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Conical for my New Englander?

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ORBushman

"In the Woods"
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I bought a T/C Maxi Ball mould to use for shooting Elk. But, for our smaller blacktails I am tossed on which one to use. I am looking at the Lee R.E.A.L. 250gr or 320gr moulds. Cannot afford both right now so, anyone got some experience and technical thoughts as to which they would suggest? Conical dummy here so, appreciate all thoughts.

Also, are they hollow based or solid based?
 
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I bought a T/C Maxi Ball mould to use for shooting Elk but, for our smaller blacktails I am tossed on which one to use. I am looking at the Lee R.E.A.L. 250gr or 320gr moulds. Cannot afford both right now so, anyone got some experience and technical thoughts as to which they would suggest? Conical dummy here so, appreciate all thoughts.

Also, are they hollow based or solid based?
Maxi is a solid base. My exp. with the 2 are the Real works well with lighter charges of powder. The Maxi as its name is used likes to use heavier loads, a .50 cal you could start out at 65 gr n work up in 5 gr increments. Ok the Lee in 250 or 320, the lighter works better with the lighter loads. Lee's Real bullets do not like being pushed hard or fast. I would say the 250 REAL should punch through the lung/chest area shots using 55 gr on up. I have the 320 for my .50, i have the lighter weight 300 for my .54 Renegade. At this time in my life i don't load any of my 5 ML's over 85 gr
 
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Maxi is a solid base. My exp. with the 2 are the Real works well with lighter charges of powder. The Maxi as its name is used likes to use heavier loads, a .50 cal you could start out at 65 gr n work up in 5 gr increments. Ok the Lee in 250 or 320, the lighter works better with the lighter loads. Lee's Real bullets do not like being pushed hard or fast. I would say the 250 REAL should punch through the lung/chest area shots using 55 gr on up. I have the 320 for my .50, i have the lighter weight 300 for my .54 Renegade. At this time in my life i don't load any of my 5 ML's over 85 gr
Thank you for the info. I was kind of thinking the R.E.A.L. 250gr would be good enough for the blacktail we have. If the Hornady .490 round ball @177gr can get it done, I figured the 250gr should take care of business. Have you taken any deer using the 320gr with your .50?
 
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What is wrong with using the Maxi-Ball ( that you already have the mold for..) on Blacktails..??
Help us understand why the Maxi isn't suitable and we'll be better able to point you in a direction.
 
I'd push a .495 round ball down the muzzle and bring the deer home.
^^^This all day.^^^

I've tried every imaginable combination of powder, patch and projectile in my 1:66 rifles. Nothing works better than PRB.

I can throw REAL bullets down range and get better accuracy.

OP may get better results in his 1:48.
 
This ? is one of many that people have n ask . What we shoot to suit ourselves is not the ? Maybe the man wants something diff, to try or work up loads to hunt with. To me what ever a person wants to do n likes makes for a happy person. Whats not to like about a little happiness .
 
This ? is one of many that people have n ask . What we shoot to suit ourselves is not the ? Maybe the man wants something diff, to try or work up loads to hunt with. To me what ever a person wants to do n likes makes for a happy person. Whats not to like about a little happiness .
There's a lot of science behind making things fly straight. Planes. wayward children, pigs, bullets. If someone wants to try something, great. Have at it. But when someone asks for assistance, people will try and assist. That's why the OP, all OPs, ask questions.

There's a lot of savvy shooters on this forum. Shooters who've spent several decades building up their skills. What will work. What may work. What won't work in a lifetime of trying.

If someone comes on here and says, HEY, I've got this great idea for a new baseball. They say it's brown, oblong in shape, has four leather panels and white laces, many will chime in and say, HEY, that perfectly round white ball with the red stitches will probably work better.

Because it's already been proven to work better.
 
There's a lot of science behind making things fly straight. Planes. wayward children, pigs, bullets. If someone wants to try something, great. Have at it. But when someone asks for assistance, people will try and assist. That's why the OP, all OPs, ask questions.

There's a lot of savvy shooters on this forum. Shooters who've spent several decades building up their skills. What will work. What may work. What won't work in a lifetime of trying.

If someone comes on here and says, HEY, I've got this great idea for a new baseball. They say it's brown, oblong in shape, has four leather panels and white laces, many will chime in and say, HEY, that perfectly round white ball with the red stitches will probably work better.

Because it's already been proven to work better.
Yes sir that is correct what you have stated. Maybe the sand box is round maybe sq. or rect. its all good. None of my 6 ML's are rb shooters, i have 2 that show some promise out at 50 yds. I have not finished working up loads to try at 75 n 100 yds yet. I have 4 that are not good at 75 yds on out with their groups. The twists are not rb correct to my way of thinking. Have a good one
 
Yes sir that is correct what you have stated. Maybe the sand box is round maybe sq. or rect. its all good. None of my 6 ML's are rb shooters, i have 2 that show some promise out at 50 yds. I have not finished working up loads to try at 75 n 100 yds yet. I have 4 that are not good at 75 yds on out with their groups. The twists are not rb correct to my way of thinking. Have a good one
Sandbox.

The OP invited us to use it.
 
Depends on the twist and depth of the rifling. Conicals usually don’t seal well if rifling is over .005” deep. Yes, an over powder card helps but I view that as an extra activity that is unnecessary if the right projectile is used. Then a twist of 1:24” is better but up to 1:48 works if heavier charges are used to achieve the needed RPS.
 
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