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Cut Flints?

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Canuck Bob

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I appreciate that this forum is focused on traditional muzzleloaders but I was hoping for a general lesson on handling cut flints. I have no desire to insult the traditionalists its just that this site is by far the best forum for a guy who wants to learn flintlock and how to make and do the things for a hobby rather than buy stuff for a scoped pseudo centerfire rifle poorly disguised as a muzzleloader. I'll duck and cover now!!!

I'm starting as a greenhorn with a Lyman Deerstalker lefty flinter. Not a period weapon but its a flint side lock and will see only BP and PBalls to get started. I've also decided the bore will never see plastic on my watch, cotton and lead only. The gun came with a cut flint and it sparks very well. I dressed it with a diamond hone and I'm comfortable with the technology already.

Could those with experience with the cut flints please give me some pointers and such for using these things.

Pierce cherts and English flints are on the way soon and I will learn to use them properly.

In many ways the cut flints don't look out of place on the Deerstalker. I like to think of the rifle as the logical evolution of a flintlock hunting weapon built with modern technology and machinery within a global marketplace. My line in the sand is when people try to make these production weapons into something they are not meant to be. No fibre optic sights or scopes but peeps are ok with me. Lead bullets but not jacketed bullets.

I realize many want to hunt with these rifles and seek out sophisticated projectiles and optics for legitimate reasons. It just seems we are forcing the weapon into a mold best supplied by a .444 Marlin or Whiz Bang barrel burner. The lure of my flintlock is the forcing of me into the mold dictated by my rifle and our shared heritage.

Sorry for the sermon but there is so much to think about that is complex regarding our weapons. My grandfather once told me of the evil thing called a machine gun he first experienced in France. His sons talked about the evil thing called a Tiger tank. Our weapons shape us as much as we shape them.
 
I never had much luck with cut flints. In the old days they were made of such hard stone that they would wear out the frizzen on cheaper made case hardened frizzens. I found they did not last as long as chipped flints but back then I didn't catch on to the diamond hone method of sharpening. They didn't knapp worth a darn.

Using a diamond hone they should work alright for you. I do think you will like the knapped flints better when you get them.

As far as projectiles go, I have always used a patched round ball and never had cause to regret it in hunting or target shooting. I tried REAL bullets early on but they never grouped well in the 1:66 deep rifled barrel I was using at the time so didn't bother with them after that.
 
I never had the cut flints last, and once they are dull unless you have a diamond hone they a trash. Some of the ones I used lasted only 10 shots or so.
 
Cut flints will work fine if you re-shape them and sharpen them as needed with a diamond stone(shown below). Overall that can be a pain if you don't have the right diamond stone. I would stick with American or English flints, at the same time don't throw away any cut ones that you already have, as they can be made to work quite well..... :thumbsup:
german.jpg
 
Before I retired I was a tool grinder with access to all types of diamond grinding wheels and I never did find a way of grinding cut flints that would hold up for more than twenty or so shots. But then I still cann't knap flints either which is why I hope to get a wheellock buit in the near future.Percussion caps are getting ridiculas in price.
 
All my Thompson Center Hawkens shoot with them but I, like all the others, think you will like real flints much better. My last, real, Tom Fuller flint got me over 100 shots! They readily go over 30 to 50 shots and once in awhile you get a really good one.
I find the cut flints harder to use and they seem to break or chip easily. But they work.
On the other stuff you mentioned, everyone has a "level" of tradition and what ever you are satified with should be your own business. I've done a lot of testing this part year and I know what works best for me. I tend to stick with that.
 
:surrender:

Okay now----I have been huntin with a flintlock for around 30 years. During that time, everything I learned was trail and error. I thought I had everything down pat with these smokesticks and I have killed a pile of deer to prove it. However, when I read this thread about how many shots you get out of one flint, 50 to 100, man I got be doing something wrong. I am lucky if I get ten out of a flint. I have tried cut and knapped and had the same results. I always thought it was a wonder that the Indians didn't win.

Now, I am an old Buck, but could use some advice on what I am doing wrong. Could someone out there talk me through this from the mounting of the flint to the place where I can get one of them thar sharpin stones ya all talk bout.

Big Ralph :wink:
 
I use a diamond file from wallmarts,looks like a pencil. Cost about 7.00. Has a point on one end and flat on other end. Can change it either way. Has a lock nut, also has a grove to sharpen fish hooks. The pointy end is nice to work on inside of locks. Dilly
 
A lapping bed, with a wet silicon carbide slurry will cut English flint or "cut flints" No problem.
Used one a work to trim off the "humps"
I have used BLACK ARKANSAS Stone as a flint sub.
It works great for a couple of shots, but then needs to be dressed. If you live in the Hot Springs area of Arkansas, you can find that stuff :grin:
If not,You are better off buying Missouri chert from Mr Pierce. JMHO
 
Dilly, I am sure those 50+ shots on a flint include knapping tho I have gone 20+ before knapping on some Tom Fuller flints. Just received some of Rich Pierce's product and headed to dry fire to see what they look like.

That said, my small Siler was tweaked by one of the best and I believe geometry to be the most important part of flint life.

Merry Christmas,

TC
 
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