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Cleaning patch

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George C

40 Cal.
Joined
Dec 2, 2017
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Ok what did I do wrong? I put a cleaning patch on the attachment at the end of the rod and ran it down the barrel when I removed the rod the patch stayed at the other end. I had to fabricate a patch remover to get it out. Now what was my mistake.
 
Did it feel loose? Were you using a jag, or a slotted patch holder?

Switch to a jag sized to your bore diameter and use a round or square cotton cleaning patch that offers just a bit of resistance in a clean bore. Do NOT make it to tight or it could get stuck especially after firing a few shots. I lick the patch to lightly dampen it and wipe between each shot, works out well. Also always carry a worm (corkscrew looking thing) to fish out any stuck patches that might come off, which should be very rare if you use the right combination.
 
Ok I have the right jag but I think I had too thin of patch and it wasn't cotton. I have a cork screw patch remover and a ball remover on the way along with some other cleaning accessories with the right size cleaning pads.
 
Way more information needed......Sizes, numbers, calibers, photo's....

If the patch came off.....bottom line!....you had a poor fit....
Be careful though....too big and you'll get it and the rod stuck in the barrel...A much worse problem.
 
Get some calipers and a 1” micrometer. They’ll come in handy. My cleaning patches are cut from Wal-mart flannel that’s .020”

I use cotton patch material from .015” to .025” thick depending on the application, which barrel, what ball size. Ie in my .54 GM deer elk moose buffalo shooter, I load a .535 ball w .015 patch and mink oil lube at the camp. Any follow ups get .530 ball, same patch and lube cause I don’t carry my SS range rod.

My .36 gets .355 ball, .025 denim patch and sloppy wet w saliva/spit at the range or on a trail walk. Note special lube juice w Red Man or Beech Nut added. These after much trial and observation.

Re another thread of yours, Don’t run a dry patch in a dirty barrel, only after cleaning to remove moisture.

Enjoy the journey, I got my first flinter in 1973 and still learning things.
TC
TC
 
A few words of caution regarding patches in the barrel.

When I used to put the breach in a bucket of hot water to clean, I don't do that any more as most of my flintlocks are pinned, sometimes I would get a vacuum from the water in the barrel if I pulled the cleaning rod out too fast. As soon as the jag cleared the muzzle the vacuum would suck even the correct patch combination off the jag and down the barrel.

Not sure if you already do or not, but I would suggest not using the loading rod to do heavy cleaning. Its ok for the wipes between shots but get a good cleaning rod for cleaning. A lot of the production ramrods just have the tips glued on and moisture and solvents will break down the glue. A Ramrod tip is a pain to remove from a barrel. I had to shoot a few out back in the early days of my BP adventure.

:2 .. worth what you paid for it! :v
 
Stlnifr said:
Ok I have the right jag but I think I had too thin of patch and it wasn't cotton. I have a cork screw patch remover and a ball remover on the way along with some other cleaning accessories with the right size cleaning pads.

I would suggest that you add a working rod of brass or stainless steel with a muzzle protector to your list of cleaning accessories. Take a look at your wooden ram rod that came with your rifle. You need to be sure that the ram rod tips are pinned to the rod. I use 1/8" brass rod that I epoxy and peen to hold the tips in place.

Your T/C has shallow rifling and the thin patching may work. I have had better results with 0.017" cotton drill cloth or 0.015" pillow ticking. You may need to add a short starter to the list of accessories. You want to use the short stub to be just long enough to push the ball just into the muzzle. You T/C may have the QLA feature that has relief at the muzzle for the loading of maxi-balls and you can thumb start a patched round ball.

If you can find real GOEX ( or WANO or Scheutzen or Swiss) black powder, you will have better performance than with any synthetic powder. Use the synthetics on;y if black powder can not be found. You will need an adjustable powder measure that can measure from 50 to 120 grains by volume of black powder. I will insist that you always load from a measure. You need the measure for load development. You probably have scales for powder measurement from your previous shooting experience but a measure is convenient for loading at the range.

Welcome to muzzleloading.
 
Stlnifr said:
Ok I have the right jag but I think I had too thin of patch and it wasn't cotton. I have a cork screw patch remover and a ball remover on the way along with some other cleaning accessories with the right size cleaning pads.

How are you sure you have the right jag? It should be smaller than bore size and have a rebate behind the jag. That narrowed portion (the rebate) catches and bunches up the cleaning patch on the pull back out. That is what grabs the crud and does the cleaning. I use cotton baby blanket flannel from Wal-Mart. I have a big ole pair of tailor scissors and cut the flannel up into aprox. 2" squares. Can you post a pic of your jag? We are here to help but need good info to do our best. Yours is a serious problem if not fixed but fortunately an easy fix.
 
Stlnifr said:
Ok I have the right jag but I think I had too thin of patch and it wasn't cotton. I have a cork screw patch remover and a ball remover on the way along with some other cleaning accessories with the right size cleaning pads.

Does your jag look like this?
hwnlJ7f.jpg
 
Then you have the wrong jag IMO.
I find this jag works the best of all I have tried....the rebated area above the head tapering towards the threads is important....it allows a place for the patch material to gather locking it onto the head. it also reduces the chance of a stuck rod in the barrel.
Notice the steel threads....if you get one with brass threads you'll be asking how to remove a broken jag.....
 
Frenchman said:
:hmm: Why such simple things as cleaning a gun turns into a problem that we need to have every action under the microscope :confused:
To quote Johnny Carson, "I have only four words...Too Much Free Time!" :rotf:
 
I have purchased the right cleaning patches and they work perfectly with the Jag I have. I am able to insert it go all the way down back out short strokes long Stokes no longer worried about losing the patch again. But if so I have a patch puller.
 
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