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choosing 36 caliber

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re-enactor

36 Cal.
Joined
Jan 21, 2012
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Hi,

This is my second post on site and I'm not new to shooting black powder. I am planning to build my first long rifle as a flinter and my initial leaning was 50 caliber for the barrel. Not being a hunter yet, should I go for a 36 caliber and develop proficiency in shooting before I go for the 50 or 54 caliber one needs to hunt deer? I apologize for the question, but is 36 caliber ideal for more than squirrel hunting? It seems like 36 caliber would be ideal in terms of a lighter weight gun, and ideal for revolutionary war re-enacting, squirrel hunting and target shooting, please tell me why 36 caliber might make sense for this newbie.
 
For one thing you will get more lead balls in a bag, or package, or they will be cheaper in cost. Generally a .36caliber will also use less powder per charge than it's more bigger cousins. SO the cost per shot is lower in that regard also. That way a 1lb can powder will last longer.
If cost to operate is a consideration these items may affect your choice.
 
I too was in doubt wether to take a small .32 or .36, or a larger .50 or .54...
I settled on a .45 and I am quit happy with it..
Les powder and lead than the bigger cals, but greater reach, up to 120 yards than the smaller cals...
But the choosing itself can be great fun! Enjoy!
 
If you're going to build your own, you should accept the certain and storied fact that this will be the first of several guns which you make. There is nothing wrong with this: this is, in fact the natural order of things in the world. Some of us were destined to tinker with little bits of flint, and some of us were destined to win the Nobel Peace Prize. As for myself, I'll spend the plane ticket to Norway on little bits of rock and be more than happy. You will build more guns.

(Insert Mad Scientist laugh here BWAHAHAHA!)

If you're going to hunt deer, I would go with a .54, which provides plenty of 'whompability' with almost no difference in felt recoil over the .50.

if you might hunt smaller game, like Quirl or bunnies, and you have your heart set on a rifle, I would recommend a .40. (By the way, Colerain makes a really light A weight barrel in .40, swamped with radius groove rifling... more than i had hoped to spend, but well worth the money.)

If for some reason you can only have one gun (yea, right, that's like eating only one pistacio or having only one fountain pen or only one straight razor) I would give a look to a .62 / 20 gauge smoothie, which will get you 'minute of deer' accuracy out to fifty to seventy five yards, and will provide good patterns for tree rat, bunny and turkey.

As regards becoming proficient, i would recommend that you practice with whatever rifle you pick, rather than pick a 'practice rifle' - shoot what you will carry in the woods, and you'll be confident when that Boone&Crockett buck comes around the corner.

While it's true that a smaller caliber is less costly to shoot, I would posit that the differences are de minimus in the grand scheme of things, unless you're comparing a .36 to a 20 gauge, but even then, shooting blackpowder is cheaper than centerfire, and the whole mess is a whole lot cheaper than a lot of other pastimes. What does the average guy spend on beer and soda and chips at the superbowl party? CHA-CHING! or, if you have kids, ever looked into what it would cost to actually provide your kid with the pony? (hint- it's about a car payment, not counting the initial cost of the horse)

OK- I'll climb off my soapbox before I fall down and hurt myself. This, after all, just one guy's free opinion and doubtless well worth the money.

Good luck with you build in whatever caliber you pick. When you get started, send us pictures... we LOVE pictures!
 
I have been shooting blackpowder for over 40 years and never built anything more than a TC kit or two though I always wanted too. I also always wanted to build my own cedar canoe or kayak and finally built one a little over a year ago. I have now built three cedar boats. I bet rifle building will be the same. I hope to put together a TVM Tennessee this year and if I am lucky someday build a rifle from scratch. I am telling you all this to say go with what you want as your mind will change over and over. My first was a TC Seneca .36 which I never should have sold but did. It was great for short range target but would not hold up for the distance. I took lots of small game but had to shoot a maxi for deer and hogs. Our deer here are only about 100 pounds max, most under 85 pounds so it did ok. My next rifle was a Uberti .53 caliber Hawken. I was over gunned for me in these woods and it was tiring to shoot in a long match or target shooting session. I finally settled on a custom Vincent .40 and have shot it happily for many years. It is great for target, loaded down I have taken all sorts of small game and even predators. With 60-65 grains of 3F it has been sufficient on our small deer and feral hogs. I now have a .50 and a .40 in flintlock and find I still reach for a .40 more often than not. Build what you want and for what you are doing right now and then in a week or two after you finish you will already be deciding what the next rifle build will be and what you will do different on the next one. JMHO :idunno:
 
"I apologize for the question, but is 36 caliber ideal for more than squirrel hunting? "
Targets, squirrels, rabbits, and other small game will all fall with a .36. Check your state's game laws about using it for anything bigger. Alabama requires .40 or larger for deer, and .40 or smaller for small game. My .40 has "Do-All" engraved on the top barrel flat. See what your state requires first.
 
If you're going to only hunt small game, then a .36 is a good choice. I use 000 buckshot in mine.
 
I also favor the .40
I run .40 for small and .54 for big.
I can't build :rotf:
But??? If I had it to do all over??
I'd have dumped all my apples on a 54-62 smooth rifle.
Boy would that have been a looker because of the $$$
I have tied up in these.
If your starting out just build something as it is only a stepping stone.
 
The .36 is a splendid choice for a "do everything" rifle as long as you don't hunt anything larger than, say, coyote. It's as economical and friendly as can be but if you want to hunt deer a .45 (ideal IMHO) or larger is called for. Where legal the .40 is a better all around choice though marginal for deer.
 
MSW,

I am still thinking about building the Northwest Trade Gun in the .62/20 gauge as a possible first build. Thanks for mentioning that one as an alternative build to the long rifle. I had the impression that the TOTW kit in the trade gun might be an easier build, but who knows.
 
You also mentioned that you thought a 36 cal would be lighter in weight to carry around. This is not always the case. It all depends on the barrels length and width. Many small caliber longrifles are actually heavier than the bigger calibers.
 
Very true. I have a friend with a .36 he plans to rebuild and that barrel feels like an anchor. I think he plans to shorten it.

In another case there's my TVM .36 SMR which weighs between 5 & 5.5 lbs. It's a 3/4" x 38" barrel and the little rifle is a joy to carry.
 
It's a "one of these days..." things but I would dearly love to have a .36 flinter with a very slender light weight barrel. If I ever happen upon another wooden stocked "Deerhunter" flinter it just might be the starter.
 
Quite a few years ago I had Matt (TVM) make up a .36cal late Lancaster for me and I love that rifle today just as much as when I first received it. Weight with the swamped barrel is just as a like them and not at all nose heavy. I've got a lot of game with it over the years up to coyotes.

Vern
 
If you plan to build a 36, I recommend you use a fast twist barrel of say 1-30 rather than the standard of 1-48. The reason for this is it is easier to get the rifle to shoot real well with a very light load that will not blow a squirrel in half. My TC Seneca 36 cal like 40 grains of 3F Goex and that load is pretty hard on squirrels. If you do not plan to hunt small game it won't matter. Both the 36 & 40 calibers are real nice to shoot.
 
If going small go 32.
0 buckshot will work for balls and one will do anything the other will.
Nothing wrong with a 36 though so its your choice.

Dan
 
Twists faster than 48" are not needed. The old Douglas 32s with 66 were very accurate.
If I had a choice I would use 48 for almost everything. But GM only uses 48 in 32-36.
For some strange reason we are wanting to go faster and faster on the twist for RBs, at least some are, when its entirely unnecessary and might not even be desirable.
Dan
 
Having shot a 36, for longer than any other caliber I own, one little foible of shooting this small caliber is that it doesn’t do well in the wind. This is a minor issue I will admit, but beyond 30 yards a 10 to 15 mph cross wind can have enough of an effect to cause a miss. It has happen to me more than once. So just be aware.
 

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