Cracked stock
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Horrified to see my rifle with this damage.jdkerstetter
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Try posting your picture again. This is not all that an uncommon of a problem and there many ways to repair it....many of which leave the wrist stronger than when new.
The best advice can be given when we see how it's cracked. J.D.
The best advice can be given when we see how it's cracked. J.D.
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Be sure and save any wood that come loose as well. It can probably be repaired better than new and almost invisible in lots of cases. MD
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Can we see the other side as well? Does it have it's origin from the lock mortice? MD
jdkerstetter
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You're lucky as it looks like a pretty clean break. Unlucky in the angle....kinda.
As a disclaimer I must point out that this is "key board gun repair" based on a few pictures. There are a couple of options.
One that looks as though it might be viable is to first remove the lock and barrel, as the tang bolt is likely securing the front of the crack and see what's hiding in there. Wax the stock to protect the finish as much as possible. Spread the crack as far as you dare (you may want to get a helper for this), you can use wedges made from tongue depressors or popsicle sticks to hold it open. Get as much yellow wood glue in there as it will hold then clamp the wrist by wrapping it tightly with surgical hose/tubing.
I can't tell how that thumb piece is retained....probably with pins counter sunk and filed flush? If I thought it needed more security I might remove the it in order to run a screw or bolt through the wrist (after gluing). The tang bolt will hold the forward end together after the barrel is reinstalled.
Others will have some other ideas. Don't do anything rash of course.
Who built your rifle? Good luck, J.D.
As a disclaimer I must point out that this is "key board gun repair" based on a few pictures. There are a couple of options.
One that looks as though it might be viable is to first remove the lock and barrel, as the tang bolt is likely securing the front of the crack and see what's hiding in there. Wax the stock to protect the finish as much as possible. Spread the crack as far as you dare (you may want to get a helper for this), you can use wedges made from tongue depressors or popsicle sticks to hold it open. Get as much yellow wood glue in there as it will hold then clamp the wrist by wrapping it tightly with surgical hose/tubing.
I can't tell how that thumb piece is retained....probably with pins counter sunk and filed flush? If I thought it needed more security I might remove the it in order to run a screw or bolt through the wrist (after gluing). The tang bolt will hold the forward end together after the barrel is reinstalled.
Others will have some other ideas. Don't do anything rash of course.
Who built your rifle? Good luck, J.D.
54ball
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Note, J.D. said yellow wood glue, not epoxy,not Gorilla glue, liquid nails, accraglass or bedding compound but a good quality wood glue.
As J.D. says again this is keyboard gun repair. As nice as that rifle appears you may want to find someone to professionally repair it.
Keep in mind here though, you need to find someone experienced in real restoration; the local smith may or may not be able to help. Most likely it's beyond them, seek an expert if you go that route.
54ball
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If you decide to wood glue it you may need to get a 3cc or 10cc syringe and 18gauge or so needle to inject glue into the center of the break once you have it opened up.
Go steady and get a few needles as as once the glue sets in that needle you're done.
Being in Texas you should be able to find that stuff at the local farm store, for injecting cattle.
Go steady and get a few needles as as once the glue sets in that needle you're done.
Being in Texas you should be able to find that stuff at the local farm store, for injecting cattle.
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I see it was cracked from pressure from the bottom not from the lock plate wedging.
Looks like all the wood is still present and that's a good thing.
Your going to have to open the crack up in a controlled manor supported the rest of the stock so it will not migrate any farther on the other end. I would leave the barrel in and remove the lock as this will help support the crack from migrating. I'd use heavy rubber bands made from tire inner tubes to do this in a gun cleaning cradle.
You can make a sling that will attach at the muzzle and the other end at the stock heel. Put in a wood stick and twist up the sling cord gradually bending the stock crack open,just enough to get thinned wood glue in. Not watery just thinned a bit.
The inner tubes strips are flat and will not make dents in any soft wood. Then I would use thinned wood glue instead of epoxy forced in with compressed air. When you have forced all the glue in it will take then release the sling so the crack will close back up and wipe it down with a damp cloth,wrap it wax paper or saran wrap and rubber band the cracked end together as tight as you can.
Tomorrow (24 hours) you can remove the bands.
I then would remove the trigger guard and drill some holes vertically being careful not to bore through and push some wood glue covered 1/8 inch dowel pins with spirals cut in them up into the piece above the cracked area. This will pull the wood together even more securely either side of the crack and reinforce it. It will be invisible under the trigger guard.
Scrape the glue seam lightly to flush it out and sand down , apply oil and refill pores.
I think you will barely be able to tell it if your careful. MD
Looks like all the wood is still present and that's a good thing.
Your going to have to open the crack up in a controlled manor supported the rest of the stock so it will not migrate any farther on the other end. I would leave the barrel in and remove the lock as this will help support the crack from migrating. I'd use heavy rubber bands made from tire inner tubes to do this in a gun cleaning cradle.
You can make a sling that will attach at the muzzle and the other end at the stock heel. Put in a wood stick and twist up the sling cord gradually bending the stock crack open,just enough to get thinned wood glue in. Not watery just thinned a bit.
The inner tubes strips are flat and will not make dents in any soft wood. Then I would use thinned wood glue instead of epoxy forced in with compressed air. When you have forced all the glue in it will take then release the sling so the crack will close back up and wipe it down with a damp cloth,wrap it wax paper or saran wrap and rubber band the cracked end together as tight as you can.
Tomorrow (24 hours) you can remove the bands.
I then would remove the trigger guard and drill some holes vertically being careful not to bore through and push some wood glue covered 1/8 inch dowel pins with spirals cut in them up into the piece above the cracked area. This will pull the wood together even more securely either side of the crack and reinforce it. It will be invisible under the trigger guard.
Scrape the glue seam lightly to flush it out and sand down , apply oil and refill pores.
I think you will barely be able to tell it if your careful. MD
jdkerstetter
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In my opinion the crack is too high for dowels inserted from the bottom to have any benefit....plus you would see them under the grip rail.
That's why I suggested going down through the area under the thumb piece with a screw or bolt, effectively clamping the stock together....if you feel you need a mechanical means of securing it all. Likely I would as this crack appears to be following the grain and there may be a future risk of another crack.
....just :2 ! Good luck, J.D.
That's why I suggested going down through the area under the thumb piece with a screw or bolt, effectively clamping the stock together....if you feel you need a mechanical means of securing it all. Likely I would as this crack appears to be following the grain and there may be a future risk of another crack.
....just :2 ! Good luck, J.D.
sleeperNY
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I had to do this very same repair last summer. My son broke the rifle I gave him for his 18th birthday.
I could not use wood glue because my son had tried to fix it with Gorilla glue and it didn't work. I used accraglass and after it hardened I also drilled down from the back of the barrel tang to just in front of the rear trigger guard pin and fitted a brass 1/4 threaded rod in again using accraglass.
It worked out great and he used it hunting last season with no problems. Good luck,that is a great looking rifle.
Jim
I could not use wood glue because my son had tried to fix it with Gorilla glue and it didn't work. I used accraglass and after it hardened I also drilled down from the back of the barrel tang to just in front of the rear trigger guard pin and fitted a brass 1/4 threaded rod in again using accraglass.
Jim
jdkerstetter
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I remember your post. Normally I too would go in from the front through the barrel bolster or tang area and drill back and down and secure with a rod in a case like this.
In Rick's case it just appears too high to do the repair this way. Again, unless the gun is examined first hand, all options can not be properly thought out.
Enjoy, J.D.
In Rick's case it just appears too high to do the repair this way. Again, unless the gun is examined first hand, all options can not be properly thought out.
Enjoy, J.D.
The crack runs to the lock mortice. The tang screw which screws into the trigger group holds the stock together and prevented any travel of the crack. I don't think I will remove that unless it seems advisable. Glue and wrap the crack seems to be a good plan, but a dowel from the lower part under the trigger group might be a good plan. I really appreciate all the suggestions.
Newhunter, Whatever you might have to do, I think first you have to remove all the hardware (furniture) from that area to see just what is still holding it all together. Once you see that you might have a better idea how to proceed. Appears to be a very nice gun, too bad. But take heart, it can be fixed, and depending on how well the fix is done, it will be stronger and near invisible. Best of luck to you.
Robby
Robby
jdkerstetter
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I'd remove the barrel if for no other reason than to be able to spread the break to work glue into it. As Robby indicated, you need to know exactly what's going on here.
I would want to remove as little original wood as necessary, but use a dowel if you like...or a piece of all-thread. If you take that route I suggest you wait until you have the break repaired before doing it. Drilling before the break is repaired and completely closed up is a bad idea as you may end up missaligned.
Travis made a good suggestion with the syringe and needle. Just make sure the gap is open enough to slide the needle in. Don't force it or you will end up with little holes in your repair.
Take your time with this and go slow....as Robby said, it looks like a nice gun.
Good luck, J.D.
I would want to remove as little original wood as necessary, but use a dowel if you like...or a piece of all-thread. If you take that route I suggest you wait until you have the break repaired before doing it. Drilling before the break is repaired and completely closed up is a bad idea as you may end up missaligned.
Travis made a good suggestion with the syringe and needle. Just make sure the gap is open enough to slide the needle in. Don't force it or you will end up with little holes in your repair.
Take your time with this and go slow....as Robby said, it looks like a nice gun.
Good luck, J.D.
My recommendation would be to have it repaired by a professional who is good at that.
From what I can see it is a nice looking gun, have it fixed right.
I don’t mean to offend but it doesn’t look like the gun to learn on.
William Alexander
From what I can see it is a nice looking gun, have it fixed right.
I don’t mean to offend but it doesn’t look like the gun to learn on.
William Alexander
