thinking of coning my wife's barrel on her caplock so it will be easier for her to load. she does ok now but i think it would be better for her. has anybody had any accuracy issues after coning?
coning a barrel question
- Thread starter olskool
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If it is done correctly there shouldn't be, but if not there probably will be.
dragnetbill
36 Cal.
If I'm reading your post correctly, your saying that "it" aint broke and your thinking of fixing "it" when one of the possible outcomes could be having to answer to higher authority when she says, "You did what to my rifle?"
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Perhaps , recrown the muzzle , so it isn't as sharp as most , and smooth the crown up with fine emery cloth , and your thumb. Make her short starter with a concave nose so the starter centers on the ball. Make sure the short starter has a generous rounded surface , so it starter doesn't injure the palm of her hand. ...........oldwood
rafterob
62 Cal.
So, she is out shooting you now and you thought you would "fix" her barrel?
longcruise
70 Cal.
I do a muzzle/crown treatment that isn't coning but is part way there. It's always been beneficial. If a gun is hard to start the ball but then subsequently fairly easy to seat the ball it's probably a candidate for some help. The tighter the load the better.........unless the patch is getting wrecked when it's started.
There is an underlying assumption here, that coning makes loading easier. Does it or is that what folks selling the tools are telling us?
I’ve seen where coning helps get the ball down 2” then it’s harder to seat the ball the rest of the way than a non-coned barrel. This is because without coning, the smack of the short starter engraves the rifling on the ball with one forceful short movement. Then it loads the rest of the way easily.
With coning there is a much more gradual engraving of the rifling and can take more effort and s greater distance to complete.
I’ve seen where coning helps get the ball down 2” then it’s harder to seat the ball the rest of the way than a non-coned barrel. This is because without coning, the smack of the short starter engraves the rifling on the ball with one forceful short movement. Then it loads the rest of the way easily.
With coning there is a much more gradual engraving of the rifling and can take more effort and s greater distance to complete.
hanshi
Cannon
Polishing the crown to rid the barrel of that sharp muzzle entrance is just so easy and works like a charm.
I coned the barrel of the rifle in my avatar. It helps loading although I still end up using a short starter for extended shooting if I'm not using a range rod, but I can load it without the short starter, e.g., for a reload while hunting.
Neither accuracy nor point of impact were affected. I shot this offhand at 50 yards after coning the muzzle. POA was 6 o'clock on the black.
I used MLF member Flintsteel's coning tool. Follow his clear directions and cone with confidence.
Neither accuracy nor point of impact were affected. I shot this offhand at 50 yards after coning the muzzle. POA was 6 o'clock on the black.
I used MLF member Flintsteel's coning tool. Follow his clear directions and cone with confidence.
I would not mess with the muzzle if it's shooting good.
If it's damaged yes.
The short starter is good idea but put a pad on it so it's more user friendly.
Try a thinner patch. To see if it will stay accurate.
Does it have shallow or deep riflings?
If deep try a ball .005 smaller so you can stay with the patch you are using.
PRB should be just tight enough to get some printing of the patch on the ball. That's not as tight as you think. IMHO tight enough is almost able to thumb press in the muzzle.
At that point it's an easy start and ram.
My 50 cal, shallow riflings shoots great with a .015 patch but shoots just as good with a .010 and is easier to start.
The advantage is using the ,015 every 3-5 shots to push the fouling down.
Works for me. Rarely place 4th or worse in competition.
If it's damaged yes.
The short starter is good idea but put a pad on it so it's more user friendly.
Try a thinner patch. To see if it will stay accurate.
Does it have shallow or deep riflings?
If deep try a ball .005 smaller so you can stay with the patch you are using.
PRB should be just tight enough to get some printing of the patch on the ball. That's not as tight as you think. IMHO tight enough is almost able to thumb press in the muzzle.
At that point it's an easy start and ram.
My 50 cal, shallow riflings shoots great with a .015 patch but shoots just as good with a .010 and is easier to start.
The advantage is using the ,015 every 3-5 shots to push the fouling down.
Works for me. Rarely place 4th or worse in competition.
Jedidiah
Old, Grumpy & still kickin !
longcruise
70 Cal.
I
I do much the same thing except i drill the hole in the side of the ball on the short starter a 1/4 turn from the starting nub. Get the balls at the same place.
I do much the same thing except i drill the hole in the side of the ball on the short starter a 1/4 turn from the starting nub. Get the balls at the same place.
Jedidiah
Old, Grumpy & still kickin !
I found for me, for field use, Liked that the "stick" part is not attached. it goes in a pocket or pouch easier for me.
well, we just came in from our range, she shot about 50 times and did very well now that she is used to it, so i will just leave it as is,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
