Cross pinning ramrod tip

[kh0456]

I just finished making my first ramrod which isn't as easy as I thought..... :wink: after this one, the next will be a bit easier.
I bought the blank and tip from TOW.
Anyway to my question.... What do you use for the pin? I thought of a piece of a paper clip cut and glued in then filed?

Thanks!

 

[Grimord]

I use brass wire cut off and filed flush. Brass is softer that the barrel steel and less likely to scratch the bore should it somehow work its way out.

 

[Roy]

I use mild steel or brass.. I counter sink and peen the ends over, and file flush. Never ever had anyone tell me that they come out.

 

[Pete G]

I use a 3p finishing nail. It is soft enough to rivet into the countersink and is plenty strong enough.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I use brazing rod or copper wire. Brazing rod is surprisingly hard to peen, I really prefer copper wire.

 

[Spikebuck]

I have used both small finish nails and 14 GA copper electrical wire sanded just a bit smaller. I think I prefer the small finish nails because they already have a head on one end to stop before going into the hole and peens down very nicely into the countersink, whereas the soft copper wants to bend vs peen down. Probably just my bad technique!

 

[ZUG]

I use the 1/16" brazing rod because I have it and yes it is harder to peen then soft brass but do-able.

 

[matt denison]

I use the 1/16" brazing rod because I have it and yes it is harder to peen then soft brass but do-able.

Anneal the brass rod (or steel) before you use it for a pin. Always countersink the hole on both ends so the pin can not fall out. It will peen very easily. Lightly file the ends smooth with a fine tooth file or they might catch patches (and look ugly) I just did three more of them this morning.

 

[Birddog6]

IF you are going to glue a Brass or steel tip on.........

Slightly countersilk the hole in a brass RR tip. I don't like a 90 degree cut there, I want a beveled cut as it is stronger at this exact area.

Turn the end of the RR down by lathe, turning in a drill, rasp, careful whittling, etc. to fit into the RR tip.

Take some emery paper & roll up about a 11.5" square of it & put it in the tip & turn it & sand the inside of the tip. This cleans out the tip of any oils & opens the pores of the metal.

Cut a small 5/16" piece of cardboard like on the carton of something you bought at the store, take a punch & push that lil dot of cardboard down into the RR tip, IF it has a hole all the way thru. Some do, some don't. If hole doesn't go all the way thru, skip this step.

Put some epoxy or dyed brown Accraglass on the RR tip & smear it around good on the area to be glued, put just a little around the RR tip hole, push the RR into the tip & insure you press it all the way down forcing the excess glue out. Wipe off the excess glue & stand it up in the corner Tip Down.

12 hrs later, take a center punch & punch the brass tip about 1/4" from where the wood rod joins the bass.

Take a .067 drill bit & drill straight thru the tip.

Take a countersink bit or a 3/16" bit & slightly bevel the hole on each side of the tip.

Take a #3 finish nail & tap it in til the head is started into the beveled hole.

Cut off the excess of the nail on the other side.
File off the nail end you cut til you have about 1/16" sticking out.

Take a very small ball peen hammer or a gravers hammer & holding the nail head down on the back of the vise, peen the protruding nail & fill the beveled hole.

Turn it over & file 1/2 of the head off the nail, then peen it down filling the beveled hole.
Open the vice to about 1/4" gap in jaws.

Lay the RR & tip there & take a metal file & file the peened nail & brass flush, filing long ways parallel with the RR, turn it over & do same & you can now sand it with some 200 grit autobody paper & ready to stain the rod.

This tip Will Not.... pull off. You may break or twist the RR in two doing something, but the tip is not coming off......

Keith Lisle

 

[Birddog6]

Supposed to say 1.5" piece of sand paper or emery cloth to sand inside the RR top.

Keith Lisle

 

[Col. Batguano]

Though it isn't a real big point, try to make sure you drill your hole across the grain of the RR if you can.

 

[bpd303]

I use the finishing nails too.

 

[kh0456]

Thanks for all the help! Wasn't really sure how to go about doing this.

 

[Zonie]

I use 1/16 diameter brass rod available at Ace Hardware or hobby shops. It should be cut to a length that is 1/32 to 1/16" longer than the diameter of the metal end.

I use a 1/16" drill bit to drill the hole and my pocket knife to form the slight countersink at each end of the hole.

After lightly tapping the ends of the cross pin to fill the countersunk holes I file the rest of the protruding ends flush with the ramrod tip.

When done right, you will just barely be able to see the ends of the pin.

 

[kh0456]

Thank much! Great info! I appreciate it.

 

[Vaino]

I use the straight lengths of large paper clips for pinning. They're approx. .050 dia. Ctsk both ends of the hole in the RR tip and peen the ends of the pin and file flush.

To ensure that the epoxy doesn't go into the tapped hole. a lockbolt w/ the end waxed is screwed in......Fred

 

[lowcsp]

I use the copper ground wire out of a 12/2 electric wire countersink and peen over I also use this on my forged butt plates and trigger guards

 

[Zonie]

Copper is neat to use.

It is traditional and its slightly different color can add a bit of interest to what otherwise is a rather plain part.

 

[rusty]

Thank you.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Ive used 1/16th steel hinge wire, and 1/16th inch brass rod. The brass is much easier to peen over but IMO the steel rod looks better with its contrasting color. I dont counter sink and have never had a pin come out.