converting from percussion to flint

[Pioneer flinter]

Hey fellas i have a southern mountain rifle i picked up a couple of years ago. It has a L&R john bailes percussion lock on it i just ordered the flint version of this lock from TOTW. What is your opinion of this lock? The drum is threaded 3/8x24 the only touch hole i can find is the TOTW with the slotted face. Any advice on drilling for the lock screw? Thank you guys for all your help.

 

[Dane]

In my opinion. The only L&R lock that's usable. It will need some tuning, but can be a good serviceable lock.
Seems kinda small for a good sized rifle though.
Are you sure it's not a Durs Egg?

 

[don hepler]

I don't know about switching out locks, as far as getting the alignment correct. But, I bought a custom SMR and the builder, told me that he could use a builders lock, to replace mine, to convert it from cap to flint.

The builders lock, has a rectangular plate and can be shaped to match the original lock, that came in the gun.

Of course there might not have been a flint lock, in the style of my cap lock.

Just throwing out ideas, for your rifle, or others who are considering the conversion.

 

[Pioneer flinter]

I measured it to the track catalog. it look exact in size and inards.

 

[BigBoreBLR]

A few things to consider.

Your lock inlet and your pre drilled touch hole are predetermined. It's a coin toss if the will match up ok with the pan.

Smr's typically have 1 lock bolt. You may need to change where it is possibly. You may need to buy a new lock plate. Easiest way to get lock bolts in the stock and lockplate right is with a drill Press. The base of the press has a pointed tip bolt to point where the drill will come out to. Things to keep in mind with lock bolts. Clearing the ram rod channel, the extra tang metal sticking out past the rear of the barrel. And of course the bolts not getting into moving parts, like the main spring as.

You might need to use a different lock plate to make it work.

 

[necchi]

Think about that 3/8x24 hole in the barrel.

You can plug that with a solid bolt if you want.

Now if you 'really" think about it, you can make your own touch hole from that solid bolt..
Cut a section off, cut a "screwdriver slot" and drill your own hole in it. You can fabricate it any way you want.
It's simply a 3/8 tapped to 24 thread,, hole.

The lock? Well your going to have to wait until ya get it in hand,, maybe you can just tap a hole in it from the existing hole(s) in the stock.
We don't know do we?
So let us know when you run into a problem.

p.s.; Don't use cheap filler to patch "gap's" that may occur with the lock change. If that's a problem, ask, there are several way's to make a decent fit.

 

[necchi]

post-post script;
The biggest deal is getting the pan of the new lock tight against the barrel right?
(oh, you probably know that already, sorry)

 

[okawbow]

I did the same conversion with the L&R Bedford county locks. The touch hole ended up just slightly off of the perfect position, but worked perfect.

You may need to do a little filing on the new lock or some slight removal of wood to get a perfect fit.

When you get the new lock flush against the barrel; run a lock bolt sized drill through the existing hole in the stock, and spot the new lock just deep enough to mark the position of the hole. Then drill the tap hole with the lock in place, with the tap drill. Then carefully tap the hole through the stock into the lock plate.

The bolt should line up perfectly.

 

[Pioneer flinter]

Thanks fellas for your input. i will think all this over while im waiting for the lock.