Cleaning Ruger Chambers

[nkbj]

When cleaning your Old Army, do the nipple hole threads catch and hold fragments of whatever you're scrubbing with?
If it did and you cured it, how'd yah do it?

My best solution so far is a brass machine screw chasing the threads and being sure to push any fragments of stuff back on into the chamber. And then twisting a paper towel in the direction opposite of the thread. But in reality it appears (for now at least) that the only solution is going to be to very carefully grind the open ends of the nipple threads on the inside of the chambers (gently reducing and removing the burrs).

Got any input, I'm all ears.
Thanks.

 

[rodwha]

I can't say I've had any issues. My ROA is my dad's best friend's that passed and is from something like '83 I believe.

However I had since moved on to using a bore mop. Greatest cleaning attachment ever!

 

[FishDFly]

Q-tips from the nipple end.

 

[nhmoose]

First why are you driving a 45 caliber sized patch on what? kind of jag through the 1/4 inch nipple thread in the first place?

 

[FishDFly]

I clean each chamber with a 45 cal. cleaning patch on a short cleaning rod that I made. Then after cleaning each chamber I use Q-tip to clean the nipple threads of the anti-seize which tepid water will not remove.

Been working for years.

The OP asked, When cleaning your Old Army, do the nipple hole threads catch and hold fragments of whatever you're scrubbing with?

I use Q-tips to clean nipple threads.

 

[nkbj]

First why are you driving a 45 caliber sized patch on what? kind of jag through the 1/4 inch nipple thread in the first place?

I'm not.
The way I typically clean revolver chambers is to wash them out and then scrub them squeaky clean with paper towels, twisting the paper towel into a rope and feeding that into chambers compressing and twisting as it goes. That way every bit of the chamber wall gets squeegeed all the way down. When they are totally clean and I can't get any more color from washing and squeegeeying then they're clean. The problem is that there are burrs on the nipple hole threads extending into the chambers. Anything used to clean them gets a little shredded and hung up in the burrs. Moisture in the shreds can be eliminated by heating or by WD-40. But if the shreds are not physically removed before loading then there's an oiled wick down there in the bottom of the chambers. So I'm interested in a means of carefully removing the burs.

The brass machine screw is being used to push through the nipple holes from the outside to dislodge debris snagged by the thread burs.

 

[Tom Compton]

I clean each chamber with a 45 cal. cleaning patch on a short cleaning rod that I made. Then after cleaning each chamber I use Q-tip to clean the nipple threads of the anti-seize which tepid water will not remove.

Been working for years.

The OP asked, When cleaning your Old Army, do the nipple hole threads catch and hold fragments of whatever you're scrubbing with?

I use Q-tips to clean nipple threads.

Y yo, tambien.

A little Spanish lingo for “me too”.

 

[FishDFly]

I put anti-seize on all nipple threads and Q-tips are the only to get it out of the threads when cleaning. I use them on all guns to clean in small areas and to oil in hard to get to areas.

The pictures of Brady look like a small turn out.

 

[FishDFly]

"So I'm interested in a means of carefully removing the burs.

The brass machine screw is being used to push through the nipple holes from the outside to dislodge debris snagged by the thread burs."

I see your concerns, I can see myself using a brass machine screw and doing something stupid.

I always look through each nipple hole to ensure there is nothing it.

 

[Larry Akers]

I don't have a Ruger, but my son does, and he bought a professional spraygun (he's an auto body painter) cleaning kit that is loaded with all kinds of handy- sized brushes that are the cat's meow for cleaning BP revolvers.

 

[FishDFly]

I do not put brushes into any gun or cylinder.

One exception, I will push a brush through a revolver barrel with the cylinder removed to clean the forcing cone since a patch will not clean the forcing cone. I clean every 5 shots in pistol matches and brush first, amazing the crude in forcing cones.

One of the popular topics here, is how do I get the stuck brush out?

We all get to clean as we wish though.

 

[Paul_R]

Stuck brushes are easy in a revolver cylinder. Just chuck it in a drill motor (like you should have done in the first place) and spin it out.

 

[FishDFly]

Seems to be a shortage of drill motors, extension cords and wall plugs at the NMLRA patches I attend.

Spinning brushes does not sound like a good idea with a drill motor and the brush as circular metal piece which will mess up threads at the bottom of the cylinder with it's design.

 

[ZUG]

Like some others here I use a Q-Tip and "screw" it into the nipple hole from the nipple side. If I find loose cotton material in the threads I use a pointy tweezers to remove the offending material.
I guess you can also run in a .22 cal or .25 cal bore brush to get into the root of the threads :hmm: . As for de-burring the start and ends of the threads I would leave it alone you could end up with more trouble than you want :v .

 

[AZbpBurner]

When cleaning your Old Army, do the nipple hole threads catch and hold fragments of whatever you're scrubbing with?
If it did and you cured it, how'd yah do it?

My best solution so far is a brass machine screw chasing the threads and being sure to push any fragments of stuff back on into the chamber. And then twisting a paper towel in the direction opposite of the thread. But in reality it appears (for now at least) that the only solution is going to be to very carefully grind the open ends of the nipple threads on the inside of the chambers (gently reducing and removing the burrs).

Got any input, I'm all ears.
Thanks.

Patches on a jag are usually sufficient to clean barrel and chambers of my cap & ball revolvers. If I do need a brush, I use a nylon bristle brush.

I've got an old small caliber nylon rifle brush with an attached handle that I use for cleaning out nipple threads on all my cap & ball revolvers.

I usually first use a Q-Tip covered with a cleaning patch, then run the brush thru to remove any residual lint. I use either beeswax & tallow ball lube or even Froglube as an anti seize compound & both work reliably.