Cold/hot browning

[cajun]

Greetings all, on my upcoming project I will be browning my trigger guard, butt plate and barrel. My question is there a difference between "cold browning" and "hot browning" (coloring). What brand of browning agent does the best job for you, thank you.

 

[Cpt Flint]

By all means, use Laurel Mountain Cold Browning solution. Look up the full instructions on the internet and follow them to the letter.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Greetings all, on my upcoming project I will be browning my trigger guard, butt plate and barrel. My question is there a difference between "cold browning" and "hot browning" (coloring). What brand of browning agent does the best job for you, thank you.

I am no expert, but here is what I have experienced. Cold brown takes days and you need a humidity chamber or live where there is humidity. Browning is just controlled rust. I can't tell you the product I used so sorry about that. Hot brown (Caseys Plum Brown) works very quick, but gives a thinner coat. Caseys Plum Brown can get the job done in a few hours. I am talking browning time, not metal prep for the process. If you are unsure of choice, I suggest you do both on sample metals. You will learn the process and also have the perfect opinion...........your own!
Larry

 

[PathfinderNC]

I prefer cold browning. I am cold browning a barrel now, using Dixie Gun Works Antique Browning Solution. It's been on for one full day now (in my unheated shop) and about ready to go. I like the way I can get nice deep pitting with it if I want to get a very old/antique look, which is what I may do with this one.

 

[Steve Martin]

Laurel Mountain cold browning solution does work quite well (I have used it on two guns over the past few years). Gives nice EVEN brown tone that some other solutions don't. Yes, it does take a while to work. You can get it to work faster by running your shower on full hot for 5 minutes or so, turn off the shower and hang the barrel by the tang screw hole from something like the shower head and stuffing a towel above the shower door to hold heat and steam in the shower. By the way, don't get caught doing this by the wife! After about an hour or so, dry the barrel, apply a second coat of LM browning and put back in HOT shower again. Repeat as many times as needed to get the shade of brown you want. In my case, I did this three times over a Saturday, next I "carded" the barrel using 0000 steel wool to get the finish smooth. When you have the barrel the shade of brown you want, don't forget to wash it in the tub using warm water mixed with lots of baking soda to stop the browning process or you will end up with a rusty looking barrel in a few days! Also don't forget to plug up the muzzle so the browning process doesn't get into the bore.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Hot browning and cold brown will give different colors and textures. How the surface prep is done and how the chemical is applied effects the color and texture of the finished parts. Unlike a paint job your work will likely be different then mine. Tips given so far shows how one guy can make a smooth even finish with the same product that another guy gets a rough finish. I was recently reading how to get a glass smooth plum colored finish that I have never known how to do and after nearly 50 years in this craft I’m wanting to try it!
A very dark brown with cold brown:
IMG_0543 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Cpt Flint]

I repeat. Follow the instructions on the internet. That’s all there is to it.

 

[tenngun]

Both work, and you can adjust the color as you like. I really like the looks of cold brown, and I like doing it, so my advice would be go cold.
that said I’ve seen some hot that look very nice.
Small parts can be placed in an oven and brought to temp, on this the brown is smooth and nice color.
On a barrel one has to use a big oven or a torch, or put it over a bed of coals to get it to temp. It’s harder to get a good even temp and so it’s harder to get a good even color.
One care with cold is to follow the directions to a t.
wipe once, in one direction. Otherwise you get an ugly copper color.
Both take care to do right.

 

[cajun]

By all means, use Laurel Mountain Cold Browning solution. Look up the full instructions on the internet and follow them to the letter.

Thanks Cpt Flint!!!

 

[cajun]

I am no expert, but here is what I have experienced. Cold brown takes days and you need a humidity chamber or live where there is humidity. Browning is just controlled rust. I can't tell you the product I used so sorry about that. Hot brown (Caseys Plum Brown) works very quick, but gives a thinner coat. Caseys Plum Brown can get the job done in a few hours. I am talking browning time, not metal prep for the process. If you are unsure of choice, I suggest you do both on sample metals. You will learn the process and also have the perfect opinion...........your own!
Larry

Thanks for advise

I prefer cold browning. I am cold browning a barrel now, using Dixie Gun Works Antique Browning Solution. It's been on for one full day now (in my unheated shop) and about ready to go. I like the way I can get nice deep pitting with it if I want to get a very old/antique look, which is what I may do with this one.

Hot browning and cold brown will give different colors and textures. How the surface prep is done and how the chemical is applied effects the color and texture of the finished parts. Unlike a paint job your work will likely be different then mine. Tips given so far shows how one guy can make a smooth even finish with the same product that another guy gets a rough finish. I was recently reading how to get a glass smooth plum colored finish that I have never known how to do and after nearly 50 years in this craft I’m wanting to try it!
A very dark brown with cold brown:
IMG_0543 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

This is what I'm talking about, beautiful!!!

 

[cajun]

Laurel Mountain cold browning solution does work quite well (I have used it on two guns over the past few years). Gives nice EVEN brown tone that some other solutions don't. Yes, it does take a while to work. You can get it to work faster by running your shower on full hot for 5 minutes or so, turn off the shower and hang the barrel by the tang screw hole from something like the shower head and stuffing a towel above the shower door to hold heat and steam in the shower. By the way, don't get caught doing this by the wife! After about an hour or so, dry the barrel, apply a second coat of LM browning and put back in HOT shower again. Repeat as many times as needed to get the shade of brown you want. In my case, I did this three times over a Saturday, next I "carded" the barrel using 0000 steel wool to get the finish smooth. When you have the barrel the shade of brown you want, don't forget to wash it in the tub using warm water mixed with lots of baking soda to stop the browning process or you will end up with a rusty looking barrel in a few days! Also don't forget to plug up the muzzle so the browning process doesn't get into the bore.

Thanks Steve Martin!!!

 

[cajun]

I prefer cold browning. I am cold browning a barrel now, using Dixie Gun Works Antique Browning Solution. It's been on for one full day now (in my unheated shop) and about ready to go. I like the way I can get nice deep pitting with it if I want to get a very old/antique look, which is what I may do with this one.

Nice PatnfinderNC!!!!

 

[sdilts]

Laurel Mountain Forge has been my go to browning for years. I very seldom use a humidity box even in the winter. It just takes a little longer if you don't use a box. One other thing about stopping the after rust - after washing with baking soda, heat the barrel with a propane torch until it just gets too hot to touch then swab it down liberally with ammonia.

 

[Siringo]

Hot browning and cold brown will give different colors and textures. How the surface prep is done and how the chemical is applied effects the color and texture of the finished parts. Unlike a paint job your work will likely be different then mine. Tips given so far shows how one guy can make a smooth even finish with the same product that another guy gets a rough finish. I was recently reading how to get a glass smooth plum colored finish that I have never known how to do and after nearly 50 years in this craft I’m wanting to try it!
A very dark brown with cold brown:
IMG_0543 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

Where are you reading this? I am looking for a finish such as this.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Americanlongrifles.org

 

[user 34300]

I have been a BC hot brown guy. I live on the west coast, it is colder and less humid that most of the country. In the past also use lots of "express browns" that contain mercuric chloride. DO NOT USE mercuric chloride!

On a whim, I recently tried LMF cold brown. IT is fantastic. I sanded to #150 and blended with burgundy scotchbright. I hung the barrel in a wet shower stall for several hours then hung it in the cold dry shop until the next day. I did one pass per day. I carded with steel wool and windex. The result was the best job so far. A big plus is no after rust. BC after rusts for a long time.

Just be patient, if you live in a cold dry place figure it will take longer than in a hot humid location.

 

[Erzulis boat]

I get a glass smooth finish with LMF if I only let it "bite" very lightly between applications. This process takes a full 2 days or more. Two steps forward, one step back if you will.

The durability is nothing short of amazing.

 

[Gvilleddie]

LMF for browning and rust bluing.

 

[lonewolf172]

I have been a BC hot brown guy. I live on the west coast, it is colder and less humid that most of the country. In the past also use lots of "express browns" that contain mercuric chloride. DO NOT USE mercuric chloride!

On a whim, I recently tried LMF cold brown. IT is fantastic. I sanded to #150 and blended with burgundy scotchbright. I hung the barrel in a wet shower stall for several hours then hung it in the cold dry shop until the next day. I did one pass per day. I carded with steel wool and windex. The result was the best job so far. A big plus is no after rust. BC after rusts for a long time.

Just be patient, if you live in a cold dry place figure it will take longer than in a hot humid location.

Hi. If I understand you right you let it "rust" a full day before you carded and then applied another coating of LMF and did the same processed over again? How many total coats/processes did you do?

 

[user 34300]

Three passes was enough.

It only rusted significantly while inside hanging in the damp shower stall. It was inside for about 10 hours. When place outside in the cold shop it did not continue to rust much.

I came out smooth and dark like Phil's picture above.