Let them do it. (Medical use of leeches is coming back, in a limited way.)oh i do, but on some things it makes more sense to me to do things the way i think is better. like ridding in a vehicle instead of ridding a horse or walking, or cleaning your gun with modern chemicals and not water. and if i get sick enough i go to a modern doctor instead of putting leaches on my body. LOL ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Just curious about the bottom of the barrels are waxed? I have my very 1st flintlock. How do I wax the bottom of the barrel ?I never remove a pinned barrel for cleaning. Even if the gun gets wet I don't worry too much. The bottom of the barrels are waxed - wax renewed every year or two - and never had problems.
then stand it muzzle down in the rack with a white paper towel under the muzzle. Leave it like that for a week or so to let the excess oil migrate out and away from the breech.I may get some beef for saying:
Disassemble the gun. Dunk lock and barrel in hot water and pump it. Take compressor blow gun and dry it up. Spray Brakleen in touch hole and over the lock. spray Ballistol in TH and all over the lock. Run a few ballistol patches and wipe barrel with a Rem oil cloth. Reassemble. Then wipe entire gun with presoaked Rem cloths. Sounds involved but it takes me 8 minutes in the garage.
Put your chemistry caps on boys, it's important to first understand that the residue from blackpowder is corrosive, it is a completely different animal than most are accustomed compared with modern cartridge firearms. The residue that remains after firing is actually a type of salt, it isn't the kind of table salt you put on your food, but it is a salt just the same...............
Agreed!
For the last 20 years or so I have used MAP(4parts Murphy’s Oil Soap, 6parts Isopropyl alcohol, 6parts 3% Peroxide). I don’t claim this to be the best cleaning method, and have used most all the methods described in this thread for my first 20 years of shooting. They worked fine but I can’t say they weren’t messy, cumbersome, and the results often less then desired.. First, to debunk a myth. The very low peroxide concentration(<.01%) in THIS {water-alcohol-soap solution}, will not corrode or damage the barrel(inside or out) when exposed for the short cleaning period described. The acidity is very low at this concentration. Putting that chemistry cap on........While the residual salts in the barrel will be dissolved in water, or soap and water, the carbon residues are NOT water/soap soluble. You may physically lift the carbon with scrubbing and/or hot water , but more often then not carbon(graphite) residue will remain in varying degrees, subject to build up, particularly in the breach/seams....The residual carbon residue can retain 5-15% water. The effects of this are certainly debatable, but my personal preference is to remove all carbon when cleaning. The peroxide component of the mixture, even at such a low concentration, combined with approximately 5 minutes exposure time, will chemically COVERT the carbon to carbon dioxide(CO2) gas, leaving no carbon residue. You can many times feel the CO2 gas release as you remove your thumbs after inverting the barrel. The water/soap/and alcohol components of the MAP solution accelerate the dissolving of the greasy salt residues. After 5 minutes and inserting the barrel a few times filled with a few ounces of MAP, you can simply pour out the solution, rinse once with an ounce or two of alcohol(or water), wipe dry, and lube the barrel. During that 5 minutes I’ll clean the lock/barrel area. After 20 years the barrel/breach areas of my rifles still appear as new when bore-scoped.. Surely this method is not HC/PC, but then again neither are the contemporary steels, lubricants, black powders, etc. many of us use............
And so few recipesSo many ways to skin a cat....
Just curious about the bottom of the barrels are waxed? I have my very 1st flintlock. How do I wax the bottom of the barrel ?
No.Does the wax melt and leak out when you are shooting?
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