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mdbrown

32 Cal.
Joined
Aug 24, 2011
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newbie question

in the am i fire, a half charge of powder only to dirty up the barrel , then i hunt for the day or half day whatever the case may be. the question i have is how do i keep care of my barrel properly? should i run an oil patch down it after its got the ball seated and test that for accuracy so my barrel doesnt rust during the day?
 
Why dirty up your barrel? I always start with a clean barrel, when I load the prb for hunting, the lube from the patch protects my barrel if I don't get a shot at a deer that day.
 
Well, I don't dirty my barrel before loading. I do however wipe a clean patch with my bear grease and swab the bore lightly after loading up for a hunt. You could use borre butter in place of that, I did use that for years doing the same thing until I switched.
 
I would never fire to foul a barrel before loading for a hunt unless I knew for certain I would be cleaning the barrel that day. I never leave a fired barrel uncleaned. Not ever.

I load my gun at the beginning of the season and leave it loaded until I shoot at a deer. That can be as long as from mid-October to mid-December in my state. I've never had a spot of rust in my barrel when I finally clean it, don't understand why there would ever be any rust in a barrel loaded when clean.

I've never seen that a fouled barrel has any advantages. Of all the guns I've owned and shot over many years, not a single one of them did better with a fouled barrel. When I'm shooting percussion I also don't fire caps to make sure the nipple and ignition channel are clear. When I finish cleaning my guns, I know for certain they are.

What's the purpose of running a greased patch down after loading? The last thing I do in loading is run a ball wrapped in a greased patch down, what good will another one do which that one didn't?

Spence
 
:haha: I have a certain routine I do each and every time to ensure my gun fires when called upon, I'm sure you do too. Just always done it whether its needed or not. Works for me... :thumbsup:
 
And then run a greased patch down your bore so you can be happy like Swampy. :haha: :thumbsup:
 
Swampy said:
:haha: I have a certain routine I do each and every time to ensure my gun fires when called upon, I'm sure you do too. Just always done it whether its needed or not.
I certainly do, and it must work, because I've been doing it for many years. :grin:

Here's a reason for firing a fouling shot which I've never heard any modern shooter mention. It's from a book by Cleator in 1789:

"When the piece is fired, it should be re-loaded immediately, whilst the barrel is warm, lest by delaying it, a certain moisture should be formed in the barrel.....

"For the same reasons, the sportsman should fire off a little powder before he loads the first time, for it has been found, even in the driest seasons, that the coldness of the barrel, and perhaps some little moisture condensed in its cavity, has sensibly diminished the force of the powder, in the first shot."

Spence
 
The problem with relying on the one patch wrapped around the ball to adequately grease the entire bore,and grooves, to prevent rust, is one of patch thickness, the amount and kind of patch lube used, and the condition of the bore when that first PRB is run down the barrel.

I prefer to deal with any possible condensation in the barrel by flushing the barrel with isopropyl alcohol. That also dissolves and evaporates and oil/grease that is in the flash channel. I follow dumping out the dirty alcohol with a drying patch or two to remove the remaining alcohol liquids, and to dry the bore.

The thicker the patch, the more lube it can carry. However, when you have a very long barrel, that lube may not be enough to grease the entire length of the bore, thoroughly. Its the skipped parts that are open to rust, then.

Using a second CLEANING PATCH greased with a non-petroleum lubricant, provides a larger Patch size, and MORE GREASE to Thoroughly lube the entire length of the barrel in front of the PRB, to protect the barrel from rust the entire day- and for days and weeks later, if you don't unload the gun after an unsuccessful hunt. That extra grease also FEEDS the smaller patch around the ball, as the ball exits the barrel, so that there is no chance that the patch will burn from having been starved of its grease while loading the gun.

I started MLing with a POS foreign-made gun that had wide grooves and thin, shallow "Lands" that were little more than burrs. The gun required very thin patches, and tight fitting RBs to shoot well. I learned the HARD WAY about how much grease a thin patch could( and cannot) carry. And I learned what happens using FFFg powder in that gun instead of FFg powder, and how important it was to find a load combination that allowed me to use a thicker patch to hold more lube.

I don't have any problem with some shooters, who live in mild weather parts of the country, and can get away with just running a lubed patch around a lead ball and not worry about rust for months when the gun is left loaded.

I am sure that is Exactly your experience. However, in other parts of the country, you would have a ruined barrel in a matter of days doing what you are doing. The added grease to a barrel cannot possibly hurt your gun in any way. It might just save it should you venture out of your usual hunting territory and wander into some other climate conditions.

For those reasons, I will stick to running that extra patch- this one a large, 3" square cotton cleaning patch with grease--- down the bore of my .50 caliber rifle, to protect all 39" of the bore from rusting during a hunt.

I have had that gun on hunts when the temperatures were in the low teens in the dark of the morning, and had risen up to the low 50's by mid afternoon, melting the ice and snow that covered the forest floor when I walked out to my stand before daylight. I have another gun with me when the hunt began with temperatures in the 50s, and dropped down into the low twenties by late afternoon. My rifle has been in the field when a storm blew up and it was rained on before we could make it back to camp. On another hunt, the stock took on so much moisture that I could not pull the Ramrod out of the stock, until the gun dried out overnite in a motel room. All this occurred in hunts in central and Southern Illinois.

In all the hunts were I was smart enough to take the precaution to grease the bore AFTER I had loaded my PRB, I have encountered NO rust in the barrel. I have been using Young Country 101 lube, a predecessor of Wonderlube, as my patch lube for this purpose for more than 20 years now. I think the wax helps to hold onto the oil, and keep it on the surface of the steel bore better, than when only an oil is applied to the bore.

Obviously, from posts above, other's opinions, and experiences vary from my own. I am happy for those shooters. :hatsoff: :hatsoff:
 
thanks for the help , im off looking for an Idaho whitetail.
maybe pictures on here later 9 days left of the season to go
 
Personal opinion is that intentionally fouling a bore prior to hunting is the worst thing anybody could do.
After going to lengths to get my bores squeaky clean/dry/lubed as they are when I load them for a hunt...the last thing in the world I'd want to do would be to intentionally foul them and then leave them that way for some unknown number of hours.

In addition, I live/hunt year round in a region of North Carolina known for its above average and often very high humidity...I've never wasted my time running another greased patch down a loaded bore after already seating a patched ball already wrapped in a lubed patch...don't know any experienced hunters who do that.

Same thing for the past 40 years with the houseful of Remington, Winchester, Savage, Marlin rifles and shotguns...never lubed the bore of any of them after loading them either...and things don't get much wetter than out duck hunting on the water in the rain...never met a hunter who did that to his centerfire rifles and shotguns either...a steel bore is a steel bore.

You really need to exercise caution with theoretical advice given out on the Internet...
 
I make sure my rifles are zeroed to place the first shot out of a clean barrel where I want it. I oil my barrels after cleaning and clean the oil out with alcohol on a patch. Then I run couple dry patches down barrel. Next I run a dry patch down the barrel and pop several caps. When the patch is removed if the nipple & etc is clear the patch will have some burn marks on it. If so I'm ready to load it. Once the rifle is loaded, I put some black tape over the muzzle.
 
Paul, if I had to go through all the gyrations you and many others do in order to shoot BP, I'd give it up. Chemical warfare ain't in it. The main thrust of my BP activities is learning to do things as the old boys did, and I've found that to work with no problems.

The lube on my one patch does more than needed as far as greasing the bore is concerned, because the bore was already clean, dry and greased before I began loading. No fouling shot, no need for extra lubrication. But, I've also carried my guns for many hours in all kinds of conditions after having taken a shot, and just that one patch on the ball does everything needed, they don' rust.

Mild weather? I live in Kentucky, and we have enough rain and high humidity at all times of the year to go around, thank you. And I never let the wet stop my hunts, my guns are out in it, but I have no concerns about rust and ruin, pig fat and elbow grease take care of all of that.

Many shooters go way beyond what I've found necessary in tending to their guns and doing their shooting, and that's OK. It's their hobby, they can do it however they choose. My goal is not only simplicity but authenticity, and I doubt it Ol' Dannel did most of the stuff advocated by the experts these days.

Spence
 
roundball said:
Personal opinion is that intentionally fouling a bore prior to hunting is the worst thing anybody could do.
After going to lengths to get my bores squeaky clean/dry/lubed as they are when I load them for a hunt...the last thing in the world I'd want to do would be to intentionally foul them and then leave them that way for some unknown number of hours.

In addition, I live/hunt year round in a region of North Carolina known for its above average and often very high humidity...I've never wasted my time running another greased patch down a loaded bore after already seating a patched ball already wrapped in a lubed patch...don't know any experienced hunters who do that.

Same thing for the past 40 years with the houseful of Remington, Winchester, Savage, Marlin rifles and shotguns...never lubed the bore of any of them after loading them either...and things don't get much wetter than out duck hunting on the water in the rain...never met a hunter who did that to his centerfire rifles and shotguns either...a steel bore is a steel bore.

You really need to exercise caution with theoretical advice given out on the Internet...

Agreed, all the way around. I'm dealing with 120 inches of rain a year and heavy salt air in the breaks between the rain. Not a molecule of sweat until you leave fouling in a bore.

I've come around to the point that I don't even pop a cap before loading. It occurred to me that I don't pop a pan of prime before loading a flinter, so why should I need to pop a cap? I just remove the nipple and clean the flame channel and nipple with alcohol-wetted, then dry pipe cleaners, and it's done. Similar for flinters- I just shove the pipe cleaners into the vent.

Greasing the bore after loading? :rotf: If it's a clean bore in the first place and you're using an oiled patch rather than spit or some other wet lube, it can stay loaded for weeks without a speck of rust. I'm talking duck hunts on saltwater here, and large game hunts in the same places. I sometimes leave a charge in a gun for several days before getting a shot. Just the nature of hunting several days in a row before getting a shot.

Here's some fine tuning tips. Stretching a strip of electrical tape over the muzzle is good for keeping out rain and saltwater. It causes no problems when shot. In between hunts I plug the vent on flinters with a toothpick to keep the humidity away from the powder. I cover the nipple with a strip of leather and lower the hammer to keep the humidity from the powder in them.

I just started an experiment. I had to go on the road for 2 months, and rather than empty my SxS shotgun and three rifles (two cap and one flint), I just wiped the exterior surfaces real good and put them in the rack. I'm looking mostly at how well they fire once I get home, and I have zero worries about rusty bores, though I'll certainly check. Should be interesting enough to report back once I finally get home.
 
Back to the thinking behind your bore fouling, one thing worth pointing out Mdbrown, is that I do all my load testing with "one shot groups" fired from a clean bore. It's a royal PITA, but I load test and sight in for where the gun is going to hit from a clean bore on the first shot.

That means at the range I fire my shot from a clean bore, then thoroughly clean it back to the condition it will be with the first shot on a hunt, load and fire again. Three to five shots that way produce my "one shot group," and I base my load choice on it, as well as my sight in.

Lots of times the results are absolutely no different than when I shoot multiple shots without cleaning the bore, but some guns just want to put that first shot from a clean bore in a little different place.

The clue is that when I shoot a conventional group without cleaning, my first shot hits outside the group of all subsequent shots.

Sometimes a change in load (especially lube/patch) cures the flier. But sometimes not. I'd rather have the first shot from a clean bore right on the money and count on a little Kentucky windage for subsequent shots than to foul the bore each time.

Sounds nitpicky, doesn't it? Kentucky windage for subsequent shots is not such an issue with big game rifles, but I do a whole lot of small game hunting and it's important there. I'll certainly dink with my load to try to eliminate the first shot flier, but I still go on doing my one shot groups.
 
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