Cleaning Jag Type?

[newtewsmoke]

Investarms also has a deep patent breech that keeps a standard jag from reaching the bottom by about an inch.

...and there in-lies the problem. A man has to get creative when needing to get a sufficient scrub on them patent breeches. :wink:

 

[coloradoclyde]

Can't say i'm a big fan of the patent breech.

 

[Al Bently]

Having once had the fun of removing a jag which was left in my guns barrel after the threads snapped off I have "fixed" all of my remaining jags by installing steel threads.

The problem with the brass threads is brass is pretty weak and if it is subjected to high stresses, it will work harden making it brittle. Weak + brittle = broken threads.

To fix the problem I filed off almost all of the existing brass threads and then center punched a dimple in the center of the remaining thread.

Using the correct size tap drill I then drilled a hole 3/8 to 1/2" deep.
I threaded this hole with the correct tap. (I have both #8-32 and #10-32 range rods. Don't ask me why)

Once threaded, I installed a common steel 5/8 inch long set screw into the jag with about 5/16" sticking out of the face. I used Loc-Tite thread locking compound to secure the set screw in place.

As for which style cleaning jag? I haven't seen a difference between them and I have both styles.

I think I would have handled it differently. I likely would have removed the barrel and grounded it to an arc welder. Then I would have used a heavy piece of gas welding rod as an electrode (you could shield it with plastic tubing if necessary), pushed it against the broken jag and turned the welder on momentarily.

(Chucking the electrode rod into a TIG torch would even be better as one would have greater control of the juice.)

Even with the dissimilar metals that should have created a fairly good resistance weld. Then I would have clamped the electrode into a bench vise and pulled on the barrel...

 

[Al Bently]

I think the OP said in another post he was getting a 54cal T/C hawken. likley a 3/8 rod. For me that's borderline for a button jag so I would go with the latter.

I don't own a 54 cal so maybe someone that does will chime in.

Then the answer is "neither". T/C used a stepped breech chamber and the jag needs a smaller nose and a bore sized shoulder.

That's what came with my Hawken.

 

[Tinker2]

I think I would have handled it differently. I likely would have removed the barrel and grounded it to an arc welder. Then I would have used a heavy piece of gas welding rod as an electrode (you could shield it with plastic tubing if necessary), pushed it against the broken jag and turned the welder on momentarily.


Even with the dissimilar metals that should have created a fairly good resistance weld. Then I would have clamped the electrode into a bench vise and pulled on the barrel...

You don’t think that it would arc from the jag to the barrel?



William Alexander

 

[hawkeye2]

Yes it would have unless you had some way of running an insulated ground down the barrel alongside the electrode till it reached the jag.

 

[Al Bently]

Possibly if one tried to tap the electrode to actually start an arc or used too much power from the beginning. I think if the (pointed) electrode was pushed tightly against the jag and the barrel was well grounded, a resistance weld (spot weld) between the electrode and the jag would take place first. That would be the time to stop.

Grounding the jag vs. the barrel wouldn't make any different -- the two are not insulated from one another. If one made the mistake of having poor jag/electrode contact and/or used excessive power above that needed to create the resistance weld, then problems could arise.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Well that explains it . you have that old WWII brass not the cheap crap from china we get today. :rotf: :thumbsup: :blah:

thanks pal.yer on the list now. :slap:

 

[thatoneguy82]

Sounds a lot more risky and complicated than it needs to be.

If its your gun and you know its empty you could put some pan powder under the nipple or through the touch hole.

If its loaded and there is nothing else doing, then its greas zert time

 

[newtewsmoke]

Possibly if one tried to... If one made the mistake of... then problems could arise.

and thats just it...I don't think i'd try it.

 

[Wes/Tex]

thanks pal.yer on the list now. :slap:

Uh-oh, Clyde's on the "list"! :shocked2: :haha: Beginning to sound like:

"No, no, not the whip! Anything but the whip!"
"Anything?"
:shocked2:
"THE WHIP! THE WHIP!" :rotf:

 

[coloradoclyde]

Just put me on after the beer but before bread and eggs. :grin:

Hey wait don't you have wooden jags? :hmm:

 

[Al Bently]

Sounds a lot more risky and complicated than it needs to be.

If its your gun and you know its empty you could put some pan powder under the nipple or through the touch hole.

If its loaded and there is nothing else doing, then its greas zert time

Do you mean zerK?

"Complicated?" Complicated was the process I was responding to...

 

[Rifleman1776]

Hey wait don't you have wooden jags?

[/quote
I wood nebber admit it. :wink:

[/URL][/img]

 

[coloradoclyde]

Any list that you put me on would truly be an honor :bow:

and I love those wooden jags

 

[blackpowderscout]

How is his description fixing his jags complicated compared to your plan of pulling the barrel and firing up a welder?

As a wise man once said, this isn't rocket surgery. :wink:

 

[bpd303]

More than likely trying to use a welder would not work due to the patch wrapped around the jag would prevent a ground.

 

[coloradoclyde]

I would unbreach a CVA before I would use a welder....if that says anything. :youcrazy:

 

[Al Bently]

 

[Al Bently]

How is his description fixing his jags complicated compared to your plan of pulling the barrel and firing up a welder?

As a wise man once said, this isn't rocket surgery.

I didn't describe "rocket science." I described a 2-3 minute operation versus the following. You do the math:

Having once had the fun of removing a jag which was left in my guns barrel after the threads snapped off I have "fixed" all of my remaining jags by installing steel threads.

The problem with the brass threads is brass is pretty weak and if it is subjected to high stresses, it will work harden making it brittle. Weak + brittle = broken threads.

To fix the problem I filed off almost all of the existing brass threads and then center punched a dimple in the center of the remaining thread.

Using the correct size tap drill I then drilled a hole 3/8 to 1/2" deep.
I threaded this hole with the correct tap. (I have both #8-32 and #10-32 range rods. Don't ask me why)

Once threaded, I installed a common steel 5/8 inch long set screw into the jag with about 5/16" sticking out of the face. I used Loc-Tite thread locking compound to secure the set screw in place.

As for which style cleaning jag? I haven't seen a difference between them and I have both styles.