So looking at the leather kits from ACW kits and the cap pouches and cartridge boxes seem pretty straightforward. I was wondering about the bayonet scabbard on how that stitching is done and still be form fitting for the bayonet? Anyone ever done one of these or made any triangular bayonet scabbard? I have some leather working experience but seems a little more advanced.
I began making 18th and 19th century repro triangular bayonet and sword scabbards in 1980, after finding out how to make the stitching and basic construction techniques from Colonial Williamsburg.
1. Are you trying to make a rather exact copy of a U.S. scabbard? If so you will need a repro brass tip. The repro tips are available on other sites.
2. Locally/home made Confederate copies of the scabbard may or may not have had the brass tip, though Confederate Arsenal made or contracted scabbards usually had them.
Here is a pic of the most common way the scabbards were stitched and it was done by what is called "butt stitching," where the ends of each side of the leather are sewn end to end so the joint is flat and the edges are sort of "puffed up" on top, from the thread.
https://www.horsesoldier.com/products/edged-weapons/bayonets/45313
Butt stitching is done by using a curved awl and curved needles. Art Stohlman's SUPERB book
The Art of Hand Sewing Leather shows you how to do it. Go to this link to get a free online, page by page illustration of this book.
https://archive.org/details/20240425_20240425_1415/page/n31/mode/2up
On the scale of pages below the illustrations, go to (32 of 72) and you will see the first and second pages of how to do butt stitching. Left click on the right side and the next pages will add more details. The following illustration is the first page you will need to consult.
Colonial Williamsburg had wooden forms of the blade around which the leather was stitched after it is soaked in water. Though I've made two or three dozen period of these scabbards, I have never made such a wooden form. I cut out thin cardboard pieces to tape onto each of the three sides of the blades and temporarily tape them around the blade with any masking tape I have on hand. This makes the blade just enough "oversize" so the bayonet will go in and out easily after stitching. Then I always used the blade with saran wrap or plastic to cover the blades so they won't rust, when using them as a form and when allowing the leather to dry overnight after stitching.
If you have more questions, please ask.
Gus
