• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Coneing a Barrel ???

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
stinkfoot said:
Been using water soaked square pillow ticking patches forever in my GRRW .58 fer stand up on yer hind laigs and shoot work;......they work great and no slimy mess.
Sperm oil fer hunting (which i don't do much anymore) it always has been plumb center fer me.

I use suare thick patches in my .58 for sit down on your hind legs and shoot work.......Bear grease for hunting lube for me. :thumbsup:
 
Wattsy said:
Billnpatti said:
Here's your answer. I have one and they work great and are easy to use but require the patience to do the job right. If you are someone who gets in a hurry or is easily frustrated by the emery paper getting out of alignment, you might want to pay a gunsmith to do it for you. I just take my time and re-adjust or replace the emery paper when it gets twisted up. Some barrels take m ore time and others go pretty fast. It all depends on how hard the steel is.

I have done all of my muzzleloaders and am quite happy with the results. I use pre-cut patches but if you like to cut yours at the muzzle, the coning makes it a bit harder to cut the patch without pulling your ball out of the muzzle. Use pre-cut patches and you will have very little, if any, use for a short starter. Just press the ball in with your thumb and seat it with your ram rod. It eliminates one more item you have to remember and fool with when loading. :thumbsup:
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=4330.0[/quote]


Sooooo whats the differance between the coned barrel and T/C's QLA that most folks on here are so down on? :hmm:

T/C QLA is not coned ..its reamed horizontal with the barrel..for ease of loading the dreaded sabots! This shortens the rifling by an inch or so..conning is a slight taper coned shape.
Normal cone no loss of rifling.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I think most people cone them too deep.
I have distrust of something that makes the ball/bore fit that loose at the muzzle.
Even coned only this far the loading is greatly eased.
P1050041.jpg


BTW this is the fouling in a 58 after a proof of 220 gr of FFF Swiss and 2 patched balls. But the fouling and lighting make the crown show very well.

The only way to test the cone vs no cone would be to shoot a barrel with a careful crown doing what it takes to get best group and then cone it and test again. Would take a few pounds of powder and some lead. A good set of sights, tang and globe front would be needed as well.
A good barrel off the bench should shoot just about through the same hole, but sights are a limiting factor. I watched a friend shoot 15 shots though a hole in the back stop that would just accept my thumb 5 for sighters and 10 for score. 45 caliber Green Mt. barrel distance was 60 yards.
Average distance from center for 10 shots was less than .37".
So shooting into 1.5" at 50 yards is no assurance that accuracy has not been effected.

Dan
 
Dan Phariss said:
I think most people cone them too deep.
I have distrust of something that makes the ball/bore fit that loose at the muzzle.
Even coned only this far the loading is greatly eased.
P1050041.jpg


BTW this is the fouling in a 58 after a proof of 220 gr of FFF Swiss and 2 patched balls. But the fouling and lighting make the crown show very well.

The only way to test the cone vs no cone would be to shoot a barrel with a careful crown doing what it takes to get best group and then cone it and test again. Would take a few pounds of powder and some lead. A good set of sights, tang and globe front would be needed as well.
A good barrel off the bench should shoot just about through the same hole, but sights are a limiting factor. I watched a friend shoot 15 shots though a hole in the back stop that would just accept my thumb 5 for sighters and 10 for score. 45 caliber Green Mt. barrel distance was 60 yards.
Average distance from center for 10 shots was less than .37".
So shooting into 1.5" at 50 yards is no assurance that accuracy has not been effected.

Dan


This makes more sence...The one pic above made it look more like a QLA as the ball was almost below the lip of the barrel.
 
Dan... Like the mini cone does it tear patches?..Glad to hear you have a friend that can shoot that good..I will never win any shooting matches..my eyes are good to 75 yards..with 54 cal that's just about right in my book..This is a hunting barrel only..and the coning improved the ease of loading..I'm happy... hope your are too. thank you for sharing the pic's of your barrel cone....Dan
 
Wattsy said:
Dan Phariss said:
I think most people cone them too deep.
I have distrust of something that makes the ball/bore fit that loose at the muzzle.
Even coned only this far the loading is greatly eased.
P1050041.jpg


BTW this is the fouling in a 58 after a proof of 220 gr of FFF Swiss and 2 patched balls. But the fouling and lighting make the crown show very well.

The only way to test the cone vs no cone would be to shoot a barrel with a careful crown doing what it takes to get best group and then cone it and test again. Would take a few pounds of powder and some lead. A good set of sights, tang and globe front would be needed as well.
A good barrel off the bench should shoot just about through the same hole, but sights are a limiting factor. I watched a friend shoot 15 shots though a hole in the back stop that would just accept my thumb 5 for sighters and 10 for score. 45 caliber Green Mt. barrel distance was 60 yards.
Average distance from center for 10 shots was less than .37".
So shooting into 1.5" at 50 yards is no assurance that accuracy has not been effected.

Dan


This makes more sence...The one pic above made it look more like a QLA as the ball was almost below the lip of the barrel.


The picture with the rb flush with the muzzle was intended to show the difference in patch thickness..The second picture 3/4 thumb start is the patch that this barrel shoots the best...read the patch red white is .018 all white .027..just wanted to show the difference.Yes it does look like too much or too deep with the thin patch..can see your point...Dan
 
DBJ..one point I need to make ...I will not cone a barrel till I find a ball patch combo that shoots to my satisfaction..at that point I cone for that ball-patch combo for ease of loading. Just keep testing the ball-patch dry no lube (while coning)till its at the depth I want...This has worked for me.....Dan
 

Latest posts

Back
Top