Cleaning up the revolver

[wb78963]

Hello out Thereonly ,
It took 30 (thirty) minutes to clean one of my Marshal revolvers. I did have all the cleaning equipment ready. mop, jag etc. out on the bench.
This did include removing all the cones and setting them to soak.Except for reinstalling them it is ready to go back in the rack or be shot some more. Most likely shot some more.
Admittedly it was used with Black MZ that is super easy to clean, and makes clouds of smoke. Unfortunately the smoke does not smell right. It works well in cap lock, sorry you rock lock shooters it does not do well there.
I know that I rant about the "P"stuff, that rust in a bottle that burns and 777 one number from the mark of the Devil, but American Pioneer Powder, Black MZ, or Jim Shokey;s Gold ,which are all the same thing, are of a different chemistry and the residue is no more "corrosive" that real Gun Powder, and are classified the same as that fad nitro stuff and may be easier to find.
Now BMZ and associated residue is pretty hard on cartridge brass and it needs to be washed NOW after shooting, but that is another story for another forum.
Black Powder Rules
Pyrodex sux
Bunk

 

[wb78963]

YouTube can be a source of good information. It may also be a source of terrible information.
There are some videos by so called experts that make me cringe to watch so check and double check.
Mike Beliveau (Duelist1954) is very good.
Mark Hubbs (Eras Gone Bullet Molds) also has some good stuff.
For just shooting Capandball is a bit hard to understand, he is Hungarian, but shoots some really rare stuff.
Have fun reinventing a very old wheel.
Yr' Obt' Svt"
Bunk

 

[Boston Bill]

Hello out Thereonly ,
It took 30 (thirty) minutes to clean one of my Marshal revolvers. I did have all the cleaning equipment ready. mop, jag etc. out on the bench.
This did include removing all the cones and setting them to soak.Except for reinstalling them it is ready to go back in the rack or be shot some more. Most likely shot some more.
Admittedly it was used with Black MZ that is super easy to clean, and makes clouds of smoke. Unfortunately the smoke does not smell right. It works well in cap lock, sorry you rock lock shooters it does not do well there.
I know that I rant about the "P"stuff, that rust in a bottle that burns and 777 one number from the mark of the Devil, but American Pioneer Powder, Black MZ, or Jim Shokey;s Gold ,which are all the same thing, are of a different chemistry and the residue is no more "corrosive" that real Gun Powder, and are classified the same as that fad nitro stuff and may be easier to find.
Now BMZ and associated residue is pretty hard on cartridge brass and it needs to be washed NOW after shooting, but that is another story for another forum.
Black Powder Rules
Pyrodex sux
Bunk

MZ?

 

[Zonie]

MZ?

 

[nkbj]

If only Pietta was making a .52 bore revolver in stainless then I could throw it in the dish washer.

 

[wb78963]

Yes Black MZ which is American Pioneer Powder or Jim Shokey's Gold all the same thing under a different labels.
It is a completely different chemistry than Pyrodex or 777and is really easier to clean up after than real Black Gun Powder. It is also less expensive by a good bit than Gun Powder. I shoot if from time to time using the same volume, not weight.
It is regulated differently than Gun Powder more like nitro powder and does not need the same licensing to sell as Gun Powder. It just does not like or need compression other than that it loads exactly the same.
By the way, GUN POWDER is what is printed on my old Du Pont cans of what is now Black Powder because then that is all there was.
Respectfully submitted
Bunk

 

[Boston Bill]

View attachment 41326

Thank you

 

[fistmil]

I started black powder revolvers a few months ago and enjoy all the entries on cleaning. What I am looking for is a book/manual that will help me take the revolver apart and put it back together after cleaning. I am hesitant to unscrew screws not knowing how to put it back together. I have a 1851 colt and a 1858 Remington. Thanks.

Dixie Gun Works and other muzzle loading vendors and manufactures that sell revolvers and parts have an exploded view (schematic drawing) showing numbered parts. I have down loaded several of these for most of my muzzle loaders and center fire guns. I put printed copy of schematics in a folder as a referance . A picture is worth a thousand words!

 

[wb78963]

I would suggest you go to You Tube and look up the Mike Beliveau channel duelist 1954. he has several videos on loading, shooting, improving, cleaning and disassembly and reassembly
Since you have an open top Colt model they are very simple to do. The Remington is a little trickier but his explanation should make it easy.
I shot my 1851 this afternoon and will shoot it some more in the morning.
Good luck
Bunk

 

[AZbpBurner]

Around 1968 Dad brought home an 1861 Uberti Colt Navy from an OGCA show. It became my job to disassemble, clean and reassemble after every range trip. I've used mostly Goex, but also some Pyrodex and other Subs. I've always used soapy water in the kitchen sink, followed by hot water rinse. Afterward I mopped out the bore and chambers, wiped down the rest , then followed up with WD-40 to remove any residual moisture prior to reassembly.
I used Sheath (now called Barricade) prior to storage. I've never had any difficulty removing any powder residue, nor problems with rust.
52 years later & it still runs like new.

 

[wb78963]

Around 1968 Dad brought home an 1861 Uberti Colt Navy from an OGCA show. It became my job to disassemble, clean and reassemble after every range trip. I've used mostly Goex, but also some Pyrodex and other Subs. I've always used soapy water in the kitchen sink, followed by hot water rinse. Afterward I mopped out the bore and chambers, wiped down the rest , then followed up with WD-40 to remove any residual moisture prior to reassembly.
I used Sheath (now called Barricade) prior to storage. I've never had any difficulty removing any powder residue, nor problems with rust.
52 years later & it still runs like new.
View attachment 41384

you said the magic word WATER! That is the solvent that dissolves the black powder residue. I just use compressed air to dry and wipe down with Ballistol, but W(ater) D(ispersing) formula #40 works just as well.
Great looking 1861 by the way so keep on shooting.
respectfully submitted
Bunk

 

[wb78963]

The trouble I have with the quick methods which I think are fine in the short term is that a cylinder full of shots will blow powder fouling into the revolver innards and depending on location and humidity percentages can cause damage. I have a ROA that was cleaned in the quick fashion and while the exterior looked like new I discovered some pitting of parts in the interior as soon as I got it home and apart. It definitely was from powder fouling residue that had not been cleaned, perhaps ever.

My opinion is my "quick" cleaning method works. Yesterday my "Avenging Angle" an 1860 snubby came out to be shot. The gun has not been touched for about a year, has been in storage and moved twice.
A quick field strip showed NO rust, no corrosion and had to be wiped down because it was so oily.
There is a difference between quick and efficient. My system is efficient and works for ME.
Do what you think best it is your gun.
Bunk

 

[Mulebrain]

Anyway, just be sure to clean them. I just picked one up at a gun shop, that somebody brought in dirty. It took nearly everything I had to get the cylinder pin out. I mean a large hammer and a wooden dowel to drive it out. It's a brass framed 1858 long barrel

 

[Boston Bill]

View attachment 41326

Thank you again kind Sir!

 

[nightwolf1974]

you said the magic word WATER! That is the solvent that dissolves the black powder residue. I just use compressed air to dry and wipe down with Ballistol, but W(ater) D(ispersing) formula #40 works just as well.
Great looking 1861 by the way so keep on shooting.
respectfully submitted
Bunk

Hot Soapy Water, Compressed Air, Hoppe's #9 Oil.....and elbow grease!

 

[Bad Karma]

I’m with @wb78963, except I usually pack the interior of the action with Lithium grease. I have packed one or two with red gun grease and or moly bearing grease. The brand is not that important, but the idea is to keep fouling from entering the pistols action. Most any sort of grease will do but if you use your pistol in winter you need to think about that aspect. White lithium grease has worked for me under all conditions so far.

The above means that cleaning the revolver is now as quick and easy as cartridge arm. Swab the bore and chambers with your choice of solvent, (water works very well) and then dry patches until the piece is dry, oil patches are next and if you use Eezox you can leave it to air dry and then reload without fear of an oil contaminated powder charge.

 

[Carl in France]

Funny old subject this one of cleaning. You would think we would all do it the same!

I have a Remington NMA steel.

When i get home i drop the cylinder and take out the nipples. With a small pick i dislodge the burnt powder then i use a phospher bronze brush on the nipples and in the cylinder. Oily rag rubbed in everywhere until all clean.
It takes longer to do this than the rest of the gun.
Brushes, jag and rags for the rest until clean. Oil then grease for assembly.

Never water, ever.

I do not take it apart any further but i do loosen and retighten the frame screws every time so when i feel the urge to do a total job they will run free.
I will do that when it hits a thousand rounds. With this pistol i am at 395.

 

[wb78963]

WoodenBow
I tried that and after about 90 rounds (three matches) the grease was a nasty gritty mess.
It was hard to remove and now about every 100 rounds or so I just take everything apart clean and oil lightly.
Water is the best cleaner alone or as Ballistol and water AKA mix moose milk.
Load 'em Heavy Boys,
They air a'comin'
Bunk

 

[Bad Karma]

Funny old subject this one of cleaning. You would think we would all do it the same!

I have a Remington NMA steel.

When i get home i drop the cylinder and take out the nipples. With a small pick i dislodge the burnt powder then i use a phospher bronze brush on the nipples and in the cylinder. Oily rag rubbed in everywhere until all clean.
It takes longer to do this than the rest of the gun.
Brushes, jag and rags for the rest until clean. Oil then grease for assembly.

Never water, ever.

I do not take it apart any further but i do loosen and retighten the frame screws every time so when i feel the urge to do a total job they will run free.
I will do that when it hits a thousand rounds. With this pistol i am at 395.

I’ve given this method a short trial. Using jojoba oil as cleaning solvent and rust barrier. It does seem to work, but I always reload when I finish cleaning just as you would with any firearm. The oil seemed likely to cause a misfire or hang fire and I won’t take the chance just yet. I may run further test.
Bunk, the grease does at times migrate out of the action, I just wipe it off and continue. Never had any of the gritty feeling some folks mention.

 

[Carl in France]

Woodenbow, hello, when i do the nipples i use no oil. I remove them use my sharp point to scrape the bp deposits and brush them with a brass brush. Before re-inserting i put a tiny bit of grease on the thread.
I only reinsert after i have fully cleaned the cylinder and never oil the hole in the nipple just quicly put a wire down there to ensure it is clear.
This way i never worry about a clear shot every time and never follow the common practice of blowing a set of caps through before shooting. I have only once loaded after cleaning but the pistol was only left for a month before shooting without issues. To ensure there is a minimum of oil in the cylinders after cleaning i wipe with a dry patch on a jag.