Cleaning the lock and trigger

[Billnpatti]

One thing I forgot to mention is that spray automotive brake cleaner is a great lock cleaner when you want to do a quick cleaning job. It doesn't take the place of a good soapy water cleaning but if you are at a rendezvous, hunting trip, etc. and want a quick and easy way to clean your lock, break cleaner will do a pretty darned good field job. Just remove your lock, give it a good flushing spray until you get the gunk out, shake it off and let it dry. It drys very quickly. Give it a drop or two of your favorite lube and it is ready to go back into service. Keep the brake cleaner away from your stock because the solvent may damage your finish. Once the lock is dry it is safe to replace into your stock.

 

[shortbow]

Sure didn't meant to stir up a hornet's nest, just relating my experience and intentions.

And, fwiw, I pulled the locks off my shotgun today for a looksee and they were clean as a whistle, no fouling or dirt present. Perhaps, just to be on the safe side, I'll pull them in another dozen or so outings. :rotf:

Of course, they are percussion not flint and very well fitted. What my experience will be with a flinter, time will tell. :hmm:

 

[woodse guy]

Well seeing as I have never taken the lock or trigger off or out I think that maybe the first thing I do before I go out shooting again.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Lock comes off every cleaning. Trigger stays pinned in the stock and just gets wiped where I can reach it.

WD-40 I use to chase off water from metal but not as a lube or protectant. I use Rem-Oil or Barricade.

 

[HOGGHEAD]

Hopefully modern cleaners are not a NO-NO here. I have a friend who is an electrician. So he gets me some cans of "electrical cleaner". He says it is the same as brake cleaner. But I am not an expert on cleaners or chemicals.

What I do is I spray the parts liberally with the brake cleaner. Then I take an air hose and blow all the cleaner, dirt, and dust off the parts. Then I lubricate the parts with SLIP 2,000. Works great for me. High pressure air does a great job. But I would not call it traditional??

Many years ago I had a sticky trigger on a factory FL rifle. I contacted the mfr. and they suggested I did this procedure to the trigger mechanism. It worked great, cleaned the trigger very well, and remedied the "gumming" problem. Tom.

 

[Tony Logan]

Shot today, did pretty good so I thought the gun needed a little special attention. after usual bore and lock clean and lube, I decided to pull the pins and see what was living under the barrel for the first time. I have had this gun for 1 1/2 years. I was not impressed, it looked scary under there. I had to put the steel wool to it to knock off the first layer of rust. I then rubbed barricade oil on it and maybe I should, maybe I shouldnt have I rubbed it down with the paste wood floor wax I use on the stock. I guess I could have used car wax now that I think of it. YOU can do what ever you like, but I will be checking on what I can't see a little more often.

 

[necchi]

"YOU can do what ever you like, but I will be checking on what I can't see a little more often."

:grin: :thumbsup:

 

[paulvallandigham]

I would suggest that you remove that wax in the barrel mortise, using alcohol, and then put a coat or two of stock finish oil in the channel to seal the wood. Same with the lock mortise, and the wood under the trigger guard, the ramrod channel, the end grain under the butt plate, and muzzle cap, and under the sideplate, inlays, and the patch box. End grain soaks up moisture and that and the quick drying of end grain is what causes Cracks to appear. I know a couple of gunmakers who now use raw linseed oil in their mortises, because its slow drying and seals from moisture. Then they use epoxy resin to seal the end grain under the butt plate, and muzzle cap. Epoxy is used in the lock mortise when the wood is thin there. ( differs with different kinds of muzzleloaders and the size of lock used.)