Click bang

[n8dawg6]

before I actually bought a flintlock, I read all of the stuff about "instantaneous ignition" and position of the powder in the priming pan, etc. after a bunch of frustration, I made peace with my flintlock not firing as instantaneously as a caplock. it's part of the fun of the things ... it's actually OK that they are more challenging to shoot.

what works for me is:

1. quality components ... have a good lock and sharp flint

2. use enough powder in the pan. too little and it doesn't flash, too much and it slows down and flashes too much. I was almost always using too little though. use ... "enough"

3. practice and learn to shoot a dang flintlock, it's all about followthrough

hope this helps

 

[Jaegermeister]

I'll say it. I think my Davis Jaeger lock is quicker with the powder thrown out away from the vent. But who really cares? Right?

 

[Matt85]

the amount of powder in the pan does really seem to make a difference. at least in musket it does, if i just put a few grains it goes off almost instantly versus if i fill the pan there is a noticable delay.

-matt

 

[nebraska steve]

It's Getting quicker. I drilled out the touchhole liner to 1/16th last night. Went stump shooting today. I don't believe it is my imagination, that the rifle is going off noticeably quicker than the last time I shot. I have decided the prime against the touchhole gave best results. I even had good results using 777 powder as the main charge, with Goex in the pan. Thanks for everyones input. New guy really appreciates the time you put in for him.

 

[Zonie]

Unless you are putting a 'starter' load of 4-6 grains of real black powder down the bore before loading your 777, expect to have some noticeable delays in the guns ignition.

 

[nebraska steve]

Zonie, I started out putting about 20 grains of Goex under the 777. Then began experimenting downwards until it was pure 777, with a healthy pan of Goex. The 777 fired as quickly as the real stuff. If I was on a hunt I would not use the 777, but shooting stumps is not a real precise sport.

 

[J D Hoffman]

First use 4f in your pan, next tune your lock I've shot my flinter for 20 years and i don't notice any delay

 

[nebraska steve]

I have considered the 4f but have no idea how to tune a lock. I get a lot of nice white sparks, so it may be already tuned. I will try to load some video of the gun firing.

 

[Many Klatch]

Tuning the lock means disassembling it and polishing everything that moves. A lot of guns are assembled with the lock parts as cast. The parts have a rough surface. Friction is a bad thing in any lock. If all the surfaces are slicked up to almost mirror finish then there will be a noticeable improvement in performance.

Many Klatch

 

[nebraska steve]

Thanks Many Klatch. I will look at the matching surface and see if I can polish it up.

 

[Many Klatch]

I start by filing the back side of the lock flat and then I use various grades of sandpaper until it is almost a mirror finish. Important things to work on are the main spring and the tumbler.

The inside of the main spring is usually flat and the entire length of the spring rubs against the inside of the plate. I take a few thousandths off the inside of the mainspring and just leave a small "bump" at the tip for the spring to ride on. Polish the end of the mainspring where it touches the tumbler.

The tumbler usually has at least one sharp corner that digs into the plate. When you take the lock apart you may already see the marks. Round off the corners, and take a few thousandths off but leave a "washer" around the axle. That way there is a smaller area of the tumbler to touch the plate. Polish the area on the tumbler where the mainspring touches.

That should give you a good start. Polish anything else that strikes your fancy.

Don't mess with the full and half cock notches or the end of the sear. Trigger pull and safety is a whole nuther topic.

Many Klatch