conical lube

[Walks with fire]

Does anyone here have a good homemade formula for conical lube? One of my rifles likes the Great Plains bullets but they are just a .001 or so loose once it gets down the bore. I would like to use these for hunting but to be honest I am quite concerned about them slipping off the charge.

Seems like a lube that was a little sticky if that's the word would prevent that from happening. Maybe a paper wrap just below the driving band would tighten it up enough and still shoot good.

Who has some opinions on this subject. The GP 385 grain Hp is the bullet I am using and it's out of a GM 1/28 twist barreled flinter. These things are so accurate I just have to try them this season but it needs to stay on the charge.

 

[reddog]

Paper patch, dip in melted 50 50 beeswax/olive oil, probably wont leave any lead in bbl. wrap paper opposite to rifleing twist .

 

[gjkershul]

I use a slight modification of the US Ordinance formula. The Ordinance mix was 9 parts beeswax to one part beef tallow. I use 9 parts beeswax to one part olive oil because I do not have easy access to non salt containing beef tallow.
It makes a hard pan climatic lube that does not get messy or bleed into the powder charge in the 90-105 temps we have here for part of the year.

Btw I have found that the Great Plains .54 bullet does not shift in my GPR after a day of bouncing around in an ATV gun rack.

 

[jtmattison]

I don't think you have to worry about the bullet slipping off the charge. Unless of course you carry muzzle down and run through the woods a lot. :haha:
Seriously, I have done tests with several projectiles going as far as tapping the muzzle on the carpet and the bullets didn't slip.
You might want to consider experimenting just to see if your bullet does slide and what it takes to make it do it.
I'll bet it's a lot harder to make it slide than you think.
:hatsoff:

HD

 

[Blizzard of '93]

I shoot the Lee REAL slug in my .50 lubed w/a 50-50 mix of beeswax and Mink Oil boot dressing melted together and stirred up, I dip the slugs into the mix while it's hot.

 

[poordevil]

50/50 bees wax I get from Michaels craft store you might find it cheaper in your area. I now use Muttom tallow from Dixie G W but for many many years i used sausge drippings. Some will say that salt in the drippings is bad but I cleaned my Musketoon after every shooting and never left it loaded over night. After 33 years it is still going strong.

P.

 

[boar]

Old Timer(Tom Pike) showed me how to keep a TC maxi-ball from drifting in my barrel. He said to lightly tap the bottom to spread a bit,it makes them a little harder to load but it works. Heres another way I did them. Put maxis in freezer till cold, melt beeswax in microwave, dip maxis in wax. The bullets being cold makes them get a thicker coat. Shot them in a block of wood, still had the wax on them.If carrying in the cold weather keep next to body, because if they get to cold they will be brittle. dilly

 

[Idaho Ron]

Does anyone here have a good homemade formula for conical lube? One of my rifles likes the Great Plains bullets but they are just a .001 or so loose once it gets down the bore. I would like to use these for hunting but to be honest I am quite concerned about them slipping off the charge.

Seems like a lube that was a little sticky if that's the word would prevent that from happening. Maybe a paper wrap just below the driving band would tighten it up enough and still shoot good.

Who has some opinions on this subject. The GP 385 grain Hp is the bullet I am using and it's out of a GM 1/28 twist barreled flinter. These things are so accurate I just have to try them this season but it needs to stay on the charge.

I have the same barrel as you for my TC Renegades, but mine use caps. Actually I have two both of mine are stainless steel. One uses a Hornady Great plains 410 gr bullet, same as the 385 but no hollow point. I have shot that bullet a lot and I have killed 3 mule deer with it, two were trophys. The other rifle uses only paper patched bullets I will get into that later.
For conical lube I use "White Label Lube co" BPCR Supreme. I doesn't cost very much and it WON'T melt in the heat. It WILL help your bullets stay on the powder.
Now if you want to paper patch that is another way to go, and it is a very accurate.
The bullet I make for paper patching. It is a Lee C-501-440-RF. When I pour them out of pure lead they are 456 grains, and I call them the Moose Maulers. I load them Paper Patched with 80 grains of Pyrodex P, and a home made wool over powder wad lubed with Hornady Great plains lube just before I shoot. When I am hunting I don't use any lube. I have seen lube cause paper to fail.
This load has proved to shoot Sub 2” groups at 100 yards.

Paper patching is a great way to go but I think you will be fine with the 385's just the way they are. I have hunted a BUNCH with mine and the 410's and have never had them come off the charge. If I were you I would not let it bother me one bit. Load them and show us a picture of your deer on the ground.
Ron