once read about Hershel House. He was visiting a friend who had just finished building a rifle. The man was a good craftsman but could not engrave so he asked Hershel if he would engrave his name on the barrel for him. Hershel agreed and after looking around the mans shop found an old rusty piece of broken file. He quickly ground a proper cutting edge on it and masterfully, signed the mans name on the barrel.
Expensive, high quality tools are nice to have but the hand that holds the chisel is the most important part of the equation.

I have a butt load of chisels but I have found that 90 percent of the inletting required to stock a rifle is done with the same three or four chisels, best to buy the ones you need instead of a set. Another thing, expensive high end chisels are useless if you do not know how to maintain and sharpen them. Clean, precision inletting requires razor sharp tools.

I was going to stay out of this thread but I can't help myself, This subject has come up before and my thoughts on buying expensive chisel sets was not very well received. If you are a part time builder and you are going to build one or two rifles buy you some affordable chisels. Do your homework, learn how to sharpen them and regrind and temper them if necessary. Learn how to use them. I have nine rifles and pistols under my belt. i have found that experience has served me better than the the price I payed for my chisels. Just my thoughts, YMMV
Good info but what are the specific 4 gouges you use?
 
I too can't stay out of this group of comments. !/4 " wood chisel , home made 1//8" wood chisel , and again I use frequently a 1/16" chisel , the last two wood chisels ground from screw drivers. Now ,I have no fancy b.s. phone camera , so all I can do is present a graphic explanation of my next most used chisels. Take a standard 1/4 " wood chisel , and grind a 1/3 to 1/4 " moon "shape , on the point end. This chisel is rocked over the pencil line made on wood , where inlays are laid on wood , and traced around. And or, when a carving pattern is drawn on a gun stock , say behind the cheek piece . Once the surface wood of the carving pattern is broken by rocking this 1/2 moon shaped chisel , then the actual dimensional part of the pattern can be exposed. The best thing a 1/2 moon rocking chisel gives, it goes around curves , in a carving pattern. Think about what was just said , many carvers do this initial work , with a carving knife point. Either I'm too stupid and uncoordinated to use a knife point, or perhaps the young fellow from Colonial Williamsburg gun shop , had a better idea he shared with me , about using hand ground , rocking chisels . Actually , I have three sizes of these rocking chisels. 3/8" for long lines and curves , 1/4" for medium curves , and a couple smaller ones ground for tiny curves in carving patterns. I can't use a knife point for lining work , because whenit skips across a carving pattern ,due to my clumsy missteps , lots of fine carving is ruined , and must be sanded out and redone.
Another thought to ponder......Always remember , we are trying to emulate an 18th century art, with 18th century tools. Initially , in the early 1970's , I bought a hand full of expensive engraving tools. I found out through practice , I only needed two or three engraving chisels to copy original work. I hope this helps someone . I like "easy" , rather than "hard".. ........oldwood
 
I too can't stay out of this group of comments. !/4 " wood chisel , home made 1//8" wood chisel , and again I use frequently a 1/16" chisel , the last two wood chisels ground from screw drivers. Now ,I have no fancy b.s. phone camera , so all I can do is present a graphic explanation of my next most used chisels. Take a standard 1/4 " wood chisel , and grind a 1/3 to 1/4 " moon "shape , on the point end. This chisel is rocked over the pencil line made on wood , where inlays are laid on wood , and traced around. And or, when a carving pattern is drawn on a gun stock , say behind the cheek piece . Once the surface wood of the carving pattern is broken by rocking this 1/2 moon shaped chisel , then the actual dimensional part of the pattern can be exposed. The best thing a 1/2 moon rocking chisel gives, it goes around curves , in a carving pattern. Think about what was just said , many carvers do this initial work , with a carving knife point. Either I'm too stupid and uncoordinated to use a knife point, or perhaps the young fellow from Colonial Williamsburg gun shop , had a better idea he shared with me , about using hand ground , rocking chisels . Actually , I have three sizes of these rocking chisels. 3/8" for long lines and curves , 1/4" for medium curves , and a couple smaller ones ground for tiny curves in carving patterns. I can't use a knife point for lining work , because whenit skips across a carving pattern ,due to my clumsy missteps , lots of fine carving is ruined , and must be sanded out and redone.
Another thought to ponder......Always remember , we are trying to emulate an 18th century art, with 18th century tools. Initially , in the early 1970's , I bought a hand full of expensive engraving tools. I found out through practice , I only needed two or three engraving chisels to copy original work. I hope this helps someone . I like "easy" , rather than "hard".. ........oldwood
Thanks. And yes we are trying to mimic guns of yore
 
i had the worst time convincing the ***** working on a 300.00 piece of wood (me) that a 50-60 dollar chisel was a good investment.
until the cheap chisel the *****(me) was using hogged out a big chip on the lock inlet.
then the ***** listened.
Some of us don't learn by listening to others but we don't forget the lessons taught when we realized we should have listened.
 
The Schaaf bench chisel set arrives pretty dull, to be fair they would be totally fine to excellent for general carpentry and general finish carpentry in softer woods and they are impressive when compared to box store chisels. The angles aren't bad and the heat treat is good. I sharpen on a glass plate, I had to start with 320 grit to flatten the back dead nuts and finished with P5000. When I am using them touch up is done on 3000 and then 5000 on the glass plate, it's plenty to keep them scary sharp. I don't strop these, the 5000 paper is plenty to keep me nervous. I also bought the Schaaf carving chisels, the grinds were misshaped and they were fairly dull. I returned them with no issue and bought Pfeil, no issues with them. I touch them up on 3000, and then 5000 paper while using them and they work great. Schaaf also offers a professionally sharpened set of carving chisels, I haven't seen them so I don't know how they compare but if the steel is as good as the bench chisels I would think they would be good to great. I returned the set I bought because I don't have the tools or knowledge to shape them so they can be sharpened, not a ding on Schaaf as it was very clear when I purchased them that they needed sharpened, I overestimated my capability in that area.
 
For a straight chisel look at the Narex Richter chisels they are highly rated - (www.leevalley.com). For carving chisels, I would stick to the big-name brands - Pfeil, Two Cherries, Hirsch, Henry Taylor, Ashley Iles and other big-name chisels.
BUT even the big-name chisels will need to be stropped up when received to perform to their max.
NOTE: don't buy sets just buy individual chisels this way you get the ones you will need and use instead of ones that you may only use on rare occasions.
 
For a straight chisel look at the Narex Richter chisels they are highly rated - (www.leevalley.com). For carving chisels, I would stick to the big-name brands - Pfeil, Two Cherries, Hirsch, Henry Taylor, Ashley Iles and other big-name chisels.
BUT even the big-name chisels will need to be stropped up when received to perform to their max.
NOTE: don't buy sets just buy individual chisels this way you get the ones you will need and use instead of ones that you may only use on rare occasions.
That’s what I’m trying to find out . I would like to know what specific size gouges I would need for incise and relief carving. Can u give me the ones u use the most. I don’t want to buy whole sets if I wouldn’t use them all they’re too expensive
 
Japanese chisels are also worth considering.. they are made from laminated steel with a glass hard back and soft face.. they are designed to be used with hardwood and may not meet everyone's taste, but worth getting one to try... Ice Bear are a good brand.

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I have a chisel I made out of an 1/8" square tool steel lathe bit set in a file handle. It is very good for inletting triggers and keyways. I also have a sort of chisel made from a bit of ground hacksaw blade, again for making mortice cuts for things like barrel keys.
 
That’s what I’m trying to find out . I would like to know what specific size gouges I would need for incise and relief carving. Can u give me the ones u use the most. I don’t want to buy whole sets if I wouldn’t use them all they’re too expensive
I don't do much carving on my stocks but when I do I use small straight chisels that have a blade under 3/8" wide. I'll also use small sweep chisels that have gentle curve to them no larger edge than 1/2". Most with a short to medium length handles. Carving chisels are of a style that fits your way of carving what works for me may not work for you.
 

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