Cracked forearm and tapered ramrod

[rebel727]

I've got an old percussion SXS with a crack under the throat inlay that's spread open, doesn't look like it in the pics but it is. There's too much curve to clamp it. Any ideas on how to hold the crack shut while the glue dries? Also the tip of the ramrod is broken off and the ramrod is tapered. Is there an easy way to taper a new one?

Don't have a pic of the crack itself but you can see how much curve there is.

 

[rich pierce]

Spread it good to get the glue in there. Then wrap it up as tight as you possibly can with a bicycle inner tube. Just overlap it a couple times to hold it on there overnight. If you don't have an inner tube, go to the local bike shop and ask them for a flat tube- if you ask them to cut it in half they will give it to you (they don't want folks to patch their give-away tubes).

 

[Ephraim]

I taper my rods with broken glass. Just made one for my wm.moore dubble maid it out of 3/4" cherry dow took about 4 hrs.


Ephraim

 

[spottedpony]

a little more involved, but if you have access to a band saw, or jig saw, you can cut out a profile from an appropriate sized block of scrap wood, then cut the profile in half, so you have a left and right half of the profile, test the fit and file or sand as necessary to get a close match. line the blocks (this also pads the wood so clamping damage isnt as likly) with a scrap piece of leather, or denim being sure not to lap into the joint where you cut the block in two, as that would prevent the wood blocks you've made from closing tightly, Dry fit and clamp with C clamps or a vise to ensure the blocks will squeeze your crack shut, then glue the crack and clamp overnight.
Be sure to use a waterproof glue.
this method is slow and does require some fitting to get the clamp blocks shaped right, but will give good strong clamping pressure to ensure a solid repair.

 

[wulf]

EXACTLY WHAT i WOULD SUGGEST AND FOR ALL THE
SAME REASONS... EXCELLANT ADVICE,,,,,,,

 

[rebel727]

I think I'll try the inner tube first. If that doesn't work I'll try your way. I'm not real good at shaping wood.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Ditto, rubber used for such can be a real saver. I would wax up the rubber well or wrap object to be glued or epoxied with wax paper.

 

[J.D.]

Use an old pair of scissors. Spread the blades and clamp the handles in a vise, blades up. Pulling the rod through the bottom of the V cuts two sides at once. The last rod I made took less that 30 minutes from start to finish.

A 60 grit grinding belt does it even faster, but makes a LOT more mess.
J.D.

 

[Ephraim]

I tryed a power sander I didn't like using it. I will try the scissors sounds like a time saver. I taper my rods when setting arount the camp fire or when cat fishing so time don't matter much. That was the way dad and my uncles did there hickory and ash handles on there tools .

Ephraim

 

[rebel727]

Thanks, I might can handle that. :grin:

 

[ricklandes]

I chuck the dowel in my drill and sand away. Use calipers to check you progress and keep your sand paper moving. I also like to polish the final finish on the tapered rods the same way.

The rubber tube is an excellent suggestion.

 

In place of inner tube try surgical tubing. it is 100% rubber and will stretch very well and then contract to put maximum clamping pressure where you want it. Great stuff for clamping chair legs and such. My local Sears hardware used to carry it - but have not needed any for quites some time so i don't know if they still carry it.

 

[Ephraim]

I tryed your scissors trick on a rod for a gun I am building now good tip went fast. But I will still taper some when fishing and siting around the camp fire it passes time in a nice way.

Ephraim