Cracked Stock

[reskite]

I was just getting ready to put this rifle up for sale when I realized there is a crack in the stock. Funny, but I've never noticed it before. I only fired this rifle once after purchasing it and never noticed. Not quite sure what to do with it, but I see it originates exactly where the barrel joins the breech. Is this indicative of some greater difficulty than cracked wood? I have repaired cracks similar to this on single shots with epoxy. Is there anything different about this flaw that would indicate a different approach? It's a .54cal Browning Mountain Rifle. Thanks so much for your attention.

 

[jdw276]

When the barrel is assembled into the stock after cleaning, the hook was is not fully seated. When you pull the barrel down to rest in the stock, it catches on the stock and the force creates the crack. Mine and others go towards the lock screw as can be seen in the photo, stock weak point.

 

[Winchester97]

I had a TC Hawken with a similar crack. I just drilled and pinned it from under the tang, and from up through the trigger plate after removing the trigger. Then I forced wood glue into every part of the crack and clamped it. Nearly invisible with original finish. If I refinished it it would dissapear. I don't think too many people would shy away with a reduced price.

 

[reskite]

You drilled for the pin diagonally down beneath the tang so it reinforces the crack but is not visible with the barrel/breech assembly installed?

 

[nkbj]

Yeah, major repair from the camming action of the barrel against the stock. Every time the gun was fired it was like a karate chop whacking it at its weakest point (cross grain as well as the thinnest location).


The crack seam was jacked open, filled with glue, the seam compressed and the screw epoxied in. And after the epoxy was all set up the screw was finished flush with the wood. Between moving across the continent and being out of town for years I'm just now fixing to do this project, an off hand target rifle, .54 caliber 48" twist.

 

[Winchester97]

You drilled for the pin diagonally down beneath the tang so it reinforces the crack but is not visible with the barrel/breech assembly installed?

On mine, I used multiple toothpicks under the tang drilled in diagonally into the cracked area, and up through the trigger plate area into the lock mortice. Forgot, but actually drilled a couple in through the lock srew hole where they could be covered by the brass screw washer on the left. I glued and clamped the crack first, after it dried did the pins.

 

[reskite]

This is great information. I was thinking about making the pins from brass, but toothpicks or bamboo BBQ skewers would be better, most likely. Give the glue some thing easier to stick to.

 

[Winchester97]

Bamboo skewers would definantly be even better, they would be stronger than what I used. Just be careful and visualize what your drilling to, as well as depth so the bit doesnt come out where you dont want it. Mine has held for years, never moved. Best of luck!

 

[EC121]

That crack also happens from putting too much pressure on the ramrod when loading. With the lock, triggers, tang, ramrod hole, and barrel inlets there isn't much wood in that area. If you try to climb the ramrod when loading, the stock flexes along the grain right there and cracks. Also cranking down on the lock screw will stress the wood along the grain in that area and promote cracking.

 

[user 48679]

Any repaired crack will be invisible is you first drill a hole under the buttplate to obtain some sawdust from the stock to mix into the adhesive just before filling the crack.

I apply a layer of masking tape along both sides of the crack, then coat the tape strips with wax, to protect the stock finish.

 

[toot]

I had a TC Hawken with a similar crack. I just drilled and pinned it from under the tang, and from up through the trigger plate after removing the trigger. Then I forced wood glue into every part of the crack and clamped it. Nearly invisible with original finish. If I refinished it it would dissapear. I don't think too many people would shy away with a reduced price.

go to the hardware store and get a furniture wax crayon, rub it into it and, VIOLA!! done.

 

[Byrd]

All good advice given! I've used the bamboo chopsticks to repair cracks similar to that but used Brownells Acra Glas epoxy instead of wood glue. After it's done I use the epoxy to bed the barrel tang and a couple inches up the channel. That'll stop it.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I would use brazing rod with epoxy that I thread put in from the top at 90 degrees to the crack. It will show but, to me, that is only telling a part of the life of the rifle.

 

[stewart.leach]

When faced with such a crack I bought a length of "all thread" brass or bronze rod, drilled an undersize hole, pushed epoxy into the hole, installed the threaded rod using an eggbeater manual drill while wood was clamped. After curing the exposed end of the rod was carefully dressed down with files, sanded even with the wood and refinished. Actually looks quite attractive.

Years later I used the same technique on a TC Patriot pistol.

 

[Prairieofthedog]

Very common on TC muzzleloader.Easy fix that will be stronger than original. Use a screw tho and it will suck the crack together.Cut the head off and you are done. I use a brass screw if the gun has brass accents.Does not have to be a very big screw.

 

[gabedard]

I’ve used toothpicks/locktite clamped it.
I did refinish the stock also.
Has held up and is invisible to the naked eye
At least mine