Colerain 42 ", 50 Cal, "B" weight barrel dimensions question

[The Deacon]

I received a gift from the wife of friend that passed.
It's a project he started probably 20 years ago. I have all the components for what i think could be a nice rifle.
What I have is a swamped barrel, a Dunlap maple blank with the barrel inletted, a Chambers Deluxe Siler lock, a Davis double set trigger and all brass furniture.
The only work done so far is the barrel is inlet. The stock work that hs to be done is, I feel, way beyond my skill level.
I was thinking of purchased a pre shaped and inlet stock from TOW.
Sorry to be so long winded.
Here's my problem. The barrel is marked on the bottom flat Colerain 50 B and is 42" and the stock I've found at TOW is a John Bivins, 1770 Lancaster county pre shaped and inlet for a Colerain "Golden Age" 42" barrel.
However, when I Mic'ed the dimensions of the golden age 42" 50 cal B Colerain barrel shown on TOW and my barrel there's a difference.
For example going from the Butt to the muzzle, TOW 1.000, .850, .750, .750, .812 -- my barrel 1.000, .864, .748, .752, .801.
The difference is 0, +.014, -.002, +.002, -.011 is this normal?
Should I purchase the pre shaped stock from TOW and hope it fits or take my time, pray a lot and see if I can complete the Gun ?

 

[Johnny Too-Tall]

Well I say give it a shot if you mess it up then try to buy a different stock.

 

[deerstalkert]

slow down and watch as many videos as you can stomach of utube.
the hardest part of the inletting has been done.
attack the project in pieces. with the barrel and I assume the tang inlet, your next step is the lock. concentrate solely on the lock. learn how to disassemble it safely. if you don't have a spring vise buy one or pm me and i can send you one on loan until you finish or the Lord returns, whichever happens first!
you need the lock dissembled to lay it out.
as you finish one aspect, you can transfer your attention to the next, but concentrate on one at a time or it can seem overwhelming.
don't work on it if you don't feel like working on it. do so at your and it's peril.
if you upscrew something , stop and study what you did wrong and what you can do to fix(hide) it! mine are 12 foot guns. they look awsome from 12 feet away!. but they all go bang and smoke!
ask questions here as you go along. some world class builders are here. yours truly not qualified to even sweep their work areas, but i have fun and satisfaction doing what i can. no one is born turning out perfect rifles or anything else. all started like us. with the first. and it will only be the first. more addictive than anything i have ever endeavored. besides girls of course!

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Are they both Colerain American Class Bbls? If so I wonder if yours has been draw filed which would explain why it's slightly smaller then the factory dimensions?

Edit: you already said yours is a Golden age.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

The dimensions for the TOTW bbl matches a Classic American. I don't see one on Colerain website with your bbl dimensions. I think you could make your bbl work in their stock. I would email/send your bbl dimensions to TOTW and they should be able to tell you.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I am in the take your time with the parts you have. @wizard717, watch the videos. I think @billraby may have a set of video instructions available on line. Purchase a copy of Dixon's "Building a Pennsylvania Long Rifle" or Peter Alexander's "The Gunsmith of Grenville County". The books seem to be able to fill in details that aren't so obvious in the videos. See if you can find a local builder that can help you with some of the machine work. Is the ramrod hole drilled?

Get some quality chisels and scrapers to remove the wood. I love Iwasaki Rasps from Woodcraft and other suppliers. They are pricey, but worth it.

Go to a lumberyard to purchase some maple scraps to practice inletting your parts.
.
Download a picture of the full-size picture of the Siler lock from the Track of the Wolf catalog. Use that as your lock inletting template.

I just don't see the benefit of trying to do a makeshift fitting of a stock to barrel when you already have that work done.

Let's see some pictures.

 

[Col. Batguano]

I agree that the firs thing to do is the barrel, and the RR. hole. But make sure you get your web to the proper thickness. 1/16"-1/8" in the rear, and 5/32"-3/16" at the muzzle.

Then you can do your barrel lugs (but find the locations for your pipes first).
You can inlet your pipes now or later, as this step is not critical to do at any specific time. Just the location is all you need to know now. Similarly with the muzzle cap.

The next step is to locate (not drill yet) your flash hole. If you are planning on a vent liner it will be half the width of the insert forward of where it will be if you are just going to drill a hole for the barrel.

Once that's done, the lock can be inletted.
Then your lock bolts. It depends on whether you are using a pre-made side plate or making your own as to location.
Then your trigger / trigger plate / trigger group assembly.
Then the butt plate, and toe plate
You can now start taking your stock blank "out of the square stage"
Shape your wrist and tang assembly to their near final profile
Inlet trigger guard
Install the tang bolt
Continue shaping butt stock to shape
Install patch box and release mechanism
Do your carvings
Install other metal inlets
Muzzle cap should be installed by now
Shape forestock
Engrave items that must be engraved while on the gun
Sand and Whisker stock
Stain and finish
Pin Trigger guard in place
Final assembly

*Engraving of items that can be done off the gun can be done at any time after their final shape / fit is known. Those are typically the barrel, side plate, lock assembly, Butt plate, patch box, toe plate, trigger plate, bolt and screw heads, trigger guard, RR pipes. Installation of any vent liner should be done right before the barrel is final polished and finished.

 

[Mulebrain]

I would call track, and also pectonica river. Tell them what ya got and they can steer you.

I would go with precarve stock, that has more done than the stock you have.
Even a pre carve is still gonna be quite a bit of work

Or sell your kit and buy a Kibler , or a finished rifle

You trying to chase this can get maddening , been there, and am there on a current project

 

[Mulebrain]

I am sending you a PM

 

[hawkeye2]

Why not pick up the phone and call Colerain?

Call Pecatonica. They can carve your stock and for a reasonable price. Send your barrel & blank off. They also offer other services and they supply TOW with stocks.
http://www.longrifles-pr.com/services.shtml
Leave TOW out of the picture for now. They are great folks but I would go straight to the horse's mouth if I wanted the tale. You are only guessing if you buy one of their stocks and if you screw it up you will have to buy another and they make expensive firewood.

 

[necchi]

is this normal?

Yes.

Should I purchase the pre shaped stock from TOW

Call them first with questions. But understand they are not "Can I Build This?" coaches nor are they "tech support".
All of the places you have components from or would request components from, are supply houses. Vendors of components.
"Pre-inlet" is not "Fully inlet".

I'd say follow some of the advice you have before me. Study. Acquire some tools and jump in.
Whatta ya got to loose? How are you gonna mess up the stock you want to replace? Before you replace it?
Every error you make will be a lesson. Go for it,

 

[The Deacon]

Well, as a few of you guys recommended. I purchased a couple of books, "The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Long rifle" and "Recreating The American Long rifle". Watched several YouTube videos. I've located where the touch hole liner will go, laid out and have started inletting the lock. . Man this piece of wood is hard.
It's going to be slow going and I may ask a lot of stupid questions. But, with the knowledge base I have access to here I think i should be able build a hopefully "decent looking" and functioning flintlock rifle. Thanks for all the feedback and direction. I try to post pictures as I finish milestones along the way.

 

[The Deacon]

I think I may have badly screwed up already. This is really my first build so I'll need all the help and advice I can get.
I tried inletting the lock plate and have gotten this far. The lock plate seems to be really resisted into the mortise a lot more then I think it should be and I still have about a 1/16" before the bolster is tight against the barrel. Any advise about this? Can I sand down the whole both sides of lock mortice or will that make that area to narrow.? I know the inlet look really bad . But, I'm on a really tight budget and I'm working the the tools I have or can afford.

 

[The Deacon]

Ok, It took me a while but I managed to get the Pan to sit up tight against the barrel.
But, I still need some direction. The lock plate now is about an 1/8 " below the surface of the wood.
Has anyone had this problem and how did you resolve it?