COLONIAL TURDUCKEN ?

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Loyalist Dave

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Howdy Campers,

I was perusing an old cookbook from the UK, The Art of Cooking Made Plain and Easy (1747) looking for a Christmas dish to try, and found this "Christmas-Pye" recipe. In it, the directions talk about deboning several birds (though no Duck, so this isn't a turducken), but it talks about adding them to the pie, so that when completed, it looks like a whole, very large turkey. So this pretty much sounds like a bird, inside a bird, inside a bird, inside a bird, ending inside a turkey... which is pretty much the same concept, no?

Now, they didn't roast this as is done with a modern turducken. They make a huge, standing crust pie shell, and around the "turducken" you put some game animals, and then and bake it in that huge crust.... and sometimes these are then sent as a gift. The baking a meat dish in a crust, then sending it or keeping it a day or so, was a known, short term technique to preserve food after it grew cold. If the pie arrived in a short amount of time with a crust meant to be eaten, it could be eaten cold, OR if it took a bit of time to travel, the crust would be made with a lot of salt, and when eaten the crust would be opened, and the interior contents would be eaten, the crust being discarded as it was just a container.

Just thought it very interesting that the turducken concept at least goes back to 1747..., and it was a Christmas thing.... 🎅

A Yorkshire Christmas-Pye

FIRST make a good Standing Crust
[hot water crust], let the Wall and Bottom be very thick, bone a Turkey, a Goose, a Fowl [chicken?], a partridge, and a Pigeon, season them all very well, take half an Ounce of Mace, half an Ounce of Nutmegs, a quarter of an Ounce of Cloves, half an Ounce of black Pepper, all beat fine together, two large Spoonfuls of Salt, mix them together. Open the Fowls all down the Back, and bone them ; first the Pigeon, then the Partridge, cover them ; then the Fowl, then the Goose, and then the Turkey, which must be large ; season them all well first, and lay them in a Crust, so as it will look only like a whole Turkey ; then have Hare ready cased, [cleaned & dressed] and wiped with a clean Cloth. Cut it [the hare] to Pieces, that is jointed ; season it, and lay it was close as you can on one Side [of the turkey] ; on the other Side Woodcock, more Game, and what Sort of wild Fowl you can get. Season them well, and ley them close ; put at least four Pounds of Butter into the Pye, then lay on your Lid, which must be a very thick one, and let it be well baked. I must have a very hot Oven, and will take at least four Hours.

This Pye will take a Bushel [42 lbs.] of Flour ; in this Chapter, you will see how to make it. These Pies are often sent to London in a Box as Presents ; therefore the Walls must be well built.

LD
 
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wow Dave 42 lbs. of flour, that's a lot of flour. Want to try something a bit different bone a hind quarter of a deer and stud with onion slices and garlic cloves. soak a bunch of newspapers put a thick layer of salt on a pad of the soaked newspapers lay the quarter on the salt and put a thick layer of salt over the roast then wrap the remaining soaked newspapers very well over everything, dig a small pit place 10 lbs charcoal in pit lite the charcoal when the charcoal is ready place the paper wrapped roast in the pit right on the coals cover with a light layer of dirt poke a few air holes in the improvised oven, and an old soaked canvas Let it go for about 4 hours.
 
That sounds delish. However, current day English in-crust food items are, IMHO, pretty unpalatable eating. (sorry, Britsmoothie) I have some in freezer waiting to be eaten, or discarded.
 
HEY folks just some clarity for the above recipe. The crust is a cooking container, not something that you eat. It's not the same as a much much smaller "pork pie" for example. They would make and then bake these things, and then ship them kinda like a "fruit cake". They would be then rebaked to warm the contents, and I'm told that the top would then be removed and the contents served up. So the crust although made of edible stuff, was discarded (or perhaps given to the hogs ???)

Also this was apparently very very popular at Mount Vernon, at least their website this year 2024 says it was so. Something like this was also a way of showing affluence. When you need two folks to bring the pie in because it weighs sooo much, then I guess it makes a "statement", eh?

I will post the recipe for the crust. It doesn't sound that tasty, but again It's for making a disposable container, I'm told

LD
 
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Here's the Crust Recipe, from the same book

A Standing Crust for Great Pies

Take a Peck of Flour, and six Pounds of Butter, boiled in a Gallon of Water, skim it off into the Flour, and as little of the Liquor as you can ; work it well up into a Paste, then pull it into Pieces ‘till it is cold, then make it up in what Form you will have it. This is fit for the Walls of a Goose Pye

LD
 
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