Cleaning 1858 Remington

[DaleNabq]

Thanks for all your help.

I found an exploded parts diagram and some basic info on taking it apart. Once have an idea of what your into, it's not too bad. I took out every screw. Only thing didn't take apart was some pins on the loading lever.

A couple more stupid questions:

1. Some screws were pretty tight and some were ready to fall out. I'm assuming that thay should all be snug so don't fall out, but not real tight in the interest of getting them out later???

Same for nipples?

One screw I should have noticed more closely is the hammer spring screw. I believe it was basiclly flush with the frame in front. However, not sure if should be snugged up or there should be some space behind the spring where it fits in the bottom of the frame??? Otherwise the screw is in a little further than I remember it being...Anything critical about this?

2. Lubrication? See info suggesting anything from modern lubricants, olive oil, ballsol, to bore butter. I've been using bore butter on my flinter, but not sure how good of a lubricant for friction parts it may be.

I'm guessing that it somewhat depends on whether shooting bp or a substitute--with bp may want to use non-petrol based lubs while with tripple 7 or American Pioneer Powder may want to use modern lubricants??? Not sure where Goex Pinnacle falls.

3. Seems like for chain fire reasons that even though American Pioneer Powder (Pinnacle also?) says not to use lube (that it will increase fouling if lube touches the powder) that may still want to use a lubed wad or perhaps better yet some lube one the front of the cylinder?

Thanks again,

Dale

 

[DaleNabq]

Thanks for all your help.

I found an exploded parts diagram and some basic info on taking it apart. Once have an idea of what your into, it's not too bad. I took out every screw. Only thing didn't take apart was some pins on the loading lever.

A couple more stupid questions:

1. Some screws were pretty tight and some were ready to fall out. I'm assuming that thay should all be snug so don't fall out, but not real tight in the interest of getting them out later???

Same for nipples?

One screw I should have noticed more closely is the hammer spring screw. I believe it was basiclly flush with the frame in front. However, not sure if should be snugged up or there should be some space behind the spring where it fits in the bottom of the frame??? Otherwise the screw is in a little further than I remember it being...Anything critical about this?

2. Lubrication? See info suggesting anything from modern lubricants, olive oil, ballsol, to bore butter. I've been using bore butter on my flinter, but not sure how good of a lubricant for friction parts it may be.

I'm guessing that it somewhat depends on whether shooting bp or a substitute--with bp may want to use non-petrol based lubs while with tripple 7 or American Pioneer Powder may want to use modern lubricants??? Not sure where Goex Pinnacle falls.

3. Seems like for chain fire reasons that even though American Pioneer Powder (Tripple 7 & Pinnacle also?) says not to use lube (that it will increase fouling if lube touches the powder) that may still want to use a lubed wad or perhaps better yet some lube one the front of the cylinder to prevent chain fires?

I can't seem to edit this so quoted instead...

I guess that homemade wads with no grease, little grease, or grease only on the ball side would prevent chain fires?

Also, will filler eliminate chain fires so don't need grease for bp substitutes that say don't use lube?


Thanks again,

Dale

 

[rebel727]

One screw I should have noticed more closely is the hammer spring screw. I believe it was basiclly flush with the frame in front. However, not sure if should be snugged up or there should be some space behind the spring where it fits in the bottom of the frame??? Otherwise the screw is in a little further than I remember it being...Anything critical about this?

That screw adjusts spring tension. All the way in will have the most tension making a harder hammer pull.