Cows knee??
- Thread starter Idaho Ron
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Ron, I made a very simple one with a small piece of deerskin. I attached ties at each end, folded the hide so as to make a peak and sewed it in place, treated the whole thing with beeswax and lard melted thoroughly into the leather. I’ve used it in real rains for many years and it has served me very well.
The knee opened out to show the stitching which makes it tent up:
The knee wrapped on the gun. I can tuck it snuggly when traveling, or just wrap it very loosely if on stand so it is very quickly removeable.
It’s thin and flexible so it wraps up into a small bundle which fits out of the way into my shooting bag.
Here it is in action in the rain.
Spence
The knee opened out to show the stitching which makes it tent up:
The knee wrapped on the gun. I can tuck it snuggly when traveling, or just wrap it very loosely if on stand so it is very quickly removeable.
It’s thin and flexible so it wraps up into a small bundle which fits out of the way into my shooting bag.
Here it is in action in the rain.
Spence
Yep. That's the drill.
Mine's a skanky old car chamois that I worked melted beeswax into after years of car wax.
Wrap the straps around the stock and tuck one end under when moving and just let it hang if you're sitting (I like to find a hemlock to be under when it's raining or snowing).
Makes a good hot-pad to lift the boil cup off the fire at the campsite as well. :hatsoff:
Mine's a skanky old car chamois that I worked melted beeswax into after years of car wax.
Wrap the straps around the stock and tuck one end under when moving and just let it hang if you're sitting (I like to find a hemlock to be under when it's raining or snowing).
Makes a good hot-pad to lift the boil cup off the fire at the campsite as well. :hatsoff:
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Or if you have a love for modern plasticy things....
:rotf:
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IIRC Dhaversick made a really nice cows knee with a single belly strap.
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My experience with them is in serious rain country. They all share one weakness. Rain can run down the barrel and through the little gap where barrel meets forend.
It's one thing to swear you'll keep the muzzle down, but another to do so with the usual tough footing in steep hunting terrain.
My solution is a purely PC strip of black electrical tape over the muzzle to keep out mud, sticks, grass, you name it. You can build a beeswax "dam" where the edge of the knee meets the barrel/forend to allow you to hunt more realistically with the muzzle up. But in that case I'd still go with the tape muzzle cover.
It's one thing to swear you'll keep the muzzle down, but another to do so with the usual tough footing in steep hunting terrain.
My solution is a purely PC strip of black electrical tape over the muzzle to keep out mud, sticks, grass, you name it. You can build a beeswax "dam" where the edge of the knee meets the barrel/forend to allow you to hunt more realistically with the muzzle up. But in that case I'd still go with the tape muzzle cover.
I guess it depends on your hunting situation and style. I usually see the game coming in time to shoulder and cock, slipping the knee off takes only an additional second. I slip my trigger-hand glove off in cold weather, and that takes a lot more time.
That picture is for show and tell, I usually have the gun in my hands in some way, not parked away from me like that.
I don't jump shoot deer or turkey. I do sometimes hunt squirrels on the move, and then I fasten one of the ties to my clothes so that the motion of raising the gun drags the knee off, and that works OK.
My way wouldn't work for everyone in all situations.
Spence
That picture is for show and tell, I usually have the gun in my hands in some way, not parked away from me like that.
I don't jump shoot deer or turkey. I do sometimes hunt squirrels on the move, and then I fasten one of the ties to my clothes so that the motion of raising the gun drags the knee off, and that works OK.
My way wouldn't work for everyone in all situations.
Spence
Black Hand
Cannon
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Mine gets tied to the trigger-guard and rarely is tied around the gun unless it is being leaned against a tree after hunting is done. Even then, it is tied loosely so it can be removed easily.sidelock said:
The leather has enough grease that the leather sticks to the wood/metal without the need to tie it is place - still protects the lock. Being tied to the trigger-guard allows it to be removed without needing to find it a home when time is of the essence. It just hangs there until I'm done.
CrackStock
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I once made a "cow's knee" of painted canvas. This material was suggested to me on an earlier web resource and it was inexpensive and easy to work. It also worked fairly well.
However during the discussion, an old timer suggested that I avoid the item as it was not of great benefit if actively walking in the woods. He stated that I should consider tucking the lock under my armpit and keeping my muzzle down. If I was wearing a great coat, cape or other weather gear, just drape whatever was available over the back of the gun.
I tried both the "cow's knee" and armpit carry methods in rain and snow for hunting and reenactments. The armpit method was vastly superior for a multitude of reasons.
Might not have told you how to make the best "cow's knee" but I suggest that you give the armpit carry method a try.
CS
However during the discussion, an old timer suggested that I avoid the item as it was not of great benefit if actively walking in the woods. He stated that I should consider tucking the lock under my armpit and keeping my muzzle down. If I was wearing a great coat, cape or other weather gear, just drape whatever was available over the back of the gun.
I tried both the "cow's knee" and armpit carry methods in rain and snow for hunting and reenactments. The armpit method was vastly superior for a multitude of reasons.
Might not have told you how to make the best "cow's knee" but I suggest that you give the armpit carry method a try.
CS
Brokennock
Cannon
FWIW to anyone, I just made one using the pattern Colorado Clyde posted. It's,,,, serviceable. I will make another based off that pattern, with a few changes. 1st, for a rock lock it needs to be bigger (mostly longer), second, it needs to be stitched up with the intention of not turning it inside out or something needs to be done about that long seam down the center of the barrel end of the cover. When turned so the sewn welt is inside the welt hits the barrel making it tough to get a seal there. I will cut my next one longer as well as a lot wider. Thinking if I cut it way oversize width wise, I can recut it after sewing so that the seem is off center and drops in next to the barrel. I'm also toying with the idea of cutting two triangles out of the barrel end, each half the width of the one the pattern calls for and spaced so each seam falls on either side of the barrel. Also, the rear welt should be a little longer, for a rock lock. Other than the front welt hitting the barrel it think this pattern would work well as is for a percussion lock.
