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Colt Replicas

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Many of these were made by Arma San Marcos and finished by Colt. It seems some of these guns got out of Colt with the ASM stamp under the rammers.
 
Capper,
Yeah, I started into muzzleloading with two Hawken rifles, a Thompson Center .50 caliber and a Lyman Plains Rifle in the same caliber. Being fond of large lead chunks, I even bought a .58 caliber Green Mountain barrel for the Hawken. Lost the last Hawken about 14 years ago in a burglary and decided to go with something different, just for kicks. Got the Enfield Civil War rifle, which I've really enjoyed.
Other than needing to raise / build up the front sight a bit, it's a great shooter and much easier to load with the Minie balls.

I do keep an eye out for a nice Hawken, though, especially when I'm at Friendship. I can see maybe a .54 caliber Hawken in my future sometime. They are gorgeous guns with lots of history.
Hickok45
 
I live in the High Plains and the Rocky Mtns. you live in the east. My favorite rifles are my Southern Mtn Rifles. You like the Plains Rifle. My .54 East Tenn style rifle is my go to rifle. It will be hunting soon Elk and Antelope season start in August. :grin:
 
AS you might have seen from the Dragoon video, the .454 balls are too small. I have lots of them, as they work fine in my 1860 army, but it appears I need .457 for this baby.

The patches seem to work okay, but that's no fun; these things are a project to load as it is. :)
Hickok45
 
If you fiddle with the fit of the wedge on Colts. You can get a thumb fit in and out. the same with the fit of the barrel on the frame.

I shoot CAS, and have to take out the cylinder out of two Colts 6 times during an event.

I do this so I can use a cylinder loader. I find it twice as fast as loading in the gun. As a nice side bonus for doing it this way is I can keep the arbor lubed.

Once you have a nice smooth fit to the wedge and barrel to frame. It's amazing how fast you can remove and install the cylinder. Much faster than a Remington that always seems to have a sticky pin from fouling.
 
That's always been a difficult task with my guns, getting the wedge in and out. I'm pretty handy with a Dremel, though. So, I could probably smooth and polish down the wedge to where it will more easily go in and out?

What about the screw; do you just loosen it a little, or take it completely out each time you take off the barrel?
Thanks,
Hickok45
 
A properly fitted wedge can be popped free and set with thumb pressure alone. You should not have to either loosen or remove the screw; it is there to keep the wedge from falling out when you remove the barrel.
 
Are you taking the wedge completely out? If so, there is no need for that , just tap it back far enough to allow the barrel to come off. I do not mess with the screw. I think it is there to limit how far the wedge goes in and to capture the spring on the wedge to prevent it coming all the way out.

P
 
Hickok said:
That's always been a difficult task with my guns, getting the wedge in and out. I'm pretty handy with a Dremel, though. So, I could probably smooth and polish down the wedge to where it will more easily go in and out?

What about the screw; do you just loosen it a little, or take it completely out each time you take off the barrel?
Thanks,
Hickok45

As was said already. The screw is to keep the wedge from falling out. No need to touch it.

Be careful with a Dremel. You can take off too much too fast. I do it by hand with different grades of emery paper.
 
Dremel's are one of the most dangerous things invented when it comes to working on a gun.

They do have their uses but they sure can screw up things in a hurry.
 
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