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to keep the priming in the caps put a drop of Duco cement in some acetone mix fast and eye drop onto mixture. no more priming powder all over the container.
something else that helps is put the inside of the can aluminum up in the die.
something coated on the outside of the cans makes the primall slide out.
 
Johnny Tremain said:
Looked for caps for two weeks. Could not pay some of the stupid prices around.
Got a cap maker. Trying to get the hang of it. Had to buy a 12 pack of pop just so I had some alumium.
It seems the fine cooper I have for gas checks does not work in the machine.
one of these
https://22lrreloader.com/products/11-percussion-cap-makertwo of these
https://22lrreloader.com/products/prime-all-repriming-compoundA 'C' note down range
Click to expand...
Got to be thin aluminum. Soda can thin. And it will take a bit of practice. You'll get a few bad ones until you get the hang of it.
 
Am I the only one in shock that there is a muzzleloader supplies shortage? just un real.

Perhaps a flintlock soon… Gosh my CVA Electra isn’t so bad now.
 
When mixing up the primer components from 22sharpshooter.com How much do you mix up at a time? And if you mix up more than you will immediately use, how do you store the extra? Mixing the minute amounts shown is difficult and time consuming.
thanks
 
Cptesco said:
When mixing up the primer components from 22sharpshooter.com How much do you mix up at a time? And if you mix up more than you will immediately use, how do you store the extra? Mixing the minute amounts shown is difficult and time consuming.
thanks
Click to expand...
I'm only mixing two of the batch amounts as listed in the directions at a time. What it says on the package for the scoops. It is very sensitive material, so you really might not want a large batch sitting around. It can be stored in what you mix it in. I mix mine in a glass shot glass with a piece of aluminum over it.
 
Wolfman0125 said:
I don’t know why so expensive? I bought my tool and dye from 22 sharpshooter for $49.95 and primer compound for $19.95. I add 1/10 ratio of aluminum powder and it shoots a flame 6 inches long. I do the same with about 6-8 German roll caps sealed with ducco cement and acetone and it doesn’t leave that orange residue like the primer compound.
Click to expand...
Roll my own Powder & caps as well. For Pyro ,Muzzleloader & BP Cannon
 
Cptesco said:
When mixing up the primer components from 22sharpshooter.com How much do you mix up at a time? And if you mix up more than you will immediately use, how do you store the extra? Mixing the minute amounts shown is difficult and time consuming.
thanks
Click to expand...

Be advised -- I'm not an expert -- just an amateur with some tolerance for risk.

I've only done max 2 batches at a time. Yes, it's time consuming. But it's for safety reasons. These mixes aren't like black powder -- consider them highly unstable. I believe the oxidizer in the kit is Pot Chlorate. I would be very relieved to find out otherwise. Chlorate/sulfur has been known to spontaneously ignite. Pyrotechnics professionals and hobbyists went to perchlorate mixes because of the accidents and risks involved with chlorates. So keep the batches very small.

Wearing eye protection is a must. Keep your container pointed away from your face. Wear thick leather gloves if you want an additional layer of protection as you stir.

I never have much left over since I keep my batches so small. But I have used a small, soft, plastic container with a lid & kept in a drawer with no other flammables in it. Or you can leave it open, so long as you're not using an angle grinder or otherwise throwing sparks around (done that before). Don't use sealed glass or harder plastics (avoids shrapnel). Chlorates can absorb moisture faster than black powder, as I understand it. So watch the humidity levels. Don't store with your black powder or subs -- keep them separate.
 
Nuthatch said:
Be advised -- I'm not an expert -- just an amateur with some tolerance for risk.

I've only done max 2 batches at a time. Yes, it's time consuming. But it's for safety reasons. These mixes aren't like black powder -- consider them highly unstable. I believe the oxidizer in the kit is Pot Chlorate. I would be very relieved to find out otherwise. Chlorate/sulfur has been known to spontaneously ignite. Pyrotechnics professionals and hobbyists went to perchlorate mixes because of the accidents and risks involved with chlorates. So keep the batches very small.

Wearing eye protection is a must. Keep your container pointed away from your face. Wear thick leather gloves if you want an additional layer of protection as you stir.

I never have much left over since I keep my batches so small. But I have used a small, soft, plastic container with a lid & kept in a drawer with no other flammables in it. Or you can leave it open, so long as you're not using an angle grinder or otherwise throwing sparks around (done that before). Don't use sealed glass or harder plastics (avoids shrapnel). Chlorates can absorb moisture faster than black powder, as I understand it. So watch the humidity levels. Don't store with your black powder or subs -- keep them separate.
Click to expand...
It is pot chlor. It does get testy. You should never mix in plastic at all. I use shot glass that has high heat temper. Everything i use is antistatic. I use a bit of aluminum to cover the glass when I finish a set. I'll change the mix to perchlorate once done with what I have as it will make a better product.
 
Wolfman0125 said:
I don’t know why so expensive? I bought my tool and dye from 22 sharpshooter for $49.95 and primer compound for $19.95. I add 1/10 ratio of aluminum powder and it shoots a flame 6 inches long. I do the same with about 6-8 German roll caps sealed with ducco cement and acetone and it doesn’t leave that orange residue like the primer compound.
Click to expand...
When they first started offering the 22 reloader kit if I’m not mistaken it was geared towards the survivalist. Who would otherwise reload 22. The no 10 and 11 cap mandrel came second and yes they are very sensitive to the chemical cracking especially with the hard aluminum cans. Again with the survivalist in mind; you can find cans almost anywhere. I never got around to it but did look it up mcmaster sells soft copper thinking they’d be less sensitive to cracking and a softer crimped primer. They get you shooting i don’t think it’s intent is to mimic factory primers. If you’re not happy with them send it back. I think they are worth the $40. They are not my go to primers but I guess could be if I had nothing else.
 

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