cold brown
- Thread starter olflint40
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I'm not sure what you mean by "cold brown," but LMF is a cold process and works really well for me. Directions are in the stickies at the top of this section.
Black Hand
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Then someone told you a fib....olflint said:
I just checked Track of the Wolf, and they have two brands in stock. Other vendors may have some as well. Most folks here like the Laurel Mountain stuff, but I have had good luck with the Tried and True brand, when that's all that was available.
A few years back, it was nearly impossible to get any kind of product that was nitric acid based, post 911 result. I tried to get some nitric acid ordered through my work at a machine shop, but no dice. Though it's still probably unobtainable by a private citizen, the manufaturers of aqua fortis and browning solution can get it again, so it looks like we're back in business. Bill
A few years back, it was nearly impossible to get any kind of product that was nitric acid based, post 911 result. I tried to get some nitric acid ordered through my work at a machine shop, but no dice. Though it's still probably unobtainable by a private citizen, the manufaturers of aqua fortis and browning solution can get it again, so it looks like we're back in business. Bill
Metalshaper
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October Country has a browning solution called "old Thunder" works great. Just follow the directions and you'd have NO trouble!!
Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan
matt denison
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Cold brown solutiin is widely available from many sources. I have used about every brand out there and they all work. READ THE DIRECTIONS on the bottle from whichever brand you choose.
That's a hot brown. The LMF stuff only requires ambient moisture and some baking soda once you've achieved desired color, during the winter months I would turn the shower on in the bathroom until the mirror fogged and leave the treated barrel hanging off the towel rack. More humid months you don't even need to do that.
Hot brown is a quicker process and from what I understand it "sticks" to more polished metal. The cold process works best when used on a rougher surface. I saw no difference between two barrels, one sanded with 400 grit and one sanded with 200 grit.
Hot brown is a quicker process and from what I understand it "sticks" to more polished metal. The cold process works best when used on a rougher surface. I saw no difference between two barrels, one sanded with 400 grit and one sanded with 200 grit.
paulvallandigham
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The Birchwood Casey browning solution is a COLD browning solution like all the others. What is it you are calling a "HOT BROWN"???
[ I do heat my parts up when using the cold brown solutions because I get a better, darker brown color that stays for years of handling and use. I apply the cold solution while the part is about 300 degrees F. After I am satisfied with the color, I clean off the residue, degrease again, and then reheat the parts and spray them with oil. The oil burns or smolders on the metal but helps to darken the browning, and hold it to the metal. I used B/C Plum Brown on my CVA shotgun kit barrels doing this method, and still have a "Hershey's Chocolate" brown color on the gun. ]
[ I do heat my parts up when using the cold brown solutions because I get a better, darker brown color that stays for years of handling and use. I apply the cold solution while the part is about 300 degrees F. After I am satisfied with the color, I clean off the residue, degrease again, and then reheat the parts and spray them with oil. The oil burns or smolders on the metal but helps to darken the browning, and hold it to the metal. I used B/C Plum Brown on my CVA shotgun kit barrels doing this method, and still have a "Hershey's Chocolate" brown color on the gun. ]
BEP
40 Cal.
Birchwood Casey Plum Brown Barrel Finish does require heat - I'm reading the directions on a 5 ounce bottle right now. Directions, step # 3, "Heat with clean source of heat until a drop of water sizzles (approximately 275 degrees F)"
That's pretty warm.
That's pretty warm.
Birchwood Casey "Plum Brown" is a HOT browning surface treatment and they recommend that the metal be absolutely clean and heated to a temperature of 265-295 degrees F.
If the metal temperature is under 250 degrees, Plum Brown will deposit a layer of copper which will prevent any form of browning to develop.
Tiger955. You hit the nail on the head. Trying to heat a large object to a uniform 280 degrees isn't easy and about the only practical way for the average person is to use a propane torch along with the old "spit finger" that was probably known to your mom but is unknown to most modern people. It has long been used by women to test their iron's heat to see if it was ready for use.
It goes like this: Heat the metal until you figure it's about right. Lick your index finger.
Place your wet index finger against the metal.
If you hear a "spiffff" and your finger is not burned its hot enough. The instant steam that is generated will keep your finger from touching the hot metal.
If you don't hear the "spiffff" and your finger does get burned it isn't hot enough. Not enough steam created fast enough to keep your finger away from the metal.
When using Plum Brown for browning a barrel I just work on one area at a time, heating the metal and then applying the solution.
Once an area is browned I work on down to the next area.
When applying the solution it should instantly vaporize and leave a brown surface.
If it vaporizes and leaves black unsightly crud the surface is too hot. Let it cool slightly and try again.
If the fluid seems to boil the surface is not hot enough and it will either leave a yellow crud or copper. If copper is left it must be sanded off before you can try again.
After applying a coat of Plum Brown the color will be very uneven. It usually takes me at least three applications, washing off the crud with a clean paper towel and lots of water. Then the barrel can be reheated to apply another layer of the Plum Brown.
Even after 3 coats the surface will look uneven in color. At this stage you can decide to apply more or you can decide you've had enough fun.
If you decide you've had enough fun, get some oil and apply it to the surface and sit the barrel aside to age for at least 12 hours. 24 hours is even better. Then wipe the barrel, reapply some gun oil and your finished.
As you can see, I've had more than my share of fun with this stuff and I'll be the first to say that although it's fast it is a lot of work to end up with something you can be proud of.
When using Plum Brown, DO IT OUTSIDE.
Although they don't use mercury anymore in it, it does create some really nasty fumes that you don't want to breath and it will stink up your house.
For this reason I use Plum Brown on small, easily heated things like lock plates, butt plates etc but I use cold browning methods on large things like a barrel.
If the metal temperature is under 250 degrees, Plum Brown will deposit a layer of copper which will prevent any form of browning to develop.
Tiger955. You hit the nail on the head. Trying to heat a large object to a uniform 280 degrees isn't easy and about the only practical way for the average person is to use a propane torch along with the old "spit finger" that was probably known to your mom but is unknown to most modern people. It has long been used by women to test their iron's heat to see if it was ready for use.
It goes like this: Heat the metal until you figure it's about right. Lick your index finger.
Place your wet index finger against the metal.
If you hear a "spiffff" and your finger is not burned its hot enough. The instant steam that is generated will keep your finger from touching the hot metal.
If you don't hear the "spiffff" and your finger does get burned it isn't hot enough. Not enough steam created fast enough to keep your finger away from the metal.
When using Plum Brown for browning a barrel I just work on one area at a time, heating the metal and then applying the solution.
Once an area is browned I work on down to the next area.
When applying the solution it should instantly vaporize and leave a brown surface.
If it vaporizes and leaves black unsightly crud the surface is too hot. Let it cool slightly and try again.
If the fluid seems to boil the surface is not hot enough and it will either leave a yellow crud or copper. If copper is left it must be sanded off before you can try again.
After applying a coat of Plum Brown the color will be very uneven. It usually takes me at least three applications, washing off the crud with a clean paper towel and lots of water. Then the barrel can be reheated to apply another layer of the Plum Brown.
Even after 3 coats the surface will look uneven in color. At this stage you can decide to apply more or you can decide you've had enough fun.
If you decide you've had enough fun, get some oil and apply it to the surface and sit the barrel aside to age for at least 12 hours. 24 hours is even better. Then wipe the barrel, reapply some gun oil and your finished.
As you can see, I've had more than my share of fun with this stuff and I'll be the first to say that although it's fast it is a lot of work to end up with something you can be proud of.
When using Plum Brown, DO IT OUTSIDE.
Although they don't use mercury anymore in it, it does create some really nasty fumes that you don't want to breath and it will stink up your house.
For this reason I use Plum Brown on small, easily heated things like lock plates, butt plates etc but I use cold browning methods on large things like a barrel.
paulvallandigham
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I hung my shotgun barrels from a rafter in my garage, and then heated the barrels with a propane torch from the bottom( muzzles) on up. Since heat rises, this method gives a benefit of allowing the escaping( rising) heat from the first area heated to begin to heat the areas above. I applied the Plum Brown solution with cotton, but any clean rag will do. I did 6-8 inches sections of the barrel at a time, working my way around the barrels, and then working the second barrel the same way, It did not take much sweeping of the flame of my propane torch over the steel to keep the barrels hot, as I worked my way from bottom up to the tang. Degrease the metal surfaces well, before applying the solution, and remember to not touch the metal with any skin, as it will leave both oils and salts on the barrel, that prevent the product from contacting the metal. When in doubt, heat the metal in a given area again, and hit it with more solution.
I had some "slag" in one of my barrels, and I ended up heating that portion of the barrel up much hotter than 275 Degrees F. to finally get the solution to brown that area of the barrel. I have no idea what the slag was, but I would have to point out the area on that barrel where its located for you to see it has a different" texture" to the finish there.
I will have to buy another bottle of B/C Plum Brown, and read its instructions again. I did not know that it was a "hot brown", as others have said here. I bought three different browning products at the time I bought the B/C Plum Brown. I tried them all and wasn't impressed with the others.
I stand corrected. Thanks to Zonie, and others. :hatsoff:
I had some "slag" in one of my barrels, and I ended up heating that portion of the barrel up much hotter than 275 Degrees F. to finally get the solution to brown that area of the barrel. I have no idea what the slag was, but I would have to point out the area on that barrel where its located for you to see it has a different" texture" to the finish there.
I will have to buy another bottle of B/C Plum Brown, and read its instructions again. I did not know that it was a "hot brown", as others have said here. I bought three different browning products at the time I bought the B/C Plum Brown. I tried them all and wasn't impressed with the others.
I stand corrected. Thanks to Zonie, and others. :hatsoff:
