Cleaning Pedersoli Hawken

[sturmkatze]

Also the “wedge” will not remove so I was thinking it was made that way so it won’t get lost, I guess not.

Does it slide? Could be “kept” with a pin in a slot.

 

[Grenadier1758]

The illustrated parts diagram below from Pedersoli confirms that it has a fixed breech. The wedge is removable.

https://shop.davide-pedersoli.com/pdf-files/S664-665.pdf
It really doesn't take that long to remove the tang bolt which appears to thread into the trigger plate and push the wedge back enough to remove the barrel. The lock bolt appears to clear the breech plug. The ramrod has to be removed to lift the barrel from the stock. I have the same procedure to remove the barrel from my Harper's Ferry rifle and my Derringer rifle. it's not really a difficult process and I can flush the barrel in a bucket as easily as if I had a hooked breech.

 

[SPQR70AD]

I send my rifles and pistols to the dry cleaner after shooting. they come back like new

 

[beardedhorse]

If the barrel wedge or key doesn't come out it is probably a captured key. It has a slot in the key through which a pin or screw in the stock captures the wedge. It slides out far enough to pull the barrel lug out of the mortise. Capturing the key prevents it from being lost. Losing a key in a single lug barrel makes the rifle unsafe to shoot. Losing only one in a double key stock still allows you to shoot it. I don't have to carry spare barrel keys or wedges since mine are captured.
I put my barrel vertically in a tall plastic juice pitcher. I wear heavy rubber washing/cleaning gloves or wrap a towel or sock at the muzzle, twisting it to hold the barrel upright. Then pour hot or boiling water down the barrel until full. Pre wet a patch, put it on end of rod with jag and pump up and down, forcing cruddy solution out the nipple end or bolster or snail or drum if nipple is removed. The water level in the pitcher must be above the nipple and you will change the water many times. Putting a dry patch on may get it stuck at the breech end where the snail or drum meet the bore. I have several different diameter patch jags to prevent stuck patches depending on wetness and fouling of the bore.
Many shooters start cleaning by first plugging the nipple with a toothpick, secure the barrel vertically and pre-soak the bore with hot soapy water - just a few drops of Dawn. Half an hour or longer is good. If you have a breech face scraper for your ramrod, scrape any stuck fouling off the face. Breech plugs with Nock design where the chamber is smaller than bore diameter takes a special stepped down scraper or smaller blade. Breech faces not square or flat require a custom fitted scraper blade.
When patches come out clean and nearly white and you are satisfied it is clean, dry with a dry patch and slightly smaller jag. I run a patch dipped in denatured alcohol to dry any remaining moisture in breech end. The barrel is still hot enough if you used boiling water to evaporate the clean water. A light brown film of rust might appear but when you think the bore is dry run an oil patch to thoroughly protect the clean bore. I use Barricade now instead of Ballistol or 103 lube or bear/beeswax lube.
Any oiled patches are then used to wipe the outside of the barrel. Wet patches were used to clean the barrel exterior, lock and tang area. They also get dried and oiled lightly.
To clean your rifle without removing the barrel requires special equipment. After removing the nipple a brass or steel threaded tube screws into the snail. The other end is connected to a length of rubber tubing (usually transparent or clear). The end of the tube may have a weight to keep it anchored in a pitcher or cup of hot water. The water may have a little detergent in it. The same wet patch on your ramrod is forced up and down the barrel creating a suction to bring the solution from breech to muzzle and back down to the cup or pitcher. You will need to change the water and patches several times until the patches come out slightly gray or white.
The method described uses hot water. I've tried a lot of commercially prepared solvents in bottles and never found them to be equal or surpass hot water. Sorry for being so wordy. Someone may post a you tube video that takes less time to watch and demonstrates this method. Congratulations on your new rifle and journey to shooting black powder at 70. I was lucky enough to start in 1974 and am 72. Best wishes for fun and safe shooting.

 

[adams3496]

If the barrel wedge or key doesn't come out it is probably a captured key. It has a slot in the key through which a pin or screw in the stock captures the wedge. It slides out far enough to pull the barrel lug out of the mortise. Capturing the key prevents it from being lost. Losing a key in a single lug barrel makes the rifle unsafe to shoot. Losing only one in a double key stock still allows you to shoot it. I don't have to carry spare barrel keys or wedges since mine are captured.
I put my barrel vertically in a tall plastic juice pitcher. I wear heavy rubber washing/cleaning gloves or wrap a towel or sock at the muzzle, twisting it to hold the barrel upright. Then pour hot or boiling water down the barrel until full. Pre wet a patch, put it on end of rod with jag and pump up and down, forcing cruddy solution out the nipple end or bolster or snail or drum if nipple is removed. The water level in the pitcher must be above the nipple and you will change the water many times. Putting a dry patch on may get it stuck at the breech end where the snail or drum meet the bore. I have several different diameter patch jags to prevent stuck patches depending on wetness and fouling of the bore.
Many shooters start cleaning by first plugging the nipple with a toothpick, secure the barrel vertically and pre-soak the bore with hot soapy water - just a few drops of Dawn. Half an hour or longer is good. If you have a breech face scraper for your ramrod, scrape any stuck fouling off the face. Breech plugs with Nock design where the chamber is smaller than bore diameter takes a special stepped down scraper or smaller blade. Breech faces not square or flat require a custom fitted scraper blade.
When patches come out clean and nearly white and you are satisfied it is clean, dry with a dry patch and slightly smaller jag. I run a patch dipped in denatured alcohol to dry any remaining moisture in breech end. The barrel is still hot enough if you used boiling water to evaporate the clean water. A light brown film of rust might appear but when you think the bore is dry run an oil patch to thoroughly protect the clean bore. I use Barricade now instead of Ballistol or 103 lube or bear/beeswax lube.
Any oiled patches are then used to wipe the outside of the barrel. Wet patches were used to clean the barrel exterior, lock and tang area. They also get dried and oiled lightly.
To clean your rifle without removing the barrel requires special equipment. After removing the nipple a brass or steel threaded tube screws into the snail. The other end is connected to a length of rubber tubing (usually transparent or clear). The end of the tube may have a weight to keep it anchored in a pitcher or cup of hot water. The water may have a little detergent in it. The same wet patch on your ramrod is forced up and down the barrel creating a suction to bring the solution from breech to muzzle and back down to the cup or pitcher. You will need to change the water and patches several times until the patches come out slightly gray or white.
The method described uses hot water. I've tried a lot of commercially prepared solvents in bottles and never found them to be equal or surpass hot water. Sorry for being so wordy. Someone may post a you tube video that takes less time to watch and demonstrates this method. Congratulations on your new rifle and journey to shooting black powder at 70. I was lucky enough to start in 1974 and am 72. Best wishes for fun and safe shooting.

Thank you very much for all the great information beardedhorse it’s really appreciated.

 

[oldschoolhunter55]

Pedersoli Hawken rifles do not have a hooked breach (I know Because I have one). To clean remove the Nipple or Lock if flint. It is then up to you to either remove the flash liner or not on the flint model.
I then swab the barrel with 3 sopping wet patches. Then stand rifle up and pour a jug of boiling water down barrel. Keeping the heat of the water on the barrel in mind clean as usual with patches.
They are the only Hawken type rifle I have come across without a hooked breach and are pretty much the same as Pedersoli`s Kentucky rifle.

If you really want to remove the barrel remove the barrel wedge and take out the tang screw (after you have removed the Ram Rod of course). I removed the Barrel years ago to sand and oil the stock but have never had a reason to remove it other than that.

( Pedersoli Hawken is made differently to other Hawken Rifles)

Dang. U just learned me something. I didnt know that. Thanks

 

[oldschoolhunter55]

If the barrel wedge or key doesn't come out it is probably a captured key. It has a slot in the key through which a pin or screw in the stock captures the wedge. It slides out far enough to pull the barrel lug out of the mortise. Capturing the key prevents it from being lost. Losing a key in a single lug barrel makes the rifle unsafe to shoot. Losing only one in a double key stock still allows you to shoot it. I don't have to carry spare barrel keys or wedges since mine are captured.
I put my barrel vertically in a tall plastic juice pitcher. I wear heavy rubber washing/cleaning gloves or wrap a towel or sock at the muzzle, twisting it to hold the barrel upright. Then pour hot or boiling water down the barrel until full. Pre wet a patch, put it on end of rod with jag and pump up and down, forcing cruddy solution out the nipple end or bolster or snail or drum if nipple is removed. The water level in the pitcher must be above the nipple and you will change the water many times. Putting a dry patch on may get it stuck at the breech end where the snail or drum meet the bore. I have several different diameter patch jags to prevent stuck patches depending on wetness and fouling of the bore.
Many shooters start cleaning by first plugging the nipple with a toothpick, secure the barrel vertically and pre-soak the bore with hot soapy water - just a few drops of Dawn. Half an hour or longer is good. If you have a breech face scraper for your ramrod, scrape any stuck fouling off the face. Breech plugs with Nock design where the chamber is smaller than bore diameter takes a special stepped down scraper or smaller blade. Breech faces not square or flat require a custom fitted scraper blade.
When patches come out clean and nearly white and you are satisfied it is clean, dry with a dry patch and slightly smaller jag. I run a patch dipped in denatured alcohol to dry any remaining moisture in breech end. The barrel is still hot enough if you used boiling water to evaporate the clean water. A light brown film of rust might appear but when you think the bore is dry run an oil patch to thoroughly protect the clean bore. I use Barricade now instead of Ballistol or 103 lube or bear/beeswax lube.
Any oiled patches are then used to wipe the outside of the barrel. Wet patches were used to clean the barrel exterior, lock and tang area. They also get dried and oiled lightly.
To clean your rifle without removing the barrel requires special equipment. After removing the nipple a brass or steel threaded tube screws into the snail. The other end is connected to a length of rubber tubing (usually transparent or clear). The end of the tube may have a weight to keep it anchored in a pitcher or cup of hot water. The water may have a little detergent in it. The same wet patch on your ramrod is forced up and down the barrel creating a suction to bring the solution from breech to muzzle and back down to the cup or pitcher. You will need to change the water and patches several times until the patches come out slightly gray or white.
The method described uses hot water. I've tried a lot of commercially prepared solvents in bottles and never found them to be equal or surpass hot water. Sorry for being so wordy. Someone may post a you tube video that takes less time to watch and demonstrates this method. Congratulations on your new rifle and journey to shooting black powder at 70. I was lucky enough to start in 1974 and am 72. Best wishes for fun and safe shooting.

Thanks bud.