Compress Powder When Loading?

[Brady]

Hi all, I shot the navy 44 for the first time a couple of days ago and I am in love. You all know why. I shot 30 grain loads of goex fffg and was wondering if I should compress the load as tightly as possible, to the point of crushing the powder down to smaller granules? I'm a stout guy and I noticed that I could compress it to the point of getting the powder crunch, but I could also compress it beyond that. I know it's a noob question, so be gentle. :grin: Thanks in advance.

 

[nkbj]

Well, depending on who made it and how you do it, you can damage a Colt design revolver during the process of compressing the load. So I'd say don't do it to extreme.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

I always compress powder. BUT powder compression is not just leaning on the loading lever all you can.

For instance, when match shooting, after all these years, I can seat the ball slowly and then push with just a few pounds force and then fell the "crunch" of the powder being slightly compressed. Absent having a fancy spring loaded tension lever to make the compression uniform, it just takes practice. Kind of like when a first time learner gets behind the wheel of any vehicle and over steers and over compensates the other way to correct. It just takes a little practice. With my Ruger and Remmi repro I have been doing it so long, I can do it by feel. You just want to feel that "crunch" like gravel grinding together. It takes only a little force.

A friend built a cylinder loading stand that has a spring on the plunger so it does not put more than 12 pounds (IIRC) pressure on the plunger pushing the ball down. Compression helps to an extent, but uniformity from shot to shot is even more important. Compressing chambers to different amounts will adversely affect accuracy. And lastly, you have to be very accustomed to your gun and a pretty fair shot, to even know the difference between compression and not compressing.

to some folks compression means trying to press the powder into a pellet. To me, it means seating the ball against the powder with the same tight snugness every time.

 

[necchi]

Well said zimmer,
Brady, just read the two posts above a few times and you'll get it all.

 

[Many Klatch]

The secret to blackpowder accuracy is consistency. As long as you compress the powder the same amount, use the same lube, caps and ball then you will start to get smaller groups.

It doesn't matter how hard you pack the powder (up to a point) as long as you do it the same way each time. Find a pressure that works for you that doesn't destroy the loading lever or pack the powder into a solid pill of black dust and you should be OK.

Many Klatch

 

[crockett]

Here's how I do it...
1. You want to measure the powder charge. Consistent powder charges are desired.
2. You don't want an air space between the powder and the ball so listen for a "crunch" but as long as the ball is on the powder nothing is gained from additional seating or crunching.
3. Rather than ultimate "crunch" it is more important to have a consistent seating depth on the ball. I scribed a line on the rammer and hold the pistol at eye height and seat until the line on the rammer is in line with the frame. The ball ought to be about 1/8" into the chamber (below the cylinder end). Use enough powder to accomplish this or a combination of powder and filler or powder and wad.

 

[Brady]

Thanks for the information, gang. :hatsoff:

 

[George T.]

You are right about the advise above. I agree and when I seat the ball on top of the felt pad I just intend to assure that there will not be any air space. It seems to result in fast fireing. Any misses are on me! Geo. T.

 

[M. De Land]

I got to wear I made a cylinder loading press to do it now after many years of loading in the gun.
It is more consistent to get the ball compression exact in each chamber because it has a mechanical stop.
It has more leverage and is easier on the revolver and your hand. I don't use it on my open top gun as I don't like removing the wedge repeatedly but on the Ruger and Remington it is really nice. MD

 

[Brady]

I really like the ideas of a loading press but probably won't look into one unless an ROA ends up in the collection. One of the reasons I have enjoyed firearms so much over the years is the repetative routine of safe handling and adapting to the quirks of each gun. It's like beef jerky for my OCD. :wink: The other day I held the navy the same way every time I compressed the load so hopefully I'll get the consistency down before too long.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

As others have already stated, consistency is your friend. Some revolvers allow greater pressure with the loading lever & rammer than others. For the gun you have now, just try to seat the ball to the same depth in each chamber. The more you shoot it, the better you'll get at "feelin' what's right".

Your groups will shrink when you've found "that sweet spot" that your gun likes.

Have FUN!

Dave

 

[Blizzard of '93]

some good advice from obviously experienced c&b shooters.

 

[aeatwood]

And if you experiment with different powders, you will find they have their own preference for compression.

In my experience, 3F likes just enough compression to feel the ball seat against the grains. Very light crunch. 2F likes a good bit more compression, crunch, then a bit of movement.

IIRC, Hogdon recommends about 80 pounds of compression for Pyro. You won't get that loading a cylinder on a revolver w/o eventually damaging the loading lever. or frame, in the case of a brasser. or both.

As has been mentioned above, consistency is the key. Even a good shot with a pistol will not have success with any BP pistol until he has simply practiced by loading it over and over.

 

[crockett]

Interesting on the 3f vs 2f, I always use 3f and do the slight crunch, never thought about more with the 2f.

 

[Blizzard of '93]

seems I recollect the makers of Pyrocrap recommend a compressed load for more complete ignition